Getting my GTV6 back on the road (was: Timing Belt Change Problem) - Page 3 - Alfa Romeo Bulletin Board & Forums
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post #31 of 38 (permalink) Old 04-02-2019, 07:11 PM
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I ran a number 4 welding cable from one of the starter bolts all the way back to the battery. Starter flat zings...of course it might have also been because I had the starter rebuilt.

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You're kidding, another one?! 1984 GTV6 Maratona
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You didn't...oh yes I did. '73 Berlina graduate course in rust repair. No thread yet, don't want to piss off the GTV
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post #32 of 38 (permalink) Old 04-02-2019, 07:15 PM
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Oh, and if you are going to have a local shop rebuild the starter, there are some complications. If not done properly, the starter will run on when you turn the key back to run. My local shop had to get parts from Brazil to get it done correctly. There are a couple of threads about the problem here on the BB.
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You're kidding, another one?! 1984 GTV6 Maratona
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You didn't...oh yes I did. '73 Berlina graduate course in rust repair. No thread yet, don't want to piss off the GTV
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post #33 of 38 (permalink) Old 04-03-2019, 04:09 AM Thread Starter
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If I'm going through the trouble to replace the starter, I'm likely going to put in a new gear reduction type from Vick's or Centerline.

Although, if I can find one in my father-in-law's barn, I may cheap out and use it.

First thing I'm going to do is leave the charger on the battery all day today and see what happens when I try to start it tonight.
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-Chuck
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post #34 of 38 (permalink) Old 04-08-2019, 07:27 PM Thread Starter
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Do you have the heat shield between the cat and the driveshaft tunnel installed?
Yes, but I can't see my reflection in mine!

As for the starter, after making sure the battery was fully charged, and all connections were good, the unpleasant sound continued. So, I'm off to replace the starter. I've got a rebuilt one - hopefully it was done right and the run-on condition doesn't happen. If so, I'll be taking the current dead one down to the local rebuilder and having him work on it. Although I might still spring for the gear reduction one. Depends on the price to rebuild it.

All that leads me to a question - I've gotten all of the bolts and nuts off of the manifold, top and bottom. How does the darn thing come off? It's free of the head, but seems to be stuck on the downpipe. I've sprayed copious amounts of PB Blaster on the joint and am letting it sit. Is there any other trick I should know? I'll get to do this joint again at some point. The pipes are flattened, plus I'm sure the cat is dead.

-Chuck
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post #35 of 38 (permalink) Old 04-08-2019, 08:08 PM
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Some judicious flailing with a BRM (big rubber mallet) may help to loosen the bonds of rust that build over time. Also, you may want to loosen the various attaching points of the cat so that you can manipulate the downpipe/cat arrangement to try and pull it free. It is not the easiest joint to separate. Or, put back together.

Shine that shield!!! LOL

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But wait there's more: View my 164LS thread:
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You're kidding, another one?! 1984 GTV6 Maratona
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You didn't...oh yes I did. '73 Berlina graduate course in rust repair. No thread yet, don't want to piss off the GTV
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post #36 of 38 (permalink) Old 04-09-2019, 07:04 AM
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Quote:
Oh, and if you are going to have a local shop rebuild the starter, there are some complications. If not done properly, the starter will run on when you turn the key back to run. My local shop had to get parts from Brazil to get it done correctly. There are a couple of threads about the problem here on the BB.
The currently available solenoids are dimensionally a little different from the original ones. A little spacer (can be just washers) is required between the solenoid and the starter body. Heat from the exhaust certainly cooked mine so make sure that the heat shield is intact and that there are no exhaust leaks on the manifold flanges.

Ed Prytherch
79 Spider
85 GTV6 3L
76 Suzuki GT500

A little government and a little luck are necessary in life, but only a fool trusts either of them. - P.J. O'Rourke
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post #37 of 38 (permalink) Old 04-15-2019, 07:40 PM Thread Starter
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I got the manifold off with another soaking of PB Blaster, loosening the pinch bolts at the center muffler, and some whacking with a rubber mallet and an extension at the manifold/downpipe joint.

The heat shield looks to be in good shape - no flaking material or egregious rust. I might give it the Horsewidower treatment and polish it, just so something under the hood is spiffy. Even if you can't see it.

Turns out the rebuilt starter I picked up fairly inexpensively had the wrong solenoid. Not the run-on condition one, a 4 wire one, I think for a 164. If it works for one Alfa V6, it'll work for all of them, right? It bolts up fine, so I've got that going for me.

I found a spare starter in my father-in-law's garage, but testing showed it to be on its last legs, so I'm debating pulling one of the solenoids from an old starter to put on the rebuilt one. I'm not sure how to test the solenoid to make sure it's still in decent shape prior to putting into service. The other thought is to get the proper solenoid and install it. One question about this - how thick of a shim is needed to prevent the run-on condition? The thread I found about this didn't answer that.

I plan on rebuilding one starter so my f-i-l and I have spare on hand, if needed.

So, lots of work, no progress.

-Chuck
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post #38 of 38 (permalink) Old 04-15-2019, 07:57 PM
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The shim on mine is 2.8 mm

Ed Prytherch
79 Spider
85 GTV6 3L
76 Suzuki GT500

A little government and a little luck are necessary in life, but only a fool trusts either of them. - P.J. O'Rourke
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