New (To me) 1984 Spyder 2.0 - Alfa Romeo Bulletin Board & Forums
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post #1 of 12 (permalink) Old 12-15-2017, 07:34 AM Thread Starter
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Talking New (To me) 1984 Spyder 2.0

Ok, so I had a 1980 spider years ago...it went with the divorce, I miss the car not the ex. So I happened into a guy that had a 1984 Spyder 2.0 but had no idea what he had (I only had a general idea). I of course couldn't get my wallet out fast enough to buy the car when he said he was going to scrap it. This is a rescue and I know that I have a lot to learn, a lot to fix. I'm just sort of relearning all the goodness that is Alfa Romeo. The problem, I have no idea what the PO has done (or not done) and this is my first PROJECT car.

I need all the help that I can get. I'm told this thing sat for 20 years.

I have a starting problem. I replaced the tank, sending unit, in tank fuel pump, fuel relay, primary fuel pump and filter and replaced every fuse I found in the fuse box. I believe that I am getting fuel to the injectors. I can get it to run as long as I'm spraying starter fluid into the air intake but as soon as I stop spraying it shuts off. Now anyone who has been in my shoes knows the absolute thrill of hearing that thing fire up for the first time BUT I want to drive this thing. As a matter of process I'm replacing every hose/rubber line I can find. I'm considering injector replacement but wanted to insure that was the problem before I moved forward with that.

What am I missing? My prior Alfa didn't have the ECU, how do I know/tell if its L-Jet or Motronic (I'm guessing its Motronic)? How do I validate that the ECU is properly functioning?

Generally speaking I think most of it is there and only minimal rust (here in the Northeast that is something of a miracle).

The treads I've read have been fantastic, but no one seems to be addressing my lack of knowledge and the specific year. I have obtained a shop manual for a 1988 which seems to be very similar and has been helpful. Any input/insight you could offer would be a huge help. Help me save this car!!!
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post #2 of 12 (permalink) Old 12-15-2017, 07:58 AM
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Welcome! Click the link in my signature to a page of info about the L-jetronic system in USA versions of the Series 3 Spiders (1982-1989). In other parts of the world, Spiders might have carbs instead of EFI.

- - Eric
don't read this
~ 1984 Spider Veloce ~
- -~ 1981 GTV-6 ~
Mebane, North Carolina


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post #3 of 12 (permalink) Old 12-15-2017, 10:44 AM
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the problem maybe the drive relay under the parcel tray, the 82 - 84.5 is the same basically the same in terms of the engine management as the later S-3 (sans electric VVT) so that ready available manual has helpful diagrams and information.

When you turn the key to "on" the drive relay should click and the pumps should run for a few milliseconds. I would first prime the system by means of a jumper wire to the intank pump, then check for the operation of the drive relay, the try to start. Also check the red fuse holder and associated wiring under the rear parcel tray.

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ex:
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post #4 of 12 (permalink) Old 12-15-2017, 11:03 AM Thread Starter
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the problem maybe the drive relay under the parcel tray, the 82 - 84.5 is the same basically the same in terms of the engine management as the later S-3 (sans electric VVT) so that ready available manual has helpful diagrams and information.

When you turn the key to "on" the drive relay should click and the pumps should run for a few milliseconds. I would first prime the system by means of a jumper wire to the intank pump, then check for the operation of the drive relay, the try to start. Also check the red fuse holder and associated wiring under the rear parcel tray.
You are correct, you can hear the pump very briefly as you turn the switch. You mention the "drive relay" can you be more descriptive? I've gotten under the parcel deck and there is an ECU there. I did replace the "fuel relay" when I did both pumps and the filter.
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post #5 of 12 (permalink) Old 12-15-2017, 04:20 PM
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the drive relay looks like this, sorry bout the crappy photo, you should have bosch, the only way I know to test this is to replace with a known fully functioning unit, I've had them fail, but still pass the key on test. prime the system, then see if it fires; make sure all of the air intake and afm are hooked up and tight, no air leaks between the afm and the head.
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post #6 of 12 (permalink) Old 03-06-2019, 06:28 AM Thread Starter
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Ok folks, need your help. I had a bit of a set back but now i'm back at it. I have this car that I've been tinkering on and still can't get the **** thing to start/run. To date I've replaced Relay, Both Fuel pumps, every rubber hose I can see, Cold start, every fuse I can see, fuel tank and air intake hose (across the top of the engine). I bought a fuel pressure regulator (just to do it) but am having a hard time getting the threads on the end of the fuel rail to release (any tips on that would be very welcome. Anyone got any ideas? I thought I had gotten it to run last year (before my set back) but since its been sitting we are back to square one. If I spray starting fluid into the air hose it'll spit and sputter a bit but as soon as I stop it goes back to nothing. I'm committed to getting this old girl to run but need some direction. I've read through the Injector system help and I'm still stuck.
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post #7 of 12 (permalink) Old 03-06-2019, 06:49 AM
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I feel your pain! I spent 2 long years trying to get one of these L Jet engines to run that was transplanted into a Berlina. Finally, after trying everything, changing a bunch of stuff, copious hours of testing this, that and the other thing, I finally got it running. A pin had come loose in one of the 2 crank sensors connectors. I fixed that and it immediately started and ran like a dream. I quickly sold it!!

Red 1991 164S, Black 1991 164S, Red 1987 Milano, 1972 Berlina, 1973 Berlina rebuilding SPICA engine
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post #8 of 12 (permalink) Old 03-06-2019, 01:23 PM
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Originally Posted by Budhiblair3 View Post
I bought a fuel pressure regulator (just to do it) but am having a hard time getting the threads on the end of the fuel rail to release (any tips on that would be very welcome. Anyone got any ideas?...
you can do a proper fuel pressure test to check the FPR. No need to replace it if fuel pressure is good!
https://www.alfabb.com/bb/forums/8241273-post2.html

you are 100% sure you have spark?
do you have 11,0V cranking voltage (if not, the ecu will not awake)

If yes to above, then one can move on to the fuel supply.

check if there is fuel in the vacuum hose on the top of FPR (if so, its bad) and also you could clamp off the return line (below) to see if that helps starting.

the FPR on the S3 (the threaded type) is a poor design as the support is flimsy....here it suggests remove the rail and try on the bench:
https://www.alfabb.com/bb/forums/spi...regulator.html

you can bypass the fuel relay by removing it and jumping pin#30 & #87...that will make the pumps run continuously....try starting

you should also test the injectors are functioning...test voltage to them and use a noid light as a first test.

check the wires on the coil are fitted correct (post a photo)...remove and clean the connections.

check main ECU grounds on head (and on AAV if you have grounds there):


BTW, If you post over in the spider section, you will get a lot more views...a no start S3 is almost a daily theme over there
https://www.alfabb.com/bb/forums/spi...ies-1966-1994/

Dom - Alfa Spider 1990 S4 - formerly: Alfa 101 Sprint, 2600 Sprint, Montreal - family classics: Jensen Interceptor II, '58 Hooper RR Silver Cloud I, Shadow II, '60 Corvette.

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post #9 of 12 (permalink) Old 03-06-2019, 02:00 PM Thread Starter
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I am getting spark to the plugs. I have the battery on the trickle charger as we speak, I will let you know how that goes. I am useless with a tester, I hope to be given a lesson on their use soon. With all the little electrical issues I'm sure I'll be getting very familiar (no wipers, no horn, only one head light works, the power windows only one works etc). Sometimes its just nice to know how aggressive I can be with this thing, like you said the FPR feels flimsy and feels seized so having advice is definitely helpful. This is my first project car and I desperately want to make it go...
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post #10 of 12 (permalink) Old 03-13-2019, 07:22 AM Thread Starter
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So I fully charged the battery...still no go. Any ideas? I'm going to recheck fuses, relays, connections/grounds etc.
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post #11 of 12 (permalink) Old 03-13-2019, 09:03 AM
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Click the link in my signature to a page of info about DIY diagnosis of our L-jet Spiders. L-jetronic is a system - all the parts have to work correctly for it to work at all.

If your Spider has the bullet type fuses of unknown vintage I suggest replacing all of them and cleaning the contacts where the fuses mount. A small toothbrush size wire brush is good for cleaning the contacts. And, if possible, use fuses with a brass strip. The ones with an aluminum strip can somehow appear good but fail to allow electrons to flow - especially as they get old.

Even though you've charged up the battery, I suggest you put a voltmeter on the battery (a dash gauge is not useful for this test). Fully charged the battery should show 12.6V. 12.3V is half charged. You can't do this shortly after charging though - the battery can hold a higher residual charge for a while after charging. Check after it has sat unused but off the charger for a few hours. Next see what it reads during cranking. The computers need about 10.5V to power up and send the make spark/squirt fuel signals. It can sound like it is cranking over fine but if the battery is a little weak or the starter is drawing too much power system voltage can drop below the computer's threshold = no joy. For one point of reference, our '84 Spider shows 11.6V - 11.8V during cranking.
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- - Eric
don't read this
~ 1984 Spider Veloce ~
- -~ 1981 GTV-6 ~
Mebane, North Carolina


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post #12 of 12 (permalink) Old 04-04-2019, 10:04 AM
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hello fellow alfaholics been here a few weeks and learned a lot from just reading , but for the life of me i have an 1983 spider i cant get it to idle hot or cold , runs great on the road i have cleaned all the lines , thinking it might be the timing or the valve on the valve cover. it does not have the advance timing solenoid ,
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