Since you're soliciting comments, here's a few for your consideration:
1. What kind of redline are you going to be using and how do you drive? Will you be autocrossing or doing HPDE events? Are you willing to give up low speed tractability for higher end hp? I haven't seen any curves above 6,000 RPM.
2. If you're not going to be routinely using a 6.6 - 7k redline, I don't know if I'd switch venturis. The factory chose 32s for great low end flexibility, although I have successfully run 36mm venturis in 40 DCOEs in an autocross and street car with a setup not much different from yours (300 degree Alfa factory competition cams). I was a demented youth at the time, but the car was very tractable (and fast
3. FWIW, you might consider shortening up your exhaust cam timing a bit. As Jim K pointed out in his book, the exhaust flows better than the intake. You can get both better top and bottom end performance by shortening up your exhaust timing relative to the intake. Maybe trade a cam and lifters with a bud?
4. Since you're undertaking a methodical approach to dialing the carbs in, given your comment about changing both main and AC, my comment that you should make only one change at a time is, no doubt, superfluous. In the same vein, the purchase of a set of jet drills might save a bunch of money in idle jets until you get close, allowing you to blow your funds on emulsion tubes, pump jets, pump exhausts, etc.
Further, you could drill either end of the jet and make one change. Go too big? Solder 'em up and re-drill. Replace with factory jets when you're happy.
5. Will probably find peak hp in the vicinity of .86-.90 lambda.
6. What is your regular cruising rpm? If we knew that we might be able to point you in a direction that yields a nice, relatively lean cruise without compromising throttle response or power.
7. Those 40 DCOE 32s have a really nice progression curve. Try to keep the throttles close to closed at idle.
Thanks for posting your data and good luck. Hope some of this is of use.