Unless the coil wire itself is faulty, I doubt that faulty spark plug wires would cause your engine to completely stall after coming to a stop when warm and then not restart. Bad plug wires tend to cause misfiring under load, not a complete engine stall and no-start (again, unless it's specifically the coil wire and/or connectors). The fact that the engine will eventually stumble and die after merely idling in the garage points to a temperature-related issue with a sensor and/or its wiring, or perhaps something in the fuel pump circuit (the dual relay comes to mind; has this been replaced? The fuel pump wiring is also a known problem with these cars, check voltage directly at the pump when the engine won't start).
First of all, you state that your "digital rev meter was freaking out and bouncing all over the range" before the engine stalled in your garage. What is this, exactly, and what is it connected to? This certainly smacks of an ignition related issue, but a failed ignition component usually causes the engine to instantly stall, not stumble and die . . . .
Which leads me to your statement that after removing the spark plugs, they are "brown," but not wet. Is this immediately after the engine stalls, or after cranking the engine in an attempt to restart? If you are getting fuel but no spark while cranking, the plugs would certainly be wet after a while.
As far as resistance checks are concerned, ohmmeter bench tests of room temperature components are almost completely useless in my experience, especially when chasing an intermittent failure. Electrical components tend to fail when hot and under stress, so check them during those conditions! Luckily for you, the symptom seems to be easily reproduced, so let the engine warm up and stall in your garage with a fuel pressure gauge hooked up. This way, it will be obvious if it is a fuel pressure-related issue. If not, check for spark after the engine stalls either directly by grounding a plug connector or by using a timing light. If all seems well, it is either a fuel mixture issue or something is causing the injectors to not fire.
If so, unplug the coolant temp sensor wires and measure resistance of the sensor. If it is within specs for the current temperature, plug the CTS wires back in and unplug the injection control unit connector and make sure the CTS resistance value is the same as at the sensor. If so, move on. If not, you have a wiring problem. Do the same for the airflow meter, first directly at the sensor at then at the injection control unit connector. If a wiring problem is suspected, check the fuel injection control unit grounds at the bank 1 valve cover, and the main engine ground at the front left of the engine compartment. Otherwise you will have to trace through the above circuits until a problem is found.
If absolutely everything checks out OK *WHILE HOT* (dual relay included), I would try to borrow a (known good) spare injection control unit and see if that works . . . . or kick yours and see if the engine starts