cylinder head Torque settings and installation - Alfa Romeo Bulletin Board & Forums
 
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post #1 of 9 (permalink) Old 09-09-2019, 07:44 PM Thread Starter
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cylinder head Torque settings and installation

I am sure this was discussed many times before, but i am confused about the current thinking for the torque specifications for a 2 liter nord engine.
The alfa tech bulletin of 5/9/88 states :

-Tighten progressively in proper sequence ( fig -1) with washers, nuts and threads lubriucatred)
1750 FOUR CYLINDER ENGINE 53 ft. lb. (72 Nm; 7.2 Kgm)

2000 FOUR CYLINDER ENGINE 58 ft.lb. ( 78 Nm;7.9 Kgm)

WARM UP ENGINE, WITHOUT SLACKENING , INCREASE TORQUE TO:

1750: 56 FT. LB. ( 75 NM, 7.6 KGM) 2000 61 ft. lb. ( 82 Nm; 8.4 Kgm)

AFTER ENINE HAS BEEN RUN BETWEEN 1250 & 1500 MILES PROCEED AS FOLLOWS:


- With engine cols , loosed nuts one at a time, lubricate and retroque to the following Values (Use sequence fig 1)

1750 : 58 ft. lb, (77Nm; 8 Kgm)
2000 65 ft. lb. ( 88.5 Nm; 9 Kgm)
However,

The Spruell web site states:
HISTORY: Excessive torque spec in late model shop manual. As an Alfa dealer we had warranty problems with water and oil leaking out the head gaskets. At one point both water and oil leaked down sides of the block on new cars. Alfa's first attempt at a cure was to increase the torque on the head from 60.7-61.4 ft to 63-65 hot. We replaced hundreds of factory gaskets under warranty, using viton o rings for the oil problem and copper coat sealer for the water leaks. We continued using the old torque specs and found that 56 cold and 60 hot was sufficient for both street and race. Any torque on the head bolts tends to distort the liners somewhat, so exceeding 60 pounds is inviting problems. We verified this using a torque plate and measuring with a dial bore gage.

So which is correct??


Other related questions:
2)Lubricate the head nuts with oil or anti seize?

3) Clean off the top of the cylinders when the head is off ? Or leave things alone? ( one post suggested using cotton string around the top of the cylinder to prevent carbon form getting into the rings)
There are warnings stating do not rotate the engine one the top chain is off as the timing will be lost . This I do not understand, how do you clean all the cylinder tops without rotating the engine.?? the crank pulley will show TDC and the crank can be returned to this position and the chain centered as long as it was held by wires ( when the connecting link was removed). What am i missing here?

Thanks for opinions on these issues.

Larry Bob
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post #2 of 9 (permalink) Old 09-11-2019, 06:28 AM
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A local longtime engine builder taught me based on the factory bulletins:

1. Cold torque to spec. CL site says 65 for 2000. I didn't look it up anywhere else just now.
2. Retorque when hot slightly tighter, like 3 lbs more.
3. After fully cold, retorque to original figure.
4. Some miles later, 100, 500, whatever, retorque to original again cold.

Use oil or antiseize on threads and washers; I use the silver paste, which Norman Racing uses. If it's good enough for them …

Sure, why not clean off the piston tops, keeping the carbon junk out of the cylinders. On the one hand, the buildup increases compression. On the other, it probably leads to hot spots and preignition.

Andrew

Last edited by Andrew; 09-11-2019 at 07:46 AM.
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post #3 of 9 (permalink) Old 09-11-2019, 07:22 AM
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Jim Steck uses camshaft break in lube on the threads so that is what I used.

Ed Prytherch
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2011 Jaguar XKR

A little government and a little luck are necessary in life, but only a fool trusts either of them. - P.J. O'Rourke
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post #4 of 9 (permalink) Old 09-11-2019, 08:35 AM Thread Starter
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i can use that..... what about torque settings ?
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post #5 of 9 (permalink) Old 09-11-2019, 10:09 AM
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I would go with Andrew's suggestions in post #2.

I have used higher torque settings on high output motors with no ill effects.

Ed Prytherch
79 Spider
76 Suzuki GT500
2011 Jaguar XKR

A little government and a little luck are necessary in life, but only a fool trusts either of them. - P.J. O'Rourke
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post #6 of 9 (permalink) Old 09-11-2019, 05:31 PM
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not to say how accurate one's torque wrench is and the technique to use it.
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post #7 of 9 (permalink) Old 09-11-2019, 07:23 PM
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Quote:
not to say how accurate one's torque wrench is and the technique to use it.
Too right. I have watched racers tightening lug nuts with a torque wrench going way past the click. Some people seem to think that no more torque is applied after the click.

Ed Prytherch
79 Spider
76 Suzuki GT500
2011 Jaguar XKR

A little government and a little luck are necessary in life, but only a fool trusts either of them. - P.J. O'Rourke
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post #8 of 9 (permalink) Old 09-11-2019, 07:32 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by alfaparticle View Post
Too right. I have watched racers tightening lug nuts with a torque wrench going way past the click. Some people seem to think that no more torque is applied after the click.
It still has to be calibrated and pulled right. ... to click it ..unless you just know it is right. 10% off on 60 is 6 pounds.. Pretty much says it all when you are matching specs to the 1-2 lb spec. differential. Most specas are a range to comp for variations and are not absolute. It doesn't take a lab to figure it out. Usually two good wrenches will confirm each other. I've used an old Craftsman that has worked. I'm pretty sure it works close enough for wheel lugs . Engines .. not so sure anymore, but If I need it for that I'll double check witb another brand from a buddy. Every 10 years. Easy .

Last edited by divotandtralee; 09-11-2019 at 07:40 PM.
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post #9 of 9 (permalink) Old 09-11-2019, 08:57 PM
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I have always followed the instructions of the original manual, no problem.

Chris, in love with Alfa from...'68, but it wasn't always reciprocal !
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