Alfa Romeo Forums banner

1981 Spider Veloce Restoration Project

7K views 33 replies 8 participants last post by  Alfaboutvegas 
#1 ·
Bumper Auto part Automotive exterior Vehicle Hood
Since my uncle is dealing with the Giulia, my grandmother thought it would be a great idea for me to fix this car. Many would agree because how easy it is. Luckily, this car is officially mine, and I'm hoarding money for parts. However, I need some help with it like electrical stuff, and mechanical stuff as well. I'll send more pictures as well. It does not have an engine yet. I'll have to put it in soon.
 

Attachments

See less See more
5
#2 ·
Much better car to learn on although still a huge job for a first timer.
Cant you find a runner that you can drive and learn on at the same time? An alfetta would be the ideal. This one you will possibly rush to get it on the road.
The white spider i was going to suggest you put into storage until you know what your doing. Start reading everything you can and collecting the "correct" parts.
 
#3 ·
Sadly, that would be impossible for me to find another alfa to drive. Some of the wires are labeled, so it won't be difficult as it is. However, I need to know the plastic parts, and where they go. But, I'll deal with it whenever I get the engine in it. I apologize if I'm repeating things.
 
#4 ·
Alright guys, I have created a list on what to do before the engine, and here it is:

Door Alignment (tough one, from what I've heard)
Checking the gas tank for holes
Exam the brakes
Check for all wiring are in the car
Clean out the carpet
Get the floor rust protected. (Should I do it under the hood?)
Clean up the seats


If you guys got any other ideas, hit me up here.

DMA
 
#6 ·
The one thing I can tell from the pictures is the dash, console and the lower console are all from an 86 or later spider. The dash will fit fine. Although it will be hard to hook up the gauges as all the connectors will be different and the speedo went to electric in 86. The console and the lower console will be harder as the brackets welded to the body are different for them.
 
#8 ·
The dash itself will work. So if you can come up with the pods and the gauges you can install them on the dash you have.
 
#9 ·
The Lay out

Hey guys, I'm back with some pictures and questions. First, I vacuumed the carpet set and remove any pieces, that were not glued on or nailed on, into the house. I lay them out for pictures, so here they are.
 

Attachments

#12 ·
Okay, now for the questions. I attempted to remove the doors, but the bolt are tight. Also, there's a thin rusty line (wish I took a picture of that :/ ) where there's a pin, that's holding the body. So, I am better off just rebuilding the doors. Plus, it is a pain to open and close it.

Should I use a breaker bar/torque wrench for the bolts or use WD40 and use the ratchet?
Am I better off just rebuilding the door?

If you have any other suggestions, hit me up.

Thanks,

DMA
 

Attachments

#13 ·
Soak the bolts with rust penetrating oil - like Liquid Wrench or Break Free, and WAIT, reapply and WAIT. Give it a day.

Use six-point sockets, not twelve.

When a really rusty nut or bolt starts to turn, apply even more oil and give it a turn or two BACK IN - this clears the debris from the threads. That's how you avoid breaking or stripping threads on rusty nuts & bolts.

------------------------

Have you contacted papajama for an electrical schematic yet? You WILL want that handy tool!! See http://www.alfabb.com/bb/forums/electrical-chassis-lighting/21571-available-wiring-diagrams.html
 
#15 ·
I broke down some bolts, so it'll be easier for me whenever I remove the doors for rebuilding. I removed most of the insulation in my car, and I'm starting to search for an engine (2000cc) and a 115 transmission. My ideal goal is to get the car running for the summer, then I'll deal with the doors and the carpet. The floor pans are a little bit rust, so I'll apply bondo and coat it with rust protection. Most of the delays were caused by rain. The car is still covered with 3 tarps and one Jaguar car cover.
 

Attachments

#16 ·
Alright, I got good news and bad news. Good news is that I got an engine; bad news is that it has carburetor instead of bosh fuel injection. Which I don't mind it that much because I will have experience. However, this leads me to this question.

Is it possible for me to use an engine that has carburetors instead of fuel injected engine?
 
#17 ·
DMA, you can use the carb eng. There are linkage issues to address and hose vacuum lines as well. Do your research, you may want to stay with an injection fuel supply. ??
I know I'm having my own hurdles with some Del Lorto's but I kinda like 'em.
I do hope your project continues and you are satisfied with the results! GL
 
#18 ·
Overall, having had both - I like dual carbs BETTER than SPICA fuel injection.

It's the sound, mostly. Carburetors have that throaty roar to them instead of a faint background sewing machine sound of a SPICA system.
But carburetors are less tightly controlled than fuel injection (which is why it has become the standard).

SPICA works really well, but can be tough to debug when things go wrong (as they will - someday).

I do like Webers better than DeLorto's though.
 
#19 ·
Okay, thank you guys for answering that question. The only reason why I'm getting that engine is because it's real close to me. However, I don't have a clue where to buy the SPICA fuel injectors or the Bosch. I have heard that Bosch is better, but I wanted to know a little bit about it. Hopefully, I'll get it running at the end of the year.
 
#20 ·
What have I been doing?

Well, I bought engine mounts, so I put the engine in. Later on, I bought some a can of spray paint, and sprayed it on the car. Surprise, surprise, The color looks good. I have chosen red (colonial red). The difficult part was removing the signal light because I was doing it in the dark (Not Smart). Few days past, I looked at it again, and I still think that it looks good.
 

Attachments

#21 ·
Engine in the Car?

Yep, I got the engine into the car. It had an Alfetta oil pan, but I swapped it out into the spider oil pan. Then, I took the entire engine along with the transmission and the driveshaft into the car. I connect the plate for the drive shaft, but I don't see a place to mount the transmission into the car. My question is that where does the transmission mount stick onto? Here are the pictures where the engine is in the car.
 
#23 ·
Are you asking?

Do you need to know how the tranny is supported?
At the end of trans. there is a rounded cylinder, that fits into a "cradled" cross member. That cross member is bolted to the under body spanning to both sides of the driveshaft tunnel.
Now, are you still following?
A picture is worth a thousand words, & I've not got my "disc" to show the picture of my explanation. Hopefully someone will chime in that has theirs handy.
I do hope this helps.
And very nice progress with the Spider. Hope you're cruising this Spring!
Greg
 
#31 ·
yup, I have the bolts matched to the cross-members, some of my friends do call me names to that effect
 
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top