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post #1 of 12 (permalink) Old 11-21-2015, 02:07 PM Thread Starter
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Trunk mounted battery location & positive cable routing

Hey all

Getting ready to make a bracket and wire my trunk mounted battery (73 GTV). Looks like an optima red top (which have served me flawlessly in other cars) will fit on the upper portion of the trunk where I've marked with cardboard.

Its been so long since my car has been together - can anyone see a reason why the routing I've mocked up in string won't work? I checked the OD of the 1ga cable and it will just fit under the SS sills.

Looking back at old pics I'm fairly certain hole I'm taking the cable thru was capped off with nothing running thru it, so I'll add an appropriate grommet and send the B+ directly to the starter.
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post #2 of 12 (permalink) Old 11-21-2015, 03:43 PM
I mounted mine on the shelf but routed the cable under the car, along the frame rail and up the firewall. I then mounted a fuse buss from a 90s Saab on the passenger side of the firewall. Then distributed from there. Basically the same routing that the later model Spiders with trunk mounted battery.

There are folks that are dead set against routing the battery cable thru the cabin. As long at it's protected I don't think it's a big risk...
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post #3 of 12 (permalink) Old 11-22-2015, 07:01 AM Thread Starter
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I was trying to think thru the dangers of in vs outside the cabin and the only thing I could come up with as a demerit on in the cabin was potential abrasion transferred from the sill closure when the door is slammed shut? I'm using welding cable which I understand to have better abrasion resistance than battery cable. If 5 years of welding and angle grinding in a dirty, rough slab garage is any guide, it is good stuff.

What types of fasteners and wire management products did you use to route the lines under the car?

Also - I'm presuming you took an always hot directly to the starter, before the fuse buss? From what I understand, the starter circuit can not be protected, which is why some people add a solonoid so its only hot when cranking.

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Originally Posted by gprocket View Post
I mounted mine on the shelf but routed the cable under the car, along the frame rail and up the firewall. I then mounted a fuse buss from a 90s Saab on the passenger side of the firewall. Then distributed from there. Basically the same routing that the later model Spiders with trunk mounted battery.

There are folks that are dead set against routing the battery cable thru the cabin. As long at it's protected I don't think it's a big risk...

'73 GTV bare metal project... nearing 'car' status
E30 Daily - '65 912 project... no longer in waiting

Last edited by r-mm; 11-22-2015 at 07:12 AM.
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post #4 of 12 (permalink) Old 12-07-2015, 02:24 AM
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@r-mm How are you planning to mount the battery, drilling holes for a "platform"?
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post #5 of 12 (permalink) Old 12-07-2015, 12:18 PM Thread Starter
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Alessandro - when I purchase the battery I'll likely make or purchase something along these lines: Odyssey Battery Hold down - HD 680 B

I will likely add a few holes to the upper part of the trunk, the area above the differential. This area gets little road spray (I found no rust or even paint damage there when disassembling my car) so it seems a relatively "safe" place for new penetrations.

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post #6 of 12 (permalink) Old 02-17-2018, 02:47 PM
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@r-mm do you have any picture of how you actually mounted the cable? I'm about to wire my car as well and a little inspiration from another Bluette GTV would be nice. :-)
Thanks!

Learning, learning..
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post #7 of 12 (permalink) Old 02-17-2018, 03:00 PM Thread Starter
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Sure I can take some. What part are you asking about?

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post #8 of 12 (permalink) Old 02-17-2018, 03:23 PM
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I know you have already decided where to mount the battery, and are just asking about how to route the cable, but...

Putting your battery in the center of that shelf doesn't make sense to me:

- You will lose a significant part of your limited trunk space. That shelf is a great place to put folding chairs, not to mention ice chests, soft luggage, .... If you have to put it on that shelf, at least move it over to the right side, leaving a larger clear volume on the left.

- If your goal is to distribute the battery's weight better, why not put it behind the R wheel well? In that location, it will offset the weight of the driver and lower the car's center of gravity. That's where Alfa put the battery on the later spiders.

Jay Mackro
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'65 Guilia Sprint GT
'67 Duetto
'91 164L

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post #9 of 12 (permalink) Old 02-17-2018, 03:36 PM
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@r-mm whatever you have. Around the firewall would be great and how you fixed the cable overall. I thought about Zip-Tying but I have a hard time with it as it looks really home-made. :-)

Thanks again.

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post #10 of 12 (permalink) Old 02-17-2018, 08:25 PM Thread Starter
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Trunk mounted battery location & positive cable routing

This is not quite done I am going to remove the shut off on the negative terminal and only use the circuit breaker. I realize that going behind the rear seat is not the way it's usually done but I doubt anyone will ever sit there and it seems safer than dealing with the underside of the car. I could not get the cable to fit under the stainless sill cap. But if I have used a slightly lower gauge which would probably have been fine that would have been a great route. on the underside I used stainless pinch clamps and stainless rivets.

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post #11 of 12 (permalink) Old 02-19-2018, 11:40 AM
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r-mm- FWIW, that looks O.K. to me. I think it's easy to overthink much of this wire routing- it's mas o menos in the long run as long as you don't do something obviously stupid. That said, I do believe it can be optimized if you have the time, resources and apply a little of Murphy's Law.

BTW, is that a fused relay for the fuel pump I spy mounted behind the battery ? If so your pump(s) will thank you for that shorter path to +12v, probably.

If the battery cutoff switch cantilevered like that should prove to vibrate loose or be otherwise difficult to keep secure, you can always make the fuse to (or the fused relay itself) accessible and just pull the fuse for security/maintenance purposes. One less high amperage junction to maintain.

Last edited by Capp; 02-19-2018 at 11:43 AM.
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post #12 of 12 (permalink) Old 02-19-2018, 11:46 AM Thread Starter
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Yes, fused relay to the fuel pump.

The negative shutoff on the left will come off permanently when I have time to do it.

The messy wires in the foreground are for the tender and will also come off once she's up and running.

The circuit breaker on the B+ will remain for safety and security. I need to make a cover for it so loose objects in the trunk don't shut it all down. Some people ask why circuit breaker. A few reasons

1. Why not. Modern vehicles have primary fusible links and its added safety for a major Oh S event.
2. It is really hard to find a good low profile shutoff switch, Made in the usa that is not designed for race safety purposes (ie, low profile, etc). This quality Bussman product is designed for many cycles and cost about $25
3. Its has a delayed trip curve designed for inductive motors, ie, your cold start amps will not trip it. At least mine didn't and I'm running high compression with an un-broken-in motor.

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