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post #61 of 425 (permalink) Old 11-27-2013, 06:26 PM
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I like your work, and envy having a competent partner to do it with. Does he work in blissful silence, or chatter away all the time? Re-hanging the rear axle on the Monty sure would have been easier with a helping hand.

Don P
Carson City, NV

Past Alfas...
59 102 Touring (first Alfa $500 running)
65 Sprint GT (2nd Alfa, $500 daily driver)
102 Sprint (never did anything with it, but wish I had)
74 Berlina (first new car - now certainly rusted into oblivion)
61 Giulietta Spider G-Prod Race Car (where is it now?)
84 Spider Veloce (rarely drove it, so sold it)
86 Quadrifoglio (Dull car - no more 115s for me)
1971 Montreal "The Full Monty". Fair winds and following seas

Current Alfas
59 102 Touring Roadster - restoration complete, enough Alfa for any rational man. Or irrational, for that matter
Oops. Add to the "present" list, 10204 01488, 2000 Touring Roadster project

And past...
Two 1946 Stampe SV4C (c/n 294 "Rocinante" - wife's favorite airplane. RIP), and c/n 235 "La Bon Temps Femme" (gone to a new home, but never forgotten)
Zlin 50LA (+9 -6 gees, titanium spar, 1200 lbs, 260HP rumored to now be in Brazil)
1946 Luscombe 8A
Starduster Too (recently spotted at the Nevada City, CA airport - over 20 years and an entire continent separating it from our stewardship in Binghamton, NY)
1955 Cessna 170B (wife taught me to fly tailwheel in this)

And present...
64 Mooney M20E ("Rambo". My faithful steed for over 40 years) Over 55 years old, and just returned from a trip to Argentina in him
Newest in the fleet
1967 Piper Super Cub on Wipline amphibious floats (a true "all terrain vehicle")
2010 Triumph Thunderbird


You can snap roll an Alfa only one time...
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post #62 of 425 (permalink) Old 11-27-2013, 06:34 PM Thread Starter
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Making gaskets...

We ran down to Alfa Parts Exchange and found a good pump to use (didn't have time to get something new), made a bunch of gaskets (very time consuming) flushed out the block and head and installed the water pump. Dak timed the cams and the injection pump. Everything was reinstalled.

The fuel tank was installed, all rubber lines were replaced, and we changed all the vacuum lines. I'm pleased to say that nothing leaked. No fuel, coolant, or vacuum leaks.
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post #63 of 425 (permalink) Old 11-27-2013, 06:43 PM Thread Starter
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Its the first time that Dak and I have worked on a car when we weren't at the track.

We work together well, chattering is minimal unless we are working on a common problem. I told him that he was in command of the engine bay, and I worked on plumbing, cleaning, gasket making, cleaning, fuel line and filter installation, cleaning, painting and...

cleaning...

and anything else that didn't require space in the engine bay.
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post #64 of 425 (permalink) Old 11-28-2013, 05:23 AM
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Congratulations on getting the phillips bolts out in good shape. They can be a pita and a canidate for the "worst job" thread. Quite a find, I'm jealous.

The passenger seat is 15 miles an hour faster than the drivers seat.

currently
2017 Giulia Q4
74 GTV restored daily driver
71 Berlina in 2L restored driver
the ones that got away:
1959 750 series Giulietta Spider Veloce
1962 Giulietta Spider normale
1965 Giulia Sprint normale
1972 GTV
1974 GTV
1974 GTV
1977 Spider
1974 Spider
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post #65 of 425 (permalink) Old 11-28-2013, 02:39 PM Thread Starter
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The phillips screws were pretty easy. I just picked up a very long shank #3 phillips head bit for my Dewalt drill-driver. Came right out with no problem.

But, its a California car so the ease with which fasteners come loose is probably not common.
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post #66 of 425 (permalink) Old 11-30-2013, 10:05 PM Thread Starter
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Back to Alfa Parts Exchange tomorrow. Looking for a lot of small parts, brake reservoir, driver's side mirror, antenna, some SPICA to air box clamps.

I also need to pull the starter and send it to the rebuilder. Battery checked out ok, wiring is ok. The only thing left is the starter itself. Its barely turning the engine over.

I tried bringing the paint back on a couple spots. Doesn't seem to want to clean up and shine. Anyone have any tips on bringing stock Alfa paint back?
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post #67 of 425 (permalink) Old 11-30-2013, 10:22 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by horsewidower View Post
I also need to pull the starter and send it to the rebuilder. Battery checked out ok, wiring is ok. The only thing left is the starter itself. Its barely turning the engine over.
Have you tried putting a booster cable between the engine block and the negative terminal of the battery to see if there's a faulty or missing ground strap between the engine block and the body?

-Ruedi
[SIZE="1"]'63 2600 Touring Spider (AR 191437, the car that started the 2000/2600 International Register, reassembly in progress)
ex-'65 2600 SZ (AR 856043, the car in my avatar, sold as resto project to Austria)
Maintainer of a private 2600 SZ register (not the one in the Netherlands).[/SIZE]
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post #68 of 425 (permalink) Old 12-01-2013, 09:39 AM Thread Starter
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I thought about doing that. Thanks for mentioning it.

Our racecar had a starting problem that was very much like this. We fixed it with a direct ground from the engine block to the battery.
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post #69 of 425 (permalink) Old 12-10-2013, 11:56 AM Thread Starter
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17 days to go!

I haven’t gotten much farther. I had a couple of other things get in the way. But, they were cleared up this weekend.

Full speed ahead.

I’ve taken off from the 20th on. So it’ll get done.

The car continues to start pretty well. However, if you don’t catch it pretty quickly, it’ll flood. I need to get in there and lean it out just a scosh.

Next has been getting the brakes back together. I’m wondering about putting in a new master cylinder, given that everything else will be reconditioned. I suppose I can always just find out when they are back on and working.

I finally figured out how to get the headlights to turn on, but the tail lights aren’t working. So I have some wiring work to do.

The work order sort of looks like this:

Brakes
Caliper rebuild
Reservoir R&R
Blow out all the lines with nitrogen
Replace old flex lines with the new SS ones
Install rotors, calipers, pads
Bleed
Decide whether or not I need a new master
Install new motor mounts
Install new transmission mount
Install driveshaft, determine whether or not to rebuild first (I have the parts)

Finish install of fuel tank
Determine if sender can be made to work. (It doesn’t right now)
Get a new gasket for sender (and new sender if it can’t be repaired)
Get gasket for body to tank flange
Get a new boot for the filler neck
Proper battery installation (does anyone have a diagram or picture of the trunk mount installation, apparently done with the AC installation?)
Determine proper mounting
Clean grounding bolt
Install engine to battery ground?
R&R Electrical
Loose wires under the dash, need to determine what they are for
Loose wires under the column, tail lights?
Check grounds from engine to chassis
Slow starter, check grounds first. It seemed better when I used jumper cables and ground from the engine to the battery
Miscellaneous
Clean, paint and install driver’s side mirror
Clean and install the grille badge
Clean and install the antenna

That should be enough. I’m getting the title and registration stuff dealt with tomorrow.

Bob

Last edited by horsewidower; 12-10-2013 at 03:32 PM.
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post #70 of 425 (permalink) Old 12-10-2013, 10:22 PM Thread Starter
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I went a few rounds with the calipers this evening.

I've been reading up on that work for a while. And, had hoped that I'd avoid the rusted in place pistons that seemed so prevalent.

Wishful thinking.

When I started the evening, one piston was coaxed to move with some air pressure. After hours of c-clamps, PB blaster, torching, more air pressure, more PB blaster, some channel locks, more PB blaster, more c-clamps and more PB blaster I can report the following:

2 pistons actually removed, 6 free'd, and everything still soaking in PB blaster.

The 6 that are free'd up can't be rotated out, yet. I can't get enough purchase on the un-machined part of the piston to pull them out. They do pop loose under pressure. I might have to make a block off plate so that I can get them all out.
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post #71 of 425 (permalink) Old 12-11-2013, 02:43 AM
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Keep going!

Good progress! To get mine out I installed the caliper bleed screw, inserted a piece of soft wood where the rotor would be, about the thickness of the rotor, and applied air pressure to the back of the caliper at the brake line connection opening. The pistons (eventually) would pop forward (with a bang) and contact the piece of wood. I would then remove the air pressure, wrestle the piece of wood out from between the pistons, insert a thinner piece of wood, and repeat until I could get purchase on the pistons to remove them. Don't try removing just one piston in this manner, you have to work them both out simultaneously. And wear eye and face protection. I consider compressed air to be the most dangerous tool in my garage.

Jim
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post #72 of 425 (permalink) Old 12-11-2013, 07:29 AM
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Something I have done in the past with mixed results in to use a rivet gun. After splitting the caliper, the rivet gun is held against a portion of the caliper next to the piston. Use a smooth-faced "flush" bucking tool in the gun. The rapid acceleration of the caliper body essentially forces the piston back toward the rivet gun. The vibrations seems to help break loose rust and other such hindrances.

I have also broken away chunks of old cast iron wheel cylinder body doing this, but they were much thinner material than a caliper, and had significant rust penetration. So much rust, in fact, that the cylinders really were not salvageable.

Don P
Carson City, NV

Past Alfas...
59 102 Touring (first Alfa $500 running)
65 Sprint GT (2nd Alfa, $500 daily driver)
102 Sprint (never did anything with it, but wish I had)
74 Berlina (first new car - now certainly rusted into oblivion)
61 Giulietta Spider G-Prod Race Car (where is it now?)
84 Spider Veloce (rarely drove it, so sold it)
86 Quadrifoglio (Dull car - no more 115s for me)
1971 Montreal "The Full Monty". Fair winds and following seas

Current Alfas
59 102 Touring Roadster - restoration complete, enough Alfa for any rational man. Or irrational, for that matter
Oops. Add to the "present" list, 10204 01488, 2000 Touring Roadster project

And past...
Two 1946 Stampe SV4C (c/n 294 "Rocinante" - wife's favorite airplane. RIP), and c/n 235 "La Bon Temps Femme" (gone to a new home, but never forgotten)
Zlin 50LA (+9 -6 gees, titanium spar, 1200 lbs, 260HP rumored to now be in Brazil)
1946 Luscombe 8A
Starduster Too (recently spotted at the Nevada City, CA airport - over 20 years and an entire continent separating it from our stewardship in Binghamton, NY)
1955 Cessna 170B (wife taught me to fly tailwheel in this)

And present...
64 Mooney M20E ("Rambo". My faithful steed for over 40 years) Over 55 years old, and just returned from a trip to Argentina in him
Newest in the fleet
1967 Piper Super Cub on Wipline amphibious floats (a true "all terrain vehicle")
2010 Triumph Thunderbird


You can snap roll an Alfa only one time...
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post #73 of 425 (permalink) Old 12-11-2013, 11:16 AM
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Grease gun. Will even thread straight into the bleeder hole and then easy to get the pistons old by using pieces of wood to stop the piston you don't want to move.
Pete

'71 1750 Series 2 GTV:
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post #74 of 425 (permalink) Old 12-11-2013, 12:56 PM Thread Starter
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Last night's work.

..........
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post #75 of 425 (permalink) Old 12-11-2013, 03:38 PM
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Bob - I second the use of a grease gun. Much easier than using an air hose, and because grease is a liquid which won't compress, it forces the piston to move out of the bore. Learned about this trick on a Porsche 914 forum when I was rebuilding the brakes on a Porsche 914 that had sat in a barn for 27 years. Worked perfectly. Only drawback is that you have to clean the grease out of the caliper body, which is a bit messy. Porsche 914's use the same style ATE brake calipers as Alfa used in the 1970's. If you want to buy some perfectly rebuilt/remanufactured calipers that are a work of art, see the PMB Performance website. He even re-plates them (iincluding the brake pad hardware) as original. Expensive, but worth it. Mike D.
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