Feeding oil through the intake manifold to close leaky valve seats?!!! - Alfa Romeo Bulletin Board & Forums
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post #1 of 8 (permalink) Old 02-08-2017, 05:17 AM Thread Starter
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Feeding oil through the intake manifold to close leaky valve seats?!!!

So boys and girls, more snake oil medicine or is there actual science in here???

After three goes to get the valve clearances just right, buying a leak down test kit, driving for a 1000 kilometers or so, and still coming out with uneven compression (10, 8, 12, 12.5), I resolved myself to accepting that a "head job" was inevitable on my blue demon by spring time... until yesterday's latest suggestion by my newest "buddy with mechanic skills"...

The suggestion is to squirt a quarter of a can into each of the cylinders while revving the engine at about 4000 rpm for 3 - 5 minutes... the logic is that the carbon build-up inside the combustion chamber will find its way to the intake valve seats and close up much of the loose gaps...

Before I burn-up my engine and destroy my hard earned weber 45's, is this snake oil medicine or wicked science that could save me the pain of splicing the head open???
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post #2 of 8 (permalink) Old 02-08-2017, 06:32 AM
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I've heard and seen some folks use ATF to clean sticky valves. So, I see no reason why it wouldn't work on carbon buildup elsewhere. I don't think that oil would be sufficient to aid in the removal of carbon build up.

However, with our cars, the Italian tune up is usually all that is needed to burn off any deposits.
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post #3 of 8 (permalink) Old 02-08-2017, 07:11 AM
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post #4 of 8 (permalink) Old 02-08-2017, 07:21 AM
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Some years ago I posted a process for cleaning built-up combustion chamber, ring and valve build up.
Takes a while and its done with engine not running and requires an oil change and flush after.

Basically it involves filling the chambers through the spark plug hole alternatively with MEK, and WD 40 (from gallon jugs)

Best to do one cyl at a time over 4 days with each cyl at tdc. Typically the fluids will drain out in about 8 hours and you can fill with the other fluid. WD 40 softens the carbon and the MEK will dissolve the muck
Ed (Alfaparticle did this and should be able to give you some tips)

If you haven`t changed valve guides & seals you should attend to such and clean the head off the engine.
Commonly lots of carbon causes sticking rings and power loss & oil consumption.

You should be able to search the BB for the original post.
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post #5 of 8 (permalink) Old 07-14-2017, 01:03 AM
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I use GM Top Engine Cleaner. It is available from most GM Dealers at their parts dept.
After warming the engine up to normal operating temp it is pour or sprayed (it comes in aerosol can as well) into the intake and then the motor is turned off and allowed to sit for about 30 min. You then start it up and any carbon in the combustion chamber is blown out the tail pipe. I've used this product for the fifteen years on all of my vehicles.

The aerosol works great for cleaning semi auto firearms. Spray it in the chamber, barrel and on the bolt, let it sit over night and the gun cleans up very easily.

Aloha,
Mark
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post #6 of 8 (permalink) Old 07-14-2017, 05:38 AM
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Hold on - the original post (from February) was asking about introducing carbon deposits to "fix" leaking valves! Can't imagine such a thing happening.
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post #7 of 8 (permalink) Old 07-14-2017, 06:04 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ghnl View Post
Hold on - the original post (from February) was asking about introducing carbon deposits to "fix" leaking valves! Can't imagine such a thing happening.
Hehehe... I have graduated to dessimating crankshafts since that time...

Sent from my GT-I9500 using Tapatalk
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post #8 of 8 (permalink) Old 07-14-2017, 06:08 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sbadaro View Post
So boys and girls, more snake oil medicine or is there actual science in here???

After three goes to get the valve clearances just right, buying a leak down test kit, driving for a 1000 kilometers or so, and still coming out with uneven compression (10, 8, 12, 12.5), I resolved myself to accepting that a "head job" was inevitable on my blue demon by spring time... until yesterday's latest suggestion by my newest "buddy with mechanic skills"...

The suggestion is to squirt a quarter of a can into each of the cylinders while revving the engine at about 4000 rpm for 3 - 5 minutes... the logic is that the carbon build-up inside the combustion chamber will find its way to the intake valve seats and close up much of the loose gaps...

Before I burn-up my engine and destroy my hard earned weber 45's, is this snake oil medicine or wicked science that could save me the pain of splicing the head open???
With the engine at temp and running,I use distilled water/marvel mystery oil 5:1 ratio in a spray bottle, fine mist for a squirt or 2 per cylinder, slightly working the throttle lever , repeat several times.. .if you disconnect the exhaust header/muffler junction you will see the results are pretty impressive if that is the problem ...used on many race engines....
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Last edited by Tom Frasca; 07-14-2017 at 06:12 AM.
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