No Dash and Tail Lights/GTV6 - Alfa Romeo Bulletin Board & Forums
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post #1 of 20 (permalink) Old 03-06-2017, 02:04 PM Thread Starter
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No Dash and Tail Lights/GTV6

Hey Guys,

I have a 1984 GTV6. The other night, my dash lights and my tail lights both simultaneously stopped working. I went right to the fuse box (#10 fuse, right?), but all the fuses appear to be intact and in good shape (I did replace all of them 2 years ago, so they're all fairly new). Does anyone have any ideas what may have caused this problem? If it's not a fuse, then what? I'd appreciate any advice, because I'm stumped!
Steve
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post #2 of 20 (permalink) Old 03-06-2017, 04:00 PM
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Even if it looks OK, I'd suggest replacing the fuse anyway. Especially the ones with the aluminum strip - somehow they can look OK but fail to allow electrons to flow. I prefer the brass strip fuses. And clean the fuse box contacts too.

If that doesn't fix it check if the connectors in the back of the fuse box are secure. The fuse box can be unhooked, dropped down and turned around to get a look at the back side. There is a plastic cover that snaps off.

Photo is of a Spider fuse box but the GTV6 looks very similar. Note the yellow connector at the bottom that is partly out of position.
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- -~ 1981 GTV-6 ~
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post #3 of 20 (permalink) Old 03-06-2017, 04:03 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Steve Harriott View Post
Hey Guys,

I have a 1984 GTV6. The other night, my dash lights and my tail lights both simultaneously stopped working. I went right to the fuse box (#10 fuse, right?), but all the fuses appear to be intact and in good shape (I did replace all of them 2 years ago, so they're all fairly new). Does anyone have any ideas what may have caused this problem? If it's not a fuse, then what? I'd appreciate any advice, because I'm stumped!
Steve
What Eric said. Get a voltmeter and make sure you have 12v on both sides of the fuse, measure at the connector and not the fuse itself. Just because it's not blown doesn't mean it's making a good connection.

If it's not a fuse or a bad connection, then the next likely culprit would be the column switch.

bs
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post #4 of 20 (permalink) Old 03-06-2017, 05:34 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks Eric and bs - much obliged! I will give those ideas a try and report back-
s
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post #5 of 20 (permalink) Old 03-07-2017, 09:17 AM Thread Starter
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Hi Eric,
I just replaced fuses, and still no dash/tail lights. How does one get that black plastic cover off of the back of the fuse panel? I flipped the fuse panel down, and tried to remove the cover, but....no-go. I know you said it "snaps off," but mine didn't seem to want to come off. I don't want to break anything! Is there a trick to getting it to snap off?
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post #6 of 20 (permalink) Old 03-07-2017, 09:29 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Steve Harriott View Post
Hi Eric,
I just replaced fuses, and still no dash/tail lights. How does one get that black plastic cover off of the back of the fuse panel? I flipped the fuse panel down, and tried to remove the cover, but....no-go. I know you said it "snaps off," but mine didn't seem to want to come off. I don't want to break anything! Is there a trick to getting it to snap off?
It's been a while, but I think there's a catch at the top of the fuse panel. You push the fuse box down (or up?) to release that catch, then the fuse panel rotates forward and down.

Before you do that, you might try running a jumper wire to the correct fuse in the fuse box and send 12v directly to that fuse. See if the lights come on. IIRC, the column switch is in the circuit before the fuse, so if you're not getting 12v to the fuse then I think you might find that your column switch is worn out or has a dirty contact.

bs
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post #7 of 20 (permalink) Old 03-07-2017, 10:41 AM
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Steve, the fuse box is hinged at the top. If you look way up there you will see pins that fit into the hinge holes. You can drop the entire assembly down, rotate it carefully (don't unplug anything...), and get access to the rear like Brian said. The back cover snaps on.

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post #8 of 20 (permalink) Old 03-07-2017, 11:11 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks. I just took a look again, and....I'm still not getting it. I understand that the whole fuse box is on 2 hinges, and drops down. Once dropped down, though, it doesn't appear to rotate from front to back, as you're saying. I also still can't seem to snap that back panel off, either.....

Help....
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post #9 of 20 (permalink) Old 03-07-2017, 11:33 AM
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When I say it drops down, I mean you can not only let it SWING down, you can slide it out of the two pivots at the very top, and lay it down on the floor of the car! All the way down. Then you can flip it over, and unsnap the protective cover on the back. Let's see if I can post a photo or two for you, my friend.

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post #10 of 20 (permalink) Old 03-07-2017, 12:49 PM
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Here ya go...
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post #11 of 20 (permalink) Old 03-07-2017, 12:50 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks Alfaloco! I finally figured it out, dropped it down, turned it around. Nothing seemed amiss, though. All the connectors appeared to be in place and properly lined up.

So.....all back together again, and still not working. Now it's off to see my friend Paul at DiFatta Brothers, I guess.....
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post #12 of 20 (permalink) Old 03-07-2017, 01:00 PM
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You might want to take off the steering column shroud, get access to the combination switch. Get a spray can of electrical contact cleaner, and spray up inside the combo switch. Just maybe some of it will seep into the contacts for the lights, and clean them off. Worst case... you need a new/replacement switch.

We got a good used one a couple of years back from APE. Alfa Parts Exchange. Talk to Larry. (209) 365-1383

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post #13 of 20 (permalink) Old 03-07-2017, 01:10 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks again man - I guess I will give that a try! I do have some contact cleaner on hand-
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post #14 of 20 (permalink) Old 03-07-2017, 01:23 PM
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Did you feed in 12 volts directly like Brian suggested, to the load side of the fuse?

Also, those brass fingers that retain the fuses need to have good contact with the bullet end of the fuse. If they've lost the spring tension, and they're loose, it will affect the circuit. You can bend the bottom one upward gently to increase tension on the fuse. And they have to be clean, too. I mean shiny clean, like with a piece of fine sandpaper.

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post #15 of 20 (permalink) Old 03-08-2017, 05:27 PM
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Dimmer switch (rheostat) was my huckleberry once when dash lights went out. Tail lamps and marker lamps all fed in series from a yellow wire that comes around on drivers side rearward to left taillamps clucter on to pass side etc. Remove plastic cover at rear under hatch, 4-5 little screws, pull back "carpet" back, remove the 90* plug and test for pwr with light or multi-meter. If not getting any, issue is at fuses 9 & 10 most likey. Stick a penny in there (replacing fuse) for testing purposes.
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