The proper setup for hotter cams on a 1600cc engine. - Alfa Romeo Bulletin Board & Forums
 
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post #1 of 9 (permalink) Old 02-16-2019, 08:11 PM Thread Starter
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The proper setup for hotter cams on a 1600cc engine.

Would anyone be able to tell me what the best setup would be on my 1600cc engine. I have a 1967 Giulia sprint gt Veloce and am looking to get slightly more power from engine. So I have just purchased a set of Colombo & Bariani 10.9mm canshafts duration 280, I was told that no modification is needed to the head for these cams, I also installed an electronic distributor. But my question is does my distributor have to be any degrees advanced or back and would I also need to change any of my jets on my Weber DCOE 40/27 carbs?

Help needed,
Thanks,
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post #2 of 9 (permalink) Old 02-17-2019, 01:59 AM
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considering your questions my advice would be to dyno the car. jetting and ignition are set correctly. because yes jetting will need to be different, and timing probably too. best and imho cheapest option will be : dyno the car.
to do what is needed you need to know what you are doing and why. at the dyno shop they will have that knowledge, and the jets to change.
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post #3 of 9 (permalink) Old 02-17-2019, 05:54 AM
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I ran those cams in a couple of 2L motors. The heads do not need to be modified as there is sufficient clearance in the tappet bores. I also used stock springs.
Where you time the cams will change the engine characteristics. I think that Richard Jemison has posted recommendations for these cams.
Ignition advance for maximum power is unlikely to change as a result of swapping cams. I agree with Veep that dyno testing is probably the best way to optimize Weber jetting but installing a wideband AFR such as a Zeitronix ZT2 and data logging WOT runs will most likely get you to the right place. There is a long thread about that.

Ed Prytherch
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76 Suzuki GT500
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A little government and a little luck are necessary in life, but only a fool trusts either of them. - P.J. O'Rourke
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post #4 of 9 (permalink) Old 02-17-2019, 06:01 AM Thread Starter
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I was hoping not to have to go through that process. All the engine components are new in the engine, I was hoping that someone has already gone through this process and would be able to tell me what their setup is and dyno it at a later date if needed.
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post #5 of 9 (permalink) Old 02-17-2019, 08:27 AM
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Good luck finding that person.
There will be more than one combination of main jet and air corrector that will give correct AFR at peak power. A larger MJ + AC will be richer in the mid range than a smaller combination.
Changes in exhaust system can require jet changes. There are many variables. The good news is that the stock jetting should be close and you just have to make sure that you are not running too lean at WOT and you can do that with plug chops.

Ed Prytherch
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76 Suzuki GT500
2011 Jaguar XKR

A little government and a little luck are necessary in life, but only a fool trusts either of them. - P.J. O'Rourke
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post #6 of 9 (permalink) Old 02-17-2019, 11:24 AM
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Cool 1600 cams...

I am one guy.....
On my '66 Duetto rebuilt motor, a well known rebuilder here recomended 10548 intake and standard 1600 Veloce exhaust cam with valve clearances tightened up a few thou each. Stock timing, carb jetting and very moderate port smoothing. Head probably had a little shaved off, but not much...
The results are a very satisfying motor with an increase in torque and great smoothness. One of the best 1600 I have ever built !

The C&B on intake only would probably yield similar results.
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post #7 of 9 (permalink) Old 02-18-2019, 01:26 AM
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considering engine damage by running lean (or way too rich..) is more expensive than aq dyno session I still advice on that dyno session. Or follow the advice with the AFR. But you than need to understand the changes you have to make, the allready written topic on that is a good lead. But I never will understand why people spend money on cams and other changes but hesitate on the logical AND wise last step.

Even on a stock engine a dyno seesion can be good , I have seen stock engines running + 8-10 hp and better torque delivery after a dyno session, just because our modern fules burn differently than the fuels the stock jetting was set....
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post #8 of 9 (permalink) Old 03-03-2019, 02:54 PM
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Don’t faff around. Dyno it. Full stop.

1989 Alfa 75 3.0V6 America - 1971 Alfa Giulia 1300 GT Junior - 1989 Alfa 75 3.0V6 Veloce - 2016 Merc C220 Estate - 2010 Volvo XC60 D5 Polestar
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post #9 of 9 (permalink) Old 03-03-2019, 04:24 PM
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Quote:
Don’t faff around. Dyno it. Full stop.
I am a dyno user but I can set an engine up well without one.
Example, when I took my 3L GTV6 to a local dyno it made 206 RWHP on the first pull. Changing the fueling made no improvement but I picked up 8 HP when we advanced the ignition timing by 4 degrees, so I was pretty close.
Example 2, I took my Spider to a friends dyno a few years ago. Playing with the Weber jetting got us from about 135 to 143 RWHP and playing with the timing got us nothing. The advice that I had received to set it at 34 was spot on. I did not have a wideband on that car prior to the dyno session and I had used plug chops to set up the Webers.
Example 3 I will be returning to my friends dyno soon with an extra exhaust cam and we will spend many hours playing with cams and cam timing. That would be very expensive if I did it on the local dyno. My road testing has shown the effect of moving cam LC's and we want some real numbers.
Anyone who uses a data logging wideband and who has a stretch of road to do 3rd gear WOT runs can get very close to optimum setup.

Ed Prytherch
79 Spider
76 Suzuki GT500
2011 Jaguar XKR

A little government and a little luck are necessary in life, but only a fool trusts either of them. - P.J. O'Rourke

Last edited by alfaparticle; 03-03-2019 at 04:27 PM.
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