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79 GT drive shaft work

4K views 13 replies 10 participants last post by  slowcreek 
#1 ·
Changing drive shaft donuts...

So I pried off the drive shaft.....was not easy. "Ha, what is..." Unscrewing the first half.....and I need a 25mm or 26mm deep dwell socket to pull off the old drive shaft support. Turn it around to start on first donut.....well got the retainer clip off and spring and it still won't come off! WTH....any ideas?? Thanks Tom
P.S it's a 79 Alfetta GT
 
#3 ·
Changing drive shaft donuts...
So I pried off the drive shaft.....was not easy. "Ha, what is..." Unscrewing the first half.....and I need a 25mm or 26mm deep dwell socket to pull off the old drive shaft support. Turn it around to start on first donut.....well got the retainer clip off and spring and it still won't come off! WTH....any ideas?? Thanks Tom
P.S it's a 79 Alfetta GT
 
#6 ·
Mark the halves before separating them as the shaft is balanced as an assembly.

I think its a 30mm socket.

Put the clip and spring back in. The donut will come off with this on. Do not attempt to remove the bushing. It will break. You really need the factory tool to remove it so it can be used again.

Loosen one of the nuts on the center donut facing the rear when you put it back in it will go easier. Also put the front donut on after you have the shaft in the car right before you slide it into the bellhousing.
 
#4 · (Edited)
Join several radiator hose clamps together to form a compression strap to wrap around the donut.
Tighten them, then try prying it off if that is your issue.
Careful to note all donut orientations, which sides face forward and which sides face back.
If you're referring to the bearing being stuck, that will require a machine press to press the old one off and press the new one on.
When I did mine, I used some lock tight when I reassembled it to make sure those thin lock nuts stayed tight.
They're known to come loose, then they rattle annoyingly when the car is idling.
Also, I hope you marked the alignment of the two halves of your drive shaft.
Good luck with your project.
 
#7 ·
Tom... you are fortunate to have a later edition GT. I have an early 1976 Alfetta GT and I had to buy the donuts on Italian e bay...price very reasonable.....Evidently parts are still available if one looks for them. Will not attempt installation my self but will leave to a professional.....best of luck.
 
#8 ·
Alfetta driveshaft removal

The entire drive shaft should be able to be wiggled out in on piece. It sounds complicated but it works easier than you think except for all the wrenching, that takes time.

After you get the exhaust and heat shield out of the way, start by removing the three nuts and washers from the front giubo, connected to the engine flywheel. You don’t need to remove the other three nuts, bolts and washers until you get the whole drive shaft out. Keep track of the nuts and bolts to make sure they go back the same way. It also helps if you have a bar jammed in somewhere to keep the drive shaft from spinning while youre wrenching. You will need to rotate the drive shaft to locate and reach each nut. You can easily do this with the wrench while the car is in neutral or in gear with the wheels, if its on a lift. The driveshaft constantly spins with the engine, so when you rotate it, it may build up compression. Of course you can remove the spark plus if needed but its not usually necessary. Second, remove rear giubo three nuts, bolts & washers that connect to the rear flywheel flange. Its OK if you remove all six on both ends but its just more work under the car. Third, remove the two nuts & washers holding the center support up and drop center support.

Next, you can try to lever the rear giubo down and out with a pry bar but its easier to remove the four large stud bolts on either side that attach the rear dedion cross member to the frame. You will need to have a jack or brace supporting the dedion, but with that loose the dedion can swing just enough out of the way on its rear support like a pivot. Its still connected by the shocks and rear pivot mount. You may want to check the rear transmission mounts at this time. Now you can pry the front giubo & work the entire drive shaft backward bit by bit, while sort of flexing the drive shaft down and away from the rear dedion. You have to remove the two bolts mounting the bell housing & the shift linkage assembly, as well.

After you get it out, make sure to mark the orientation between the two pieces before you disconnect the center, and insure they go back the same way for balance. Test fit the front giubo onto the flywheel to make sure it’s the right one. Also, keep the front band on the new giubo, it helps to guide it back onto the engine side easier.

Once the drive shaft is all together again, with all three giubos in place, work the drive shaft back into place onto the front flywheel. Dont attach the front giubo nuts yet, because you will need to remove the band before its all the way in. After you removed the band, try levering the center mount and rear giubo back in to place. You can slowly raise the dedion and replace the four mounting studs, loosely. You should be able to reattach the 3 rear bolts & nuts in the right order, then the 3 front nuts and then the center mount all loosely. Check for free rotation and then snug it all up and reattach the bell housing and shift linkage.
 
#12 ·
I'm not exactly clear where your problem lies. But I do know the donut is shipped with a steel band around it. Do not remove that band until after the donut is installed (cut the steel band). To remove the old donut it helps to put a large hose clamp around it (or connect 3 or 4 hose clamps together) to compress the rubber and allow it to slide off the mounting bolts.

If you're struggling with something else, please try to describe it again - and post a photo.
 
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