Left Nose Repair - '71 GTV - Opinions Sought! - Alfa Romeo Bulletin Board & Forums
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post #1 of 34 (permalink) Old 12-11-2016, 03:44 PM Thread Starter
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Nose Repair - '71 GTV - Opinions Sought!

Now that I finally have the left window sill done I took the paint and a garage filling amount of bondo out of the front left nose. I can't believe the guy that flipped this car did this but I'm the one who bought it. Anyway I would really like some opinions if this is even repairable without wholesale replacement? And if so I'd love to hear ideas about how to approach the project. I can do the body welding now but haven't ever tried my hand with an english wheel. All opinions welcome because unless I can see a path forward I think it will be time for me to take the car into the shop and let the professionals do what they do.
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'71 GTV 1750 USA SPICA

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post #2 of 34 (permalink) Old 12-11-2016, 04:20 PM
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Originally Posted by cabikefreak View Post
Now that I finally have the left window sill done I took the paint and a garage filling amount of bondo out of the front left nose. I can't believe the guy that flipped this car did this but I'm the one who bought it. Anyway I would really like some opinions if this is even repairable without wholesale replacement? And if so I'd love to hear ideas about how to approach the project. I can do the body welding now but haven't ever tried my hand with an english wheel. All opinions welcome because unless I can see a path forward I think it will be time for me to take the car into the shop and let the professionals do what they do.
If you can do some welding yourself maybe see if you can get a cut from a parts car because the rust is usually in the bottom quarter not up at the light.

Current cars 1975 spyder under resto, 1973 Berlina Resto 1976 Berlina parts car 1972 GTjunior fully restored, 1 complete rolling shell spyder.exit 1989 75 T/S sold
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post #3 of 34 (permalink) Old 12-11-2016, 04:35 PM
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I would source a repair panel from classicalfa, you can cut them to fit the area you need to repair. If a shop does it (scratch fabrication), labor costs will be astronomical. If you do it, it's way easier to fit a pre-fabbed piece. A skim coat of body filler is absolutely acceptable, but not shovel loads!

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post #4 of 34 (permalink) Old 12-11-2016, 04:35 PM
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fender available

I'm not a judge of metal work and what to make it right, but if you need a fender I have one.
I think it's from a '69 (it's ochre). Not very expensive.
Consider me backup if you want to.
Richard
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post #5 of 34 (permalink) Old 12-12-2016, 03:22 PM
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Is there a matching brazed seam/repair on the other fender? It looks like someone may have replaced the front panel. Or maybe patched in a piece of fender? hard to figure out what they were doing and what this was supposed to fix...

Mike
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post #6 of 34 (permalink) Old 02-12-2017, 03:08 PM Thread Starter
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Continuing saga of discovery on the GTV nose

OK finally getting back to this (had a bunch of work on my son's camper). I've removed the paint and filler from the right nose. It is every bit as bad or worse than the left side. I really can't figure out how the PO/Flipper dumb$ss got it this wrong. I also found that on the right side down low he tried to attach good new metal to rust and then trust the filler to hold it all together. I hope nobody else buys anything from this guy and gets in the mess I'm in!

Anyway I'm off the subject of a new nose and don't need to replace whole fenders either. So my plan is to make little patch pieces and weld them in between each of the body lines, which thankfully are intact with only a skim coat of filler on top. In some ways this looks easier than the window sill repair I already completed. Now that I've tempted the bodywork Gods I'm sure I'll find otherwise. I value all input and will update my progress!
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'71 GTV 1750 USA SPICA
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post #7 of 34 (permalink) Old 02-12-2017, 11:45 PM
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Melt the bronze out and see what you are left with.

Remove front wheels and inner guard splash panel and panel beat guard and ends of nose panel straight and again see what you are left with.

I suspect after doing this you can correctly trim the guard or nose panel and correctly butt weld by tacking miles apart and then half way between and so on ensuring fully cold in between each round of tacking.

Shouldn't be too hard ... similar process for lower front panel repair, but not so easy because you cannot get behind it.
Pete
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post #8 of 34 (permalink) Old 02-13-2017, 06:06 PM
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My GTV was so bad I would have bet my next paycheck replacement parts were for sure but they straighten everything so smooth it took minimum filler. If you can find a good panel beater that can be repaired. Good luck!
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The passenger seat is 15 miles an hour faster than the drivers seat.

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the ones that got away:
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post #9 of 34 (permalink) Old 03-16-2017, 09:22 PM Thread Starter
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Ok I have divided things up into sections with the plan to cut each out, form the piece and butt weld into place. I figure I am not making it any worse.

My first piece is ready but I am going to cut the next section as marked and get that ready before welding.

Down the side though I am confused about the shape of the nose piece relative to the fender. I don't know what that curve is supposed to look like since this was previously full of filler. Is it supposed to be concave or more of a straight line?

Can someone please take a picture of their car at approximately this same angle so I can see the way the nose is to fair into the fender?



Gene
'71 GTV 1750 USA SPICA
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post #10 of 34 (permalink) Old 03-16-2017, 11:36 PM
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I hope this helps. Pm if you need more.
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post #11 of 34 (permalink) Old 03-17-2017, 06:37 PM Thread Starter
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Thank you JJr! Looks like a straight line with little to no concave curve coming off the nose. I am curious why the nose panel on my car was made the way it was. From the hole pattern in the front it looks like it is for a 2000, not 1750 and maybe that matters. Anyway it is going to add to the challenge I think. Thanks again!

Gene
'71 GTV 1750 USA SPICA
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post #12 of 34 (permalink) Old 03-18-2017, 12:38 AM
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1750 and 2000 front panels are the same, except the early S1's only had 2 slots for radiator air compared to later panels with 4 slots. So not sure what you are seeing different ?????????????

Pete

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post #13 of 34 (permalink) Old 03-18-2017, 06:44 AM
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Perhaps it'd be helpful to find another car locally and take some templates off of it. Normally in the past I've done that using the same section on the other side of the car (mirror image and all that) but in your case it sounds like that's not an option.

Alister
1973 105 GTV (Alfa #6 of 19 owned)
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post #14 of 34 (permalink) Old 03-18-2017, 01:42 PM Thread Starter
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Yes to your advice Aggie on getting a curve match from an existing car. Maybe I can arrange a meet at Cars and Coffee here in SoCal soon. The part I don't get is the shape of the nose around the headlamp area doesn't seem to match the way the fender curves in toward the nose piece. Maybe my fenders are not curving in correctly.

Anyway I made the cut for my second patch on top and I am part way thru shaping the new piece. The last bit of shaping to pull the outside corner down is proving difficult for me. I am tempted to weld the back side and then pull down since it will be anchored in place. I wonder if that is a valid technique or better to keep taking the patch to the bag and working it?

Gene
'71 GTV 1750 USA SPICA
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post #15 of 34 (permalink) Old 03-18-2017, 09:44 PM
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Looking very good!

I would work the panel first before welding but tack welding and pulling down will work, if you get frustrated.
Pete
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