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post #31 of 41 (permalink) Old 01-04-2013, 02:12 PM
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Fivesay- you and RJ have convinced me to try the std. rectangular mount, at least on the easy to access driver's side first to see if vibration issue improves
Yes, the 4 poly washers currently on the rear trans. mount are still plenty loose- can be rotated with a fingertip.
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post #32 of 41 (permalink) Old 01-04-2013, 02:57 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Alfar7 View Post
See post Ed (alfaparticle) has posted on the BB re solid clutch disk. His is one of my aluminum center ones that is as light as they get.

You will not notice any difference other than cleaner releases and engagement which is a major benefit to the syncros.

most important thing you can do at the trans mount is use more of the stock rubber side washers to keep the trans centered.

Since you are building a street car avoid "reinforced" mounts anywhere other than the right side motor mount which is the heavily loaded one. A simple "half cup" mod welded to the steel "motor" part of the mount will help with compression issues under hard acceleration and prevent sagging.

I`ll make you one if you want. Are you using round or rectanglular rubber mounts?

I`ll build one and post a pic. Any one can build these things.
Thanks RJ

My new mounts haven't come in yet--the ones on it now are rectangular--The pic was rectangular (I ordered normal ones from Spruell). I assume right side is passenger side under the carbs--

I have a mig welder and crude skills--I should be able to make one if I see what it looks like.

Thanks

Frank Livesay Huntsville, AL
Green Alfa - 68 Canadian 1750 Spider Veloce (driver)
White Alfa - 68 Euro 1750 GTV (needs a refresh)
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post #33 of 41 (permalink) Old 01-05-2013, 11:31 AM
Richard Jemison
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Reinforced motormount for Street

Pics of it are below. I built it for the std round motor mount rubber.
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Richard Jemison
RJR Racing

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post #34 of 41 (permalink) Old 01-06-2013, 10:18 AM
Richard Jemison
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Reinforced mounts on Race Car

Here are pics of my reinforced mounts on the race car.
Both are 360 wraps of sheet metal welded to the engine mount.
The right side (loaded) is about 70% the length of the rubber section.
The left side is 1 inch.

Easy to make yourself.
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RJR Racing

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post #35 of 41 (permalink) Old 01-21-2013, 05:35 PM Thread Starter
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Cleaned the 68 tranny up today to put it on the shelf and found some numbers. What does the 10/41 mean?
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Frank Livesay Huntsville, AL
Green Alfa - 68 Canadian 1750 Spider Veloce (driver)
White Alfa - 68 Euro 1750 GTV (needs a refresh)
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post #36 of 41 (permalink) Old 01-21-2013, 06:17 PM
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Quote:
What does the 10/41 mean?
Looks like the axle ratio. Maybe it reflects the speedometer drive gears inside the box?

Ed Prytherch
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post #37 of 41 (permalink) Old 01-21-2013, 07:07 PM Thread Starter
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Looks like the axle ratio. Maybe it reflects the speedometer drive gears inside the box?
That's what I was thinking--are ratios stamped on a 105 trannys? The 2 liter RJ built has the first number but no ratio stamped.

Frank Livesay Huntsville, AL
Green Alfa - 68 Canadian 1750 Spider Veloce (driver)
White Alfa - 68 Euro 1750 GTV (needs a refresh)
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post #38 of 41 (permalink) Old 01-22-2013, 06:00 AM
Richard Jemison
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Gearbox #s

Here`s the email I sent him re: #s

Quote:
Not likely if it was a `68. 4.10 gearsets in 105 cars started over here with the 2 liter in 1981.

Pull the speedometer sender and the output flange and count the teeth.
A 4.10 will have 6 teeth (count from side) and 13 on the sender.
The 4.56 will have 9 and 21.
Rj

Richard Jemison
RJR Racing

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post #39 of 41 (permalink) Old 01-22-2013, 04:53 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
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Here`s the email I sent him re: #s
Yeah--I'll have to wait until the weekend to pull the sender--and not sure how to pull the output flange. I'm out of town until Friday night. I did pull the senders from the 68 and the 2L you built but didn't count the teeth--duh--but the 2L gear was larger but I can't find where I wrote it down. I think a couple of mms larger

Frank Livesay Huntsville, AL
Green Alfa - 68 Canadian 1750 Spider Veloce (driver)
White Alfa - 68 Euro 1750 GTV (needs a refresh)
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post #40 of 41 (permalink) Old 02-18-2013, 02:25 PM
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Originally Posted by flivesay View Post
I tried to count revs by myself to determine ratio but apparently can't multitask as well I use to be able too--I lose count on one end or the other .
You can check that a lot easier. Mark the input and output shaft in a given position. Turn the otuput shaft in 5th gear. If the markings line up again perfectly after 7 revolutions of the output shaft you have the 0,860 5th gear (unlikely) - the input shaft will have turned 6 times at that point. If the marks line up after 19 revolutions you have the 0,791 and the input shaft will have turned 15 times at that point.

cheers
Sig

Last edited by Sig; 02-18-2013 at 02:35 PM.
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post #41 of 41 (permalink) Old 03-23-2013, 04:40 PM Thread Starter
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Finally got the spider back on the road today. I have swapped a tranny in a day before--not this time. Travel and work uses up all the good time. The 'While I'm in there" syndrome also played a large part as I had not had this engine out since I've had it.

cleaned up engine, new oil sender, new cam cover nut gaskets, all new coolant hoses,new regular motor mounts, new thermostat (old one didn't fully close). added safety hood release cable to existing one--didn't see anything wrong with the original but--

While it was out, cleaned the engine bay, replaced all the original firewall grommets, rebushed and cleaned up the throttle linkage, replaced all the hood bumpers, degreased the tunnel, repaired any rust with the POR process rebushed the exhaust/tranny bracket.

Radiator to the shop and had the lower shroud studs replaced and I painted with eastwood radiator paint. Didn't leak before, doesn't leak now

RJ's tranny with new synchros and dogs, lightened gears and a clutch disc from clutchnet with no springs--extremely light. Standard tranny mount RJ installed with 2 new standard side bushings and 2 new poly bushings--should keep the rear of the tranny centered--not pinched. 1 1/2 qts of redline 75-90ns

Ran through the gearbox without wheels while on the jackstands. Shifter would go to the right spot but only 5th would turn the wheels. Shut it down, had a glass of red and a cigar and tried again. This time all the gears worked. Ran it long enough to spread the gear oil around. I believe the shift rods were bumped when the engine/tranny was set in in--must have gotten something out of whack with the shifters. I was under the car directing from there but my helper said something about it when we were wrestling it in but I was busy.

Buttoned it up, fired it up and noticed my fispa glass bowl was leaking. Gasket was hard as steel and I disturbed it when I put in a new filter. 4 days and I had another from Classic Alfa. Got that installed last night and had help from my daughter in putting the hood/bonnet back on. Shut it and it wouldn't open. One of an Alfa owners worst fear--can't get the hood open--thoughts of holes drilled in the hood etc. Played around with it a little last night and gave up. Lever pulled the cable and a little pop would occur at the latch and the cable didn't return by spring power until you pushed down on the hood. Safety release had no effect. This morning rigged a 1/4 rope with a bowline loop and hooked the release lever and was able to pull the lever while I was able to press down on the hood at the latch. 30 minutes or so and it popped open. Reset the hood alignment with the hinge mountings and the new bumbers. Inspected the latch mechanism and only one of the 2 springs were in the latch--or there was a half of the spring on one side. I guess with the hood not aligned right and the bumpers out of whack and one of the springs broken, the latch was hung. Found a perfect 77 hood in the corner of the shop (I know somebody needs this--I don't anymore) and swapped the catch. Hood release now works perfectly.

Took it for a spin, filled up on hi-test non ethanol fuel and it purrs like a kitten. The tranny feels absolutely right--no notice of a crunch on upshifts or downshifts. I'm going to have to get used to having a synchro for first. The speedometer works perfectly--I mean it reads the same as my garmin--to a single mph--I have never had an alfa speedometer read that good. I did replace the tach and speedometer cables while I was in there.

Bottom line is the green spider is ready for spring. While this refresh was going on, I did notice I have a bastardized exhaust system. I''l fix it next winter--new downpipe and expansion chamber--no center muffler and new tail pipe
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Frank Livesay Huntsville, AL
Green Alfa - 68 Canadian 1750 Spider Veloce (driver)
White Alfa - 68 Euro 1750 GTV (needs a refresh)
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