1984 Maratona "Ran when parked..." - Page 25 - Alfa Romeo Bulletin Board & Forums
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post #361 of 1043 (permalink) Old 05-02-2018, 05:38 PM
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If you get wear on the inside of the tread, you might need to change the toe in the positive direction just a tad more.
Or drive more aggressively!

Have enjoyed reading this saga horsewidower and pulling for you to get this fine machine performing like it should soon. Thanks for posting all the updates and photos.

Had to laugh about the no brake pads experience. I never drove like that, but accidentally had my daughter pump the brakes to "help" me bleed my BMW brakes with the caliper off...just about launched the piston out of the caliper.
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post #362 of 1043 (permalink) Old 05-02-2018, 06:01 PM Thread Starter
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Or drive more aggressively!



Have enjoyed reading this saga horsewidower and pulling for you to get this fine machine performing like it should soon. Thanks for posting all the updates and photos.



Had to laugh about the no brake pads experience. I never drove like that, but accidentally had my daughter pump the brakes to "help" me bleed my BMW brakes with the caliper off...just about launched the piston out of the caliper.


I've been wrenching since I could hand my Dad a tool. Never did that before.

On reflection, I've decided that perhaps I'm a determined shade tree mechanic but perhaps not a competent one!

Ahhhh, introspection is such a curse. LOL



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You're kidding, another one?! 1984 GTV6 Maratona
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You didn't...oh yes I did. '73 Berlina graduate course in rust repair. No thread yet, don't want to piss off the GTV

You didn't...oh yes I did II. Deposit down on another vehicle...stop the madness!!!
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post #363 of 1043 (permalink) Old 05-02-2018, 09:44 PM Thread Starter
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Well that was a productive couple of hours.

I found an old post from Toonrboy that was quite helpful. It was the sequence to follow if you are pulling the torsion bars from the front. Worked like a charm.



Setup the parts receiving area.


On to the task





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You're kidding, another one?! 1984 GTV6 Maratona
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You didn't...oh yes I did. '73 Berlina graduate course in rust repair. No thread yet, don't want to piss off the GTV

You didn't...oh yes I did II. Deposit down on another vehicle...stop the madness!!!
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post #364 of 1043 (permalink) Old 05-02-2018, 09:54 PM Thread Starter
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I like to let the car hold the parts as long as I can. That way I don't have to try and figure out how to clamp them in a vice. Doesn't always work, but it did a great job for the ball joints.







I removed the two bolts holding the a-arm, interestingly there were two shims behind each pedestal. I'll have to measure everything to see how tall the stack is.

As usual, I thank my lucky stars that California seems to have rust free cars. A couple aggressive whacks with a BRM (big rubber mallet) separated the torsion bar. So here are the results.




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You didn't...oh yes I did. '73 Berlina graduate course in rust repair. No thread yet, don't want to piss off the GTV

You didn't...oh yes I did II. Deposit down on another vehicle...stop the madness!!!
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post #365 of 1043 (permalink) Old 05-02-2018, 10:17 PM
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If you are thinking about installing a stiffer front bar, there can be a problem. The sway bar brackets are bolted to rather a flimsy sheet metal.
The twisting when slow driving over uneven pavement or driveways would tear the metal, requiring repairing and bracing.
It happened with my Sports Sedan with the Shankle suspension. At the same time, it happened with a friend's Coupe.
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post #366 of 1043 (permalink) Old 05-02-2018, 11:09 PM Thread Starter
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Most of what I am currently attempting is a refresh. I want to experience the car "as built" before contemplating any serious change.

But, thanks for the tip, I will keep that in mind.


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You're kidding, another one?! 1984 GTV6 Maratona
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You didn't...oh yes I did. '73 Berlina graduate course in rust repair. No thread yet, don't want to piss off the GTV

You didn't...oh yes I did II. Deposit down on another vehicle...stop the madness!!!
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post #367 of 1043 (permalink) Old 05-03-2018, 05:11 AM
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Andy at Performatek sells strengthening plates for the sway bar mounts, They have to be welded in.

Ed Prytherch
79 Spider
85 GTV6 3L
76 Suzuki GT500
2011 Jaguar XKR

A little government and a little luck are necessary in life, but only a fool trusts either of them. - P.J. O'Rourke
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post #368 of 1043 (permalink) Old 05-03-2018, 05:29 AM
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front end has 35 teeth, the rear 34 teeth. moving only 1 spline 1 end makes for a giant (can't remember exactly but, it is shocking - like 3") of ride height change. need to work both ends to get the ride heights you want. read the factory method. can count splines, move bar to get new marks both ends and get durn near exactly what you want, first time.
if you don't have manual. email me and i'll fwd the appropriate info.
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post #369 of 1043 (permalink) Old 05-03-2018, 08:29 AM Thread Starter
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UPS alert says parts are being delivered today. Woohoo
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You're kidding, another one?! 1984 GTV6 Maratona
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You didn't...oh yes I did. '73 Berlina graduate course in rust repair. No thread yet, don't want to piss off the GTV

You didn't...oh yes I did II. Deposit down on another vehicle...stop the madness!!!
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post #370 of 1043 (permalink) Old 05-03-2018, 09:32 AM
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Originally Posted by barboncino105 View Post
front end has 35 teeth, the rear 34 teeth. moving only 1 spline 1 end makes for a giant (can't remember exactly but, it is shocking - like 3") of ride height change. need to work both ends to get the ride heights you want. read the factory method. can count splines, move bar to get new marks both ends and get durn near exactly what you want, first time.
if you don't have manual. email me and i'll fwd the appropriate info.

When I lowered my GT last fall, I read up on all the different ways possible and ended up doing it Goos Van Pelt's way. here is the link to the youtube video. straight forward and I am happy I didn't have to hurt my brain cells counting splines.

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post #371 of 1043 (permalink) Old 05-03-2018, 09:49 AM
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That only works if going back to the original ride height - or you have done a hundred of them and know how big a change unloaded gives how big a change when loaded.
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post #372 of 1043 (permalink) Old 05-03-2018, 11:00 AM
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That's Wim on the movie worked at Goos van Pelt in the Netherlands
come there already 25 yrs, people with the heart in the right place


Greets Rob GTV6
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post #373 of 1043 (permalink) Old 05-03-2018, 11:27 AM Thread Starter
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I'm still reading, searching and investigating this rebuild. Looks like the biggest PITA will be getting the swaybar (anti-roll) bar link off/on the bar.

I do destruction quite well, so getting it off will probably be a mix of flame, drill, cut and pull. What's the best method to get it back on? I've got a press, various vice, and several BFHs.
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You're kidding, another one?! 1984 GTV6 Maratona
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You didn't...oh yes I did. '73 Berlina graduate course in rust repair. No thread yet, don't want to piss off the GTV

You didn't...oh yes I did II. Deposit down on another vehicle...stop the madness!!!
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post #374 of 1043 (permalink) Old 05-03-2018, 12:01 PM
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pull link off, not quite as simple as sonds because there is not one square surface on the whole thing. is definitely a case for brute force and ignorance.
having said that - could go either of 2 ways... the links slips right off the plastic outer shell leaving intact bushing on bar end. OR will tear off leaving a bloody stump on the bar end.
either way, probably a good idea to replace the end link bushings anyway. will have to drive them off the bar end - but of course, there is no way to get anything behind the bolt tube.... will have to peel off rubber and cut the steel tube w either a dremel or hacksaw. w hacksaw will have to follow a gentle spiral cut. in any case, should not have to cut all the way down through the tube, a partial cut and the tension will (should) release enough for you to push off.

NOTE BENE - if going w new rubber bushings - FIRSTLY (before take anything apart) mark relationship between end link and sway bar so goes back on in a position close to what it was. if not lined up properly, will have to twist the end links (and the bushing rubber) to get the links to go onto the lower control arm mounts. eliminating this keeps internal shear to a minimum.
if going w poly end link bushings, not a concern, can rotate to position easily w no harm done.
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post #375 of 1043 (permalink) Old 05-03-2018, 01:11 PM
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I followed Greg Gordon's method for adjusting the ride height, took a few attempts but was able to bring car down 3/4 or so. Looks nice and improves the handling a bit. With lower a arm off it might be easier. ( or not). As for the sway bar bushing they are a real pita. Get them out as barbancino says. I put polys back in, much easier to work with. Could never figure out how to press in stock Alfa's. Position is crucial with stock and make sure your orientation is correct. They are different angles and need to go back as they came out. Upper a arm bushing I used poly also, as I remember they have spacers that go on either side. Bolt that secures upper is sort of feel your way around. Good luck.
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