SPICA Throttle Body rebuild - Alfa Romeo Bulletin Board & Forums
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post #1 of 26 (permalink) Old 02-10-2019, 07:01 PM Thread Starter
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SPICA Throttle Body rebuild

Hello all -

Forum member John Jeffries kindly gave me a spare set of SPICA 2000 throttle bodies that I want to rebuild. My fully rebuilt, Ingram pump'd 2000 motor runs wonderfully but I suspect it having an air leak at idle as I have a persistent vacuum thru the bodies and have done all, yes all, the steps including using the AR factory stop set tool.

I have seen very few threads on rebuilding these and am not saying the bodies are definitively the problem but nonetheless I have them on the bench so will have a go at them.

I have one of them dismantled, the other soaking to break free a seized shaft. If anyone has experience here please chime in.
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post #2 of 26 (permalink) Old 02-11-2019, 07:20 AM
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I don't, but I'm sure Wes Ingram would. He might know a common sized and available square seal for the shafts that you can get locally.

The brass screws that hold the butterfly plates will need to be mushroomed/staked, or maybe locktited to prevent them from falling out and being injected into the cylinders.

John Stewart
74 Spider
91 164S

Last edited by Roadtrip; 02-11-2019 at 07:24 AM.
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post #3 of 26 (permalink) Old 02-11-2019, 07:59 AM
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take the opportunity to open up/port the intakes, bring to a shop have em bored open more. Decrease the diameter of the butterfly shaft where it is in the airflow, and file down the screws that hold the brass butterfly plates to the shaft to get a minimal cross-section when fully open. See what you can do to get more air through there.

As for the seal, measure the three requirements (ID/OD/Depth) and got to motion industries to find a suitable seal.

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post #4 of 26 (permalink) Old 02-13-2019, 11:04 AM
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The seal size is 13x19x3mm. I bought mine from this store: Simply Bearings Megastore | eBay Stores
Also, look at this thread for part numbers etc.: https://www.alfabb.com/bb/forums/car...-question.html

1975 Alfetta; ex 1973 Spider; ex 1984 Alfetta Quadrifoglio Oro
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post #5 of 26 (permalink) Old 02-13-2019, 11:06 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks that is exactly the info I was seeking!

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post #6 of 26 (permalink) Old 03-03-2019, 01:29 PM Thread Starter
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I found the parts needed at reasonable cost here:

https://www.thebigbearingstore.com/6...earing-7x19x6/ - there is a SS shielded and rubber sealed version, I opted for the later. The factory part is entirely open.
https://www.thebigbearingstore.com/1...tric-oil-seal/

well, I should wait to receive and install before I go saying these are the parts needed. Will update...

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post #7 of 26 (permalink) Old 03-03-2019, 01:32 PM Thread Starter
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I also spent some time cleaning one of the TBs. Put it in the ultrasonic then shot its exterior in some clear powder. Refinished or replace most of the hardware. The fiddly part will be insuring a perfect seal on the brass discs but that will come on reassembly when the bearings are here.
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post #8 of 26 (permalink) Old 03-03-2019, 04:58 PM
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Very nicely done. I've pulled a couple of them apart, I'm waiting to see your experience with the new seals.
Bob

Everyday is a school day. Learning something new all the time

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You're kidding, another one?! 1984 GTV6 Maratona
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You didn't...oh yes I did. '73 Berlina graduate course in rust repair. No thread yet, don't want to piss off the GTV
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post #9 of 26 (permalink) Old 03-03-2019, 07:02 PM Thread Starter
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These are the closest I've found to replace the brass screws. Right in every dim but 7.5mm dia head instead of 6mm. I believe this will fit or can be filed down some. If they work I'll have enough for the whole BB... packs of 100.

https://www.mcmaster.com/91700a317
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post #10 of 26 (permalink) Old 03-03-2019, 09:06 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by r-mm View Post
These are the closest I've found to replace the brass screws. Right in every dim but 7.5mm dia head instead of 6mm. I believe this will fit or can be filed down some. If they work I'll have enough for the whole BB... packs of 100.

https://www.mcmaster.com/91700a317
Call McMaster and give them the part number for the screw your showing. Then ask them if they can get it with the head size you need. They will take your number and call their supplier's and see if its available. They will usually call you back in 30 minutes to an hour. If they can get it they will give you the cost and a quote number.

I have done this many times. They have a really good customer service.

1969 1750 Spider Veloce w/dual webers, 1969 1750 Berlina, 1971 1750 Spider Veloce w/ dual webers, 1985 Spider Veloce 23,000 orig. miles, {Two} 1986 Spider Veloces, 1987 Spider Veloce bought new, 1988 Quadrifoglio, 1991 164S, Plus several more. I think they are breeding.
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post #11 of 26 (permalink) Old 03-03-2019, 11:37 PM
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As far as I remember I did use this one:

48-50-55 DCO 2/SP

Position 31 order Number 9320

Salutations from the Baltic sea

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post #12 of 26 (permalink) Old 03-04-2019, 05:22 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks all. I already put an order in for the McMaster parts I linked to so I'll let you know if I can make them work, I'm optimistic I can. Seeing as I'll have 100 of them I'm happy to drop a few in the mail to whoever needs them and will still have a big supply in case I need to drill them out in the future, as I'll likely be using some loctite to keep them from being swallowed by my nicely rebuilt 2L.

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post #13 of 26 (permalink) Old 03-06-2019, 03:32 PM Thread Starter
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With some loctite and a jewelers file, I think this will work nicely.

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post #14 of 26 (permalink) Old 03-06-2019, 06:16 PM
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What did you use in the ultrasonic cleaner to get the rust off the steel parts?

Mike
1969 GTV 1750
San Diego, CA

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post #15 of 26 (permalink) Old 03-06-2019, 06:41 PM
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Again, think about the airflow that is needed through the ports. If you don't desire to open up the ports (ie remove some material to increase the ID of the bore) then do try to minimize the screw / shaft etc cross section.

Remember that the area of the bore is a squared function, so small changes in ID result in large changes to area (A = pi*r^2). Having that screw head sticking up like that is an impediment to air flow. This rebuild is a chance to gain some pretty large performance gains if you are so inclined.

Matching the outlet to the head inlet will also get more air in.

If you are not trying to goose up performance, then what you have ought to be just fine!

74 GTV with 10548's and Ingram pump
71 Spider 1750 BOMBER ; 1995 LS 78K tight fast car
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