Refurbishing My 74 - Page 4 - Alfa Romeo Bulletin Board & Forums
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post #46 of 614 (permalink) Old 11-30-2012, 04:32 PM Thread Starter
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Side Markers

I noticed that I forgot to show the side marker treatment.

The plan was to weld them up and install euro lights in the front. My painter suggested lapping the filler piece on the inside and then he would apply a little filler to the area. This is a bit different from trying butt welds. As I mentioned before, my success at butt welding when I cannot get to the back side to clean the existing panel has been poor. I normally blow holes through the edges when trying that technique. No problem on good clean edges.
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post #47 of 614 (permalink) Old 11-30-2012, 04:40 PM Thread Starter
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Front Side Markers

I did the front side markers the same way but included a second small piece in the center. This is to support the euro lights. I didn't want the light to be supported by filler. I spot welded the pieces on the bench then drilled them for the Euro markers and then welded them in place. This was one of the easier jobs as far as welding and fit up goes.

While I was welding these in place I also welded up the pop rivet holes from the after market side trim.
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post #48 of 614 (permalink) Old 11-30-2012, 05:10 PM
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Gary,

Thank you for the details... very helpful. I have an '82 shell that has been crunched in the front. It also has some rust in the right rocker. I have a running '77 that is a blast to drive but is fairly rusty and was hit in the right rear quarter. My dilemma is whether it is even feasible for me to fix either one using metal from the other. I really want to learn to do some metal repair and minor fabrication but need to be realistic. Anyway, your thread is an inspiration. I look forward to your future posts.

Rich Hanning
'65 Sprint GT, '78 Spider, '88 Quad
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post #49 of 614 (permalink) Old 11-30-2012, 05:57 PM Thread Starter
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Rich,

I would say go for it especially if you can find a body guy to be your adviser from time to time. If you line up your painter ahead of time, I am sure he will help with your questions.

The only down side of doing sheet metal work is the amount of time it takes to do it properly, especially if you are learning. While you are doing it, your ride will be unavailable. That's the problem for me, nothing to drive while I am working on the car. I have to live vicariously through the BB

Just be realistic with the time commitment and make sure you have a good work space.

You sound like you will enjoy learning new skills.

Gary
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post #50 of 614 (permalink) Old 12-02-2012, 05:14 PM Thread Starter
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Engine Bay Work

I worked on the engine bay the past few days.
The Burman Box and Brake Booster were removed. The M/C had failed and had filled the booster with fluid. That leaked down onto the engine bay and created quite a mess. The only way to properly address the preparation was to remove the parts to gain access to the sheet metal.

I found a mess behind the Burman box.

After cleaning the area I decided that the best way to treat the engine bay was to take the paint off down to bare metal and then treat it with POR15. I'll let the painter top coat the POR15 with the finish color. The problem is the area behind the steering box and booster. Both of these need to be installed before I take the car to the painter and the area behind them must be treated now.

And while everything is out and "While I am There", the brake M/C needs to be replaced and the Burman Steering Box will be inspected and rebuilt.
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post #51 of 614 (permalink) Old 12-02-2012, 05:23 PM Thread Starter
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Engine Bay First Cleaning After Stripping

This is what the engine bay looks like now after a cleaning and power washing.
A few more hours of cleaning and preparation and it will be ready for the POR15.

I used Cap'n Lees Stripper to remove the paint. It was sprayed on. Next time I will brush it on in the corners and other hard to get to areas to avoid the over spray issues.

Start to finish on this was about 3 hours.
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post #52 of 614 (permalink) Old 12-07-2012, 06:19 PM Thread Starter
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Engine Bay Painted

Was able to get the Burman box apart and took the worm gear to the machine shop so they could dress the bearing surface at the end of the shaft. That left me some time to deal with the engine bay today.

I gave it a second treatment of paint remover on Wednesday followed by scrubbing, power washing and then washing with Marine Clean and a scrub brush, power washing and then Metal Prep treatment followed by an aggressive rinse. It was a long day.

It dried on Thursday and today it was warm enough to paint with POR15. It came out quite nice, man what a difference. I still have a few minor items plus the suspension rework to address before I strip the rest of the paint.

Tomorrow I will pull the front suspension off and repaint and rebuild it. With the engine out, the task will be easier. No point in waiting until after the exterior is painted and risking scratches.
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post #53 of 614 (permalink) Old 12-08-2012, 05:31 AM
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Wow! That really transformed the engine bay. Thanks for including the names of products you are using... very helpful for those of us planning similar work.

What, if anything, are you planning to do with the underside of the body (maybe I missed that post)?

Rich Hanning
'65 Sprint GT, '78 Spider, '88 Quad
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post #54 of 614 (permalink) Old 12-08-2012, 06:13 AM Thread Starter
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Body Underside

Rich,
The new metal I have installed on the floor areas has been prepped and treated with POR15 on both sides after completing the replacement. I have power washered the underside but admittedly have not tried to remove the flexible coating where the existing metal is sound.

My plan for treating the entire underside is a couple of coats of flexible undercoating. I will apply this after I have cleaned and treated any additional signs of exposed steel or rust with POR15.

I believe I have all of the rusted materials removed and replaced on the underside. All of the fender splash guards are out and will be cleaned, repaired or replaced where required, POR15, and sprayed with flexible coating before reinstallation.

I am not sure how to treat the underside of the fenders yet. I may use flexible coating there too. I will discuss with my painter first.

Gary
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post #55 of 614 (permalink) Old 12-11-2012, 07:25 AM Thread Starter
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Front Suspension

While the engine is out and before painting, I thought it would be a good time to address the suspension. I have a poly rebuild kit in hand with new ball joints, bearings, etc. I followed the "Front Suspension For Dummies" thread that Vin wrote. Excellent guide for those that are about to do this work. I am following Lokki's comments and using polyon the front and OEM rubber on the rear trailing arms and sway bar. The trunnion will be poly. Also plan on upper adjustable arms on the upper ball joint. The inner bushing comes as rubber and will be replaced with a steel bearing like used in the wishbone ends. Also, while I am there, the rubber brake lines will be replaced and the front rotors will be turned and new wheel bearings will go back in. Shocks will be Koni Reds and tires are new Yoko's 185/70/14 on Turbino rims.

Wheel wells will be cleaned and then painted with flexible undercoating.

I used the Pitman Arm puller and the HF 12 ton bench press to disassemble the parts. The whole process went very smoothly. Parts have been cleaned and will be bead blasted and painted today. I plan on using an etching primer and then rattle can rustoleum satin black. Contemplated using POR15 here but thought the touch up later on would be easier with rustoleum. Saw a few posts from others that have used rustoleum so it seems like it works.

I have Centerline sport springs to go back in and have posted a question on the suspension forum about ride height experiences and whether I should consider installing shims.

A few before and in process photos follow;
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post #56 of 614 (permalink) Old 12-11-2012, 07:38 AM Thread Starter
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Front Suspension

Few more photos in process.

The HF press paid for itself today. Pressing out the bearings was very simple. I will paint the parts before pressing in the new ones.

The ball joints were shot; you could actually feel play in them. The bearings in the wish bone ends were also shot and I expect the tie rod ends to be toast as well. Pretty sure they have never been replaced or greased since new.

Should be a nice driver when everything is finished.
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post #57 of 614 (permalink) Old 12-14-2012, 06:55 PM Thread Starter
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Wheel Well & Suspension Progress

Used Marine Clean, scotch brite pads, a couple of brushes and the power washer to clean the wheel wells. Did three iterations including hand and power washing with Purple Power.

This is the wheel well before the final wash and after some preliminary power washes to clean it before starting to work on it.

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After cleaning and waiting a day for it to dry, I painted the portion that will be covered up by the suspension. Used Eastwood Rust Encapsulator. The balance of the area will be sprayed black by my painter when he paints the rest of the car.
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Worked on cleaning up the wish bone parts. They were all cleaned and bead blasted. The hardware was replated with the Eastwood zinc kit. Spring pans were treated with Black POR15. The wish bone parts were painted with Eastwood Rust Encaosulator. I assembled them and them applied two coats of their Chassi Black. I will post final pictures of the completed parts later. The photo shows everything cleaned and blasted and the spring pans before and after cleaning and bead blasting.

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The stabilizer arms were in rough shape. The OEM rubber bushing were seized in place. Also, note to file.There are different size bushings for these short arms arms depending upon the year. I understand that 77 and earlier use 30mm bushings and 78 and older use 33mm bushings. I ended up with 33mm bushings and will need get the smaller ones.

By the way, what is the best way to get the seized metal portion of the busing out of the rod ends? I may try a small chisel. that worked pretty ell on the stabilizer bar after I cut a small groove with the dremel.
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This is a close up of the wheel well after I applied the Eastwood Rust Encapsulator. I recleaned the area with their pre-painting and degreaser before paint application.
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Gary
74 Spider - Completed; Tuning Weber's
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post #58 of 614 (permalink) Old 12-15-2012, 05:20 AM
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Very impressive. You've mentioned power washing several times, what are you using to power wash?

Best regards,
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post #59 of 614 (permalink) Old 12-15-2012, 07:15 PM Thread Starter
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Tie Rod Work

Worked on the tie rods and idler box today. Got them cleaned and blasted. Bushings in the idler show normal wear, very slight. No play or slop so it will go back together after it is painted.
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Was able to get the bumpers installed. Use a 6" C clamp, some dawn liquid soap, a flat screw driver and small hammer. Soaped up the fitting and put the clamp on to squeeze the protrusion into the opening. Then pushed the edge in with the screw driver, got two corners in and twisted the bumper and C Clamp and the bumper slipped right into the opening. Easy with the right tool.
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Next step is to clean up the rotors, calipers and other wheel components.
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Gary
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post #60 of 614 (permalink) Old 01-06-2013, 02:06 PM Thread Starter
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Front Suspension Parts

We had lots of great company over the Christmas season and the Alfa work was put on the back burner.

The front suspension parts are all assembled and ready to go back into the car. If it gets above 45 degrees tomorrow, I will see if I can get both sides finished.

There sure were a lot of parts to deal with.
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