Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: NY, WA, Russia, etc.
Heater Box Rebuild Part 1 - Removal
This is by far the worst part of the whole rebuild process. The console has to come out, and it is much easier to get on your back up under the dashboard if the seats are out too.
I had bypassed the heater core several months ago, so it was already empty when I went to remove it. This helped a great deal, but some residual coolant still leaked out of the box. I pulled the carpets to clean them since they had already been soiled by the leaking core.
1) Here is the area prepared for removal. Note the water stains running down the tunnel where the coolant had been leaking. You may as well ease removal at this point by taking the slider-levers and their cables off of the flapper-door levers.
2) The heater valve must be removed to access the nuts which attach the heater core to the underside of the cowl. This is not strictly necessary, but its a very tight squeeze otherwise. This one has seen much better days and had a bunch of crystallized junk inside of it which makes me thing the original owner had put some "leak stop" into the coolant system.
3) These are the two nuts on the driver's side. The camera angle is very funny, so I tried to indicate front using the arrow.
4) Here are the passenger side nuts. The blower motor grounds to the near stud and the presence of the cowl drain tube precludes removing the heater box toward the passenger side. What worked for me was shifting into 4th gear, laying the box on its back, and wroking it out passed the depressed brake and cluthc pedals. It reuires about 3 hands to do it easily, so patience and finesse are the best course of action.