Refurbishing My 74 - Page 5 - Alfa Romeo Bulletin Board & Forums
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post #61 of 617 (permalink) Old 01-07-2013, 06:43 PM Thread Starter
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Progress Today!

It was sorta warm outside today, except when the wind blew, so I worked on the front suspension. I was able to get everything back together except the tie rods and shocks. I will install them tomorrow.Name:  LR Frnt B4 BB.jpg
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I like before and after pics, they're inspirational.
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The rotors were turned and then I installed new bearings and a new seal.

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The calipers went out today to Eric at PMB to be rebuilt and refinished. The brakes were working fine before I started the refurbishing but figured that they should be brought up to the same level as the rest of the car.

Gary
74 Spider - Completed; Tuning Weber's
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post #62 of 617 (permalink) Old 01-07-2013, 07:08 PM
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Niiiice!!!

1984 Moto Morini 3 1/2 Sport
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PAST RIDES(abbreviated list): 1969 Spider 1750, 1969 Berlina x2, 1974 Spider x2, 1979 Spider, 1982 Spider x2, 2001 Jaguar XJR, 2011 BMW 328i, 2002 BMW R1150R, 2004 BMW Rockster Edition80 169/2003, 1968 Firebird Convertible, 1968 BMW 1600
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post #63 of 617 (permalink) Old 01-07-2013, 07:49 PM
Subscribed. Nice work, Gary!

The Brad Davisson Memorial Scholarship Fund:

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post #64 of 617 (permalink) Old 01-09-2013, 06:42 PM Thread Starter
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Smile Guess What I did today while it was 60 degrees

Got into the rear end work today. Weather was really nice and predicted to be in 70's on Saturday and Sunday so I am trying to wrap up the outside work.

Was able to get the rear end out and the 3 of 4 new bushings in the trailing arms.

I followed Vin's sticky to get the trailing arms out. that was really straight forward and quick. Getting the differential and rear axles out was a bit more involved. No photos of the process but it involved using my hydraulic car jack and then swinging the rear end to free it from the trunnion. I disconnected the brake line and emergency brake cable before hand.
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post #65 of 617 (permalink) Old 01-09-2013, 06:51 PM Thread Starter
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Write This Down !!!!

After removing the differential the next task was to remove the limit straps. According to some posts, this is a real bear to get out because of the aluminum block with the steel screws through it.

So I got out my BFH and IMPACT Driver and my jack just in case I had to lower the car onto the screw driver to get more pressure and avoid stripping the Phillips head.

Well.............................................. ......the screws were a little bit more than finger tight. I just unscrewed them with a screw driver. Go figure. Write it down, on thing went right. Did not find any evidence of antisieze so no credit to the PO's.

Was able to clean the swing arms up in my blast cabinet, they just fit. The rest I will do with a wire brush. I plan on using POR15 on them.
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74 Spider - Completed; Tuning Weber's
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post #66 of 617 (permalink) Old 01-09-2013, 07:02 PM Thread Starter
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Oops I broke it

It was bound to happen sooner or later. I was careful cause I knew the swing arms were fairly fragile. When replacing the bushings one needs to be real careful about supporting the back side. Problem with the swing arms is they have little returns and bends on the edges making it difficult. The thickness of the sleeves that hold the bushings is very slim so support has to be right.

I got the large ones out and new ones back in without any issues. The small ones at the end with the spring pans were tougher. I had to get a special socket, turned out 24mm was perfect fit to push them out but had a brain fart on the support beneath.

Bottom line, on the first one I tried to push out, I cracked the brazed joint at the end. I left that one out and will take it to the weld shop tomorrow to re-braze it. I don't have the tools to do that job at home. The crack is on the right hand side on the top portion.Name:  Cracked Braze.jpg
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Also, the HF 10 ton press was a must for this job. Would not want to try it with just a vise. Once you get the right accessories and line things up, the bushing pushed out and in without much drama.Name:  Trailing Arm Press.jpg
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Thought I would show the rear springs that are going back in. One other surprise was a pair of red konis the PO had installed.Name:  CL & Stock Spring.jpg
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Gary
74 Spider - Completed; Tuning Weber's
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post #67 of 617 (permalink) Old 01-09-2013, 07:06 PM
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New brake discs are not expensive BTW ... not worth turning the old ones IMO.

Nice work.
Pete

'71 1750 Series 2 GTV:
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156 Series 1 v6 ... and remember it's all just opinions
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post #68 of 617 (permalink) Old 01-09-2013, 07:15 PM Thread Starter
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Front ones are fine. I will put new ones on the rear. Also have both front and rear calipers out to PMB for rebuilding and replating.

Gary
74 Spider - Completed; Tuning Weber's
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post #69 of 617 (permalink) Old 01-10-2013, 03:33 PM Thread Starter
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Monsai52 asked about the power washing details so I thought I would include a couple of photos showing the products I use and like along with the equipment.

Today was warm so after I took the broken trailing arm to the welder, I started to clean the underside of the car. The rear end is out, the gas tank is out so there is plenty of access.

The products I use and like are:
Marine Clean, Aqua and Super Clean. I think these three have the same make up as they are industrial strength detergents. The only one available locally for me is the Super Clean (Advance Auto). I have tried Purple Cleaner and Green Cleaner and have not been impressed with their ability to cut through the grease. The $10 gallon of Super Clean was 10 times more effective than the $14/2gal of Purple cleaner. BTW, all of the products are biodegradable.Name:  Cleaners.jpg
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I mixed the Aqua cleaner, 5 parts very hot water to 1 part cleaner. Then I took a couple of scrub brushes and some scotch brite pads, long rubber gloves and crawled under the car. I scrubbed the existing dirty undercoating, etc with the brushes and scotch brite. Water ran down my sleeves and the whole process was not real effective.

I next used the Super Clean at full strength and applied with the small bottle pressure sprayer in the photo. This was essentially a prewash and it immediately started to drip dirty over the same areas I had just scrubbed by hand. I'm liking this action.!

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I then took my power washer and hooked up the Super Clean to the siphon and applied another treatment to the entire underside including the back portion. I was amazed at the amount of dirt that started to drip off. I let that soak for several minutes and changed tips on the power washer to a more concentrated higher pressure. I then spayed the entire underside several times at close range to wash the Super Clean off. I cleaned until the water drops were no longer dirty.

I am hopeful that it will dry tonight and some time later tomorrow I can get underneath and start painting. I plan on using the Eastwood Rust Encapsulator paint. This is a flat black, it has great adhesion to almost any surface and can be sprayed over top with out prep. the POR15 would require a preparation of some kind for an overcoat. My painter will spray the underside with a black epoxy primer and that will apply overtop the Eastwood product. When I get the car back from the painter, I will apply some flexible undercoating.

Assuming the weather holds for us here in Atlanta (No rain), I should get the painting done tomorrow and the rear end suspension installed on Saturday.

I will take and post photos of the underside tomorrow to show how the cleaner worked.

Gary
74 Spider - Completed; Tuning Weber's
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post #70 of 617 (permalink) Old 01-11-2013, 04:06 AM
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Keep up the good work!
We're also working on a silver Spider: www.facebook.com/AlfaSpiderRestauratie

Like our Spider project page: www.facebook.com/AlfaSpiderRestauratie
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post #71 of 617 (permalink) Old 01-11-2013, 05:36 AM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by AlfaSpiderNL View Post
Keep up the good work!
We're also working on a silver Spider: www.facebook.com/AlfaSpiderRestauratie
AlfaSpiderNL,
My work does not compare to yours. You have a nuts and bolts level restoration going on. Very nice work.

I must say that you have two significant advantages, a garage to work in and a rotisserie to support the body.

You are doing a really nice job and will have a better than new Spider when finished, very impressive.

Gary
74 Spider - Completed; Tuning Weber's
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post #72 of 617 (permalink) Old 01-12-2013, 02:34 AM
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Thanks Gary, without the garage and rotisserie it would be impossible but the most important thing to have is the drive to finisch the job. That will take some years (weekends work only) but it's fun!

Like our Spider project page: www.facebook.com/AlfaSpiderRestauratie
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post #73 of 617 (permalink) Old 01-12-2013, 04:58 AM
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Gary,

You have a great restoration thread. I'm replacing trailing arm bushings, and have had the same problems as you with supporting the back side of the bushing area. Can you elaborate on what you used for support?. The 2nd picture in post #66 appears to show a plastic plumbing pipe fitting. If so, was this strong enough to resist the bushing removal force?

I have an old set of trailing arms from a '71 spider to set up as replacement parts, and the bushings are very difficult to remove - even with my new Harbor Freight 12 ton press.


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George Schweikle

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post #74 of 617 (permalink) Old 01-12-2013, 05:25 AM
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An alternative to pressing the bushings out is to use a pneumatic reciprocating saw (or maybe a keyhole saw) to cut through the rubber and allow the inside "half" of the bushing to be removed. Then use a hacksaw to carefully cut through the outer race of the bushing so that it can be collapsed and driven out.

Certainly this approach is more work and not as much fun as using the press but it avoids stressing and possibly breaking the brazed joint.

Rich Hanning
'65 Sprint GT, '78 Spider, '88 Quad
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post #75 of 617 (permalink) Old 01-12-2013, 07:19 AM Thread Starter
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Pressing out da Bushings

George,

Sorry I forgot to include more details about the pressing. As you know, the trailing arm bushings have different diameters at each end.

The forward end is larger and has less interference, no spring pan, and I was able to use the plates that came with the press to support the area around the bushing sleeve. My plates have half holes and notches cut in them and I was able to get in close to the edge of the sleeve around most of the perimeter, no problem.

For arbors, I literally took my digital micrometer and the new bushings and measured the diameters. Then I took them all to Lowes and went through their tool area measuring the OD of their sockets until I found some that would slip through the sleeve and still bear on the metal edge of the bushing. I bought a 1-1/2"' ,32mm & 34mm.

I tried the same support setup on the smaller bushings and managed to crack a portion of the braze so back to Lowes. Found that the 1-1/2" schedule 40 plastic bushing had the perfect ID to support the perimeter of the sleeve. The plastic is pretty tough and the schedule 40 is thick. The force just puts the material in compression and this is its greatest strength. I had no problems with that set up.

I did take the trailing arm to the local welding shop and had them put a bead around the area where the braze broke. Did this on both sides of bushing. It is now stronger than original. I didm't trust myself to do that with my Mig welder altough I am sure it could handle the job.

Regarding cutting out the sleeves with a hacksaw, that will let you get the bushings out without using a press but you still have to support the sleeve area when you press the new bushings back in.

Also, don't forget to use some antisieze on the bushings before you press them in.

This wasn't nearly as tough as the front suspension. I did spend more time chasing arbors and such though.

Gary
74 Spider - Completed; Tuning Weber's
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