Building a 200HP Twin Spark - Page 3 - Alfa Romeo Bulletin Board & Forums
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post #31 of 256 (permalink) Old 11-08-2010, 07:31 PM Thread Starter
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The starter is a Bosch .


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[SIZE="2"]David Munro[/SIZE]
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1969 Spider JR Twin Spark
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post #32 of 256 (permalink) Old 11-08-2010, 10:38 PM
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Whoa.... i will be watching this thread.. Thanks for posting and keep them coming...
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post #33 of 256 (permalink) Old 11-09-2010, 04:22 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GTV-GR View Post
is the starter a marelli?
u could use the suzuki swift alternator and save some $
I just looked at a US parts site ,I could get a swift alternator for $150.00 including core charge. BUT it has the wrong pulley and I would have to fab a mounting bolt and a bracket .

So that would be a lot of work to save $ 120.00 US


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post #34 of 256 (permalink) Old 11-11-2010, 10:58 AM
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If pistons and rods are lighter than stock and you are using the stock crank as it is, the engine is going to be unbalanced, and this not only will cause vibrations, it could damage the main bearings and also the crankshaft.

You can determine the amount of material to remove and its location on the counterweight to reset the correct balance, to do it you need to know the weight reduction on the piston side (piston, rings, pin, and the alternative part of the rod)

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post #35 of 256 (permalink) Old 11-11-2010, 01:32 PM Thread Starter
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I think as long as the pistons , rods and pins are matched all will be fine.

The way it was explained to me was 1 and 4 are heading up and 2 and 3 heading down and it all balances .


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[SIZE="2"]David Munro[/SIZE]
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1969 Spider JR Twin Spark
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post #36 of 256 (permalink) Old 11-11-2010, 02:53 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 69alfa View Post
...The way it was explained to me was 1 and 4 are heading up and 2 and 3 heading down and it all balances .
This is true from the outside of the engine point of view, but inside, the counterweights from cyl 1 and 4 are pulling to one side and the ones from cyl 2 and 3 do the same but in the opposite direction, so at high speeds there is a nothing negligible bending force in the crankshaft that can ruin your main bearings.

If I were you, I would take opportunity to modify a little the counterweights giving them knife edge or round shape, reestablishing this way the correct balance. The correct shape is easy to calculate with a CAD software (knowing the weight reduction in the piston side)

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- '90 2.0 Spider -- '93 164 QV -- '93 155 2.0 TS -- '02 156 2.5 V6 -- '?? FMG 3.8 Project
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post #37 of 256 (permalink) Old 11-11-2010, 04:09 PM
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I'm skeptical of the knife-edge treatment. But you should have the crank + rods (and bearings + pistons + pins (and bearings) carefully balanced. Ideally, the rods should be matched in weight and end-for end as well. A good auto machine shop can do a good balance job, but it takes a special fixture for the alfa crank and pistons, so I'd find a shop experienced with Alfa engines. While you're at it, take the flywheel and clutch disc and cover in as well. Have each one balanced separately, then as a unit.

Robert
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post #38 of 256 (permalink) Old 11-17-2010, 07:48 PM Thread Starter
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Twin Spark On the Dyno

Got the video of my Dyno run up on you tube .

The smoke you see at the end of the run is due to the rev limiter cutting in.


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[SIZE="2"]David Munro[/SIZE]
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1969 Spider JR Twin Spark

Last edited by 69alfa; 11-20-2010 at 05:42 AM.
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post #39 of 256 (permalink) Old 11-20-2010, 06:31 PM Thread Starter
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Step One Remove Motor -Check

Pulled the gear box out then the motor . Had it all out in no time flat .
It was the smoothest motor removal ever . Pulling out the gear box is so easy now that I have a lift (4 post ).

I have a very small leak in the gear box so I will be fixing that over the winter.

I am planning to get this kit from Spruell Block-rear-stud-replace-studs-with-bolts- This will make removal of just the motor or just the gear box very simple .


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1969 Spider JR Twin Spark
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post #40 of 256 (permalink) Old 11-20-2010, 08:06 PM Thread Starter
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I was surfing the Web and found this product Metal thread inserts by E-Z LOK I am going to order some of these bad boys and save some money. The down side of the Spruell kit is I have lost of drill bits and taps.


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1969 Spider JR Twin Spark
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post #41 of 256 (permalink) Old 11-21-2010, 09:18 AM
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Spruel uses a special insert that locks into the aluminum. May be a bit more reliable. If you get your own, be sure to get the high strength bolts he uses. The drill and tap are not expensive bits, so dropping them isn't really saving a lot, but call paul and see if he can give you a price...

In either case, the hard part is getting the insert drilled and tapped square.

R
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post #42 of 256 (permalink) Old 11-21-2010, 05:21 PM
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Garage
If your careful you'll get it square, the drill will pretty much follow the hole. If your worried use a smaller drill first. BTW, those threaded inserts are available at McMaster-Carr. McMaster might even have 12.9 screws too.
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post #43 of 256 (permalink) Old 11-23-2010, 06:40 PM Thread Starter
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Got the head off , striped and cleaned.

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Here are the old 44mm and the new 47mm Intake Valves.
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I put the head gasket in place to see if the new valve would miss it.
And it does.

I weighed the old Clutch and flywheel it is 29 lb
the new Clutch and Flywheel is 16 lb
And the old one had 6 or 7 lb taken off it.


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[SIZE="2"]David Munro[/SIZE]
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1969 Spider JR Twin Spark

Last edited by 69alfa; 11-24-2010 at 02:05 PM.
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post #44 of 256 (permalink) Old 11-24-2010, 11:25 AM
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subscribed....................

[I]Regards Keith, GTJ Twin Spark[/I]
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post #45 of 256 (permalink) Old 11-25-2010, 05:40 PM Thread Starter
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Exhaust Guides Standard or Race ???

I am going to put in an order to Spruell Motorsport.com Race Valve Guides Intake and Exhaust and I am tiring to decide on the exhaust guides . Any downside to the bronze race ones over the cast iron stock ?

Race -Intake and Exhaust
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Cast Iron Exhaust
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[SIZE="2"]David Munro[/SIZE]
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1969 Spider JR Twin Spark
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