Oil leak from push rod of vaiable valve - Alfa Romeo Bulletin Board & Forums
 
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post #1 of 15 (permalink) Old 05-06-2014, 03:38 PM Thread Starter
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Oil leak from push rod of vaiable valve

1986 spider graduate. Oil leak from Oring of variable valve adjuster.
How do I fix it?
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post #2 of 15 (permalink) Old 05-07-2014, 02:35 AM
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with the VVT unbolted from the cam cover you can probably just pick it out from around the plunger shaft (be careful not to damage the aluminium seating)
http://www.alfabb.com/bb/forums/spid...-ring-vvt.html

If that doesn't work, removing the cam cover will, as you can see in the photos here (Replacement O ring specs):
http://www.alfabb.com/bb/forums/spid...-push-rod.html

Dom - Alfa Spider 1990 S4 - formerly: Alfa 101 Sprint, 2600 Sprint, Montreal - family classics: Jensen Interceptor II, '58 Hooper RR Silver Cloud I, Shadow II, '60 Corvette.
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post #3 of 15 (permalink) Old 05-18-2014, 03:39 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks a lot. I replaced the O ring and yet the oil leak persisted. The oil/vapor canister was blocked and I cleaned the whole system and yet it leaks! Any thoughts?
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post #4 of 15 (permalink) Old 05-19-2014, 05:16 AM
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if the O ring was a good fit I can't see where else oil could leak out the back of the VVT.

just a couple of wild guesses here:
you didn't somehow leave out the small plate that bolts to the camcover and holds the O ring in place?

You certain it is not the cam cover gasket, leaking out just below the VVT?
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Dom - Alfa Spider 1990 S4 - formerly: Alfa 101 Sprint, 2600 Sprint, Montreal - family classics: Jensen Interceptor II, '58 Hooper RR Silver Cloud I, Shadow II, '60 Corvette.

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post #5 of 15 (permalink) Old 05-19-2014, 11:15 AM Thread Starter
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oil leak

Thanks a lot SS4. The plate is in the proper place and it is not from the gasket as I can see it dripping from the vvt plate. It almost stops when the oil/vapor hose is disconnected and that is why I cleaned the whole oil/vapor system to no avail.
Jay
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post #6 of 15 (permalink) Old 05-19-2014, 11:19 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks a a lot SS4. The plate is in the proper place and it is not from the gasket as I can see oil drip from the vvt plate. It almost stops when I disconnect the oil/vapor hose and that is why I cleaned the whole oil/vapor system but to no avail.
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post #7 of 15 (permalink) Old 05-19-2014, 11:45 AM
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Does the leak occur immediately, ie during tickover, or only after a run?
if it occurred almost immediately just on tickover, then clean off the oil (again) and let the engine idle with the oil filler cap off and see if things improve. (don't drive it like this or you will get oil everywhere!)

sounds like you may have excessive crankcase pressure....(rings) in which case
I'd do a compression test next.

Dom - Alfa Spider 1990 S4 - formerly: Alfa 101 Sprint, 2600 Sprint, Montreal - family classics: Jensen Interceptor II, '58 Hooper RR Silver Cloud I, Shadow II, '60 Corvette.
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post #8 of 15 (permalink) Old 05-19-2014, 12:44 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks much. It happens after a run. I will follow up with your advise and also do a compression test and report
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post #9 of 15 (permalink) Old 05-26-2014, 10:33 AM Thread Starter
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oil leak,vvt

Thanks SS4. I have done the following. Cleaned the entire oil/vapor suystem including canister. When the engine is running there is flow of vapor(?) from the hose that connects to the plenum which means the system is patent(?).With the oil filler cap off, engine idling, there is minimal leak.The leak is bad after a run and wets the engine front and underside of hood as the fan blows the oil all over.I did a compression test on the cold engine and all the cylinders register bet. 103-135 Kpa.'100. The car otherwise runs great. The car has been in storage for 12 yrs, and also has a leak from the rear engine seal. Could they be related? Is it possible to try a thicker O ring for the VVT?
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post #10 of 15 (permalink) Old 05-26-2014, 11:42 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jayalathdesilva View Post
I did a compression test on the cold engine and all the cylinders register bet. 103-135 Kpa.'100. The car otherwise runs great.
Sorry, what is Kpa.'100 ?

I know Kpa (Kilopascal), but 100 Kilopascals is only 14 Psi (or 1 bar)...so obviously I am mis-understanding

In any case, a compression test on a cold engine is no use at all.

The compression test (Dry) needs to be done on a hot engine, all sparkplugs out, and throttle/gas pedal flat to the floor during the test.

When you have those readings then re-do the test 'wet', by squirting a little oil down each spark plug hole (difference in dry and wet readings can help determine if rings are a problem)

As for a thicker O ring, you need one that fits just right, but not one that internally is too small so that the plunger will stick.

A simple test, described here, for excessive blow by, which I have tried on my car and it works. The paper might not get blown upwards, but once it is laid on to the filler hole, it should stay there!
http://www.alfabb.com/bb/forums/5326193-post2.html

Dom - Alfa Spider 1990 S4 - formerly: Alfa 101 Sprint, 2600 Sprint, Montreal - family classics: Jensen Interceptor II, '58 Hooper RR Silver Cloud I, Shadow II, '60 Corvette.
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post #11 of 15 (permalink) Old 05-31-2014, 11:42 AM Thread Starter
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My error on the kpa! I did the paper test with the oil cap off.The paper gets blown off and then flaps a few times and then gets blown off again. It does not get sucked on to the filler opening.My engine idles at about 1000 rpm (I can not adjust it anymore).Could this be a factor. Here are the results of the compression test with the engine hot. Cylinder#4 140 dry and 165 wet. #3 150/180 #2 150/165 #1 145/180. What should the normals be?
Thanks
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post #12 of 15 (permalink) Old 05-31-2014, 12:43 PM
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compression figures seem fine to me; within 10% of each other, which is good.
Wet readings: I would expect say about 20 psi difference between wet and dry, you have a little more on one cyl, but it is not an exact science and would probably read different if you did the test again.

1000 idle is a tad high (850/900 is book). You might need a new O-ring on the idle adjuster on the plenum to get the idle down to factory spec.

...but none of this points to why the VVT is blowing oil.....which was the original question.

Dom - Alfa Spider 1990 S4 - formerly: Alfa 101 Sprint, 2600 Sprint, Montreal - family classics: Jensen Interceptor II, '58 Hooper RR Silver Cloud I, Shadow II, '60 Corvette.
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post #13 of 15 (permalink) Old 05-31-2014, 06:44 PM
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All 4 of the threaded holes for the bolts and of course the plunger hole are through holes.

Meaning, they go all the way through to the inside of the cam cover.
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I have used both Loctite 545 and a thread sealant called Oatey Great White pipe joint compound with PTFE on all 4 of the bolts to stop a leak I had at the VVT. The Oatey is more available and cheaper.

Good luck.

Vin

1991 Spider Veloce - Red on Tan - Rosa Bionda
1987 Spider Quadrifoglio - Red on Grey - Rosa - Sold
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post #14 of 15 (permalink) Old 05-31-2014, 06:51 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jayalathdesilva View Post
The leak is bad after a run and wets the engine front and underside of hood as the fan blows the oil all over.
2 other areas to look at are the 13mm upside down bolts, 1 on each side of the block that go in the front corners of the head.

The other area to look at is front crankshaft seal. If that leaks, the belts and fans pick up the oil and throw it all over the place.

I highly recommend using a tracer dye to diagnose oil leaks. Invaluable IMHO.

Good luck,

Vin

1991 Spider Veloce - Red on Tan - Rosa Bionda
1987 Spider Quadrifoglio - Red on Grey - Rosa - Sold
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post #15 of 15 (permalink) Old 06-02-2014, 11:36 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks,SS4. Will do and report.
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