Are my plug wires bad and if so would that cause stalling after the car is hot? - Page 17 - Alfa Romeo Bulletin Board & Forums
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post #241 of 302 (permalink) Old 05-14-2017, 10:14 AM Thread Starter
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I did swap back in the old one, just to see what happens. The car actually gave a little sputter but still no ignition.

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post #242 of 302 (permalink) Old 05-14-2017, 12:42 PM Thread Starter
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Yeah, so I was doing some additional checks, making sure the coolant temp sensor and AFM had continuity to the ECU harness, observing spark and listening for injector cliks while spinning the distributor by hand. All good. Still no start. I went to pull the old Bosch box back out and it was freaking hot. Previously it was warm, but this was hot enough to burn. Then I had the bright idea to grab the coil and literally burned my hand on it. I have it wrapped up in paper towels soaked in aloe and lidocaine. It was like pulling a cast iron pan out of the oven without a mitt. Maybe it was the old amp that was causing this? Or the coil is bad? It's a practically new MSD Blaster 2. I kept the old flaky one one although I don't think I have the ballast anymore. It tended to overheat and shut down the car. No spark. But all of this is making me wonder if there isn't a wiring issue in or around the coil that's causing those components to overhear and/or burn out? I'm still getting clean spark, though, at least turning the dizzy by hand.

So that doesn't seem right to me. Does it to you?

EDIT: Got brave. My multimeter is showing a constant ~7v at the coil terminals with the old box connected and 9v out, to the distributor. With the new amp I still show a constant ~4.5v on the coil terminals, but ~12.5v to the distributor. Coil stays blazing hot regardless which amp is plugged in.

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post #243 of 302 (permalink) Old 05-14-2017, 01:13 PM
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It certainly sounds like ignition module problems. Maybe the original is defective and the replacement is the wrong kind.

If it were my car and I could not find a correct replacement for the original module then I would connect the distributor sensor to a GM HEI module and use it to generate a 12 volt signal that would then fire the new Bosch module and provide a strobe signal for the L-Jet FI. I can draw a schematic if you decide to try it.

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A little government and a little luck are necessary in life, but only a fool trusts either of them. - P.J. O'Rourke
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post #244 of 302 (permalink) Old 05-14-2017, 01:15 PM Thread Starter
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Are my plug wires bad and if so would that cause stalling after the car is hot?

Worth a shot. I'd appreciate the drawing. So far ever single other component has checked out. Multiple times.

And I'd consider putting the whole thing back to stock but those original Bosch amps are rare as hens teeth these days. I spent a couple of months looking for one before going with the modern hardware, which was strongly recommended by other BB'ers. However I got it from flea at and maaaaybe it's not totally compatible.


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post #245 of 302 (permalink) Old 05-14-2017, 05:12 PM
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Gmjohns at post 227 made a generous offer....he might have one.
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post #246 of 302 (permalink) Old 05-14-2017, 05:27 PM
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Background info

Coils get hot when they are subjected to continuous current. The Bosch ignition modules monitor the current and rpm ( I think) and modulate the dwell angle to prevent this overheating. They can also limit the current going to the coil. The fact that your coil gets hot indicates that the module is not doing it's job. It could be defective, or the wrong type or wired incorrectly.
My guess is that the new one is not intended to be used with the inductive sensor in your distributor.
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Ed Prytherch
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2011 Jaguar XKR

A little government and a little luck are necessary in life, but only a fool trusts either of them. - P.J. O'Rourke
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post #247 of 302 (permalink) Old 05-14-2017, 08:47 PM
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I have a spare ignition module that I would be happy to send you that is working properly. We are all vested in this now and must make it right. I'll do my part
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Gmjohns at post 227 made a generous offer....he might have one.
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post #248 of 302 (permalink) Old 05-15-2017, 06:45 AM Thread Starter
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You're a saint. It's the stock silver Bosch box? I'll PM.

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post #249 of 302 (permalink) Old 05-15-2017, 07:08 AM
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It is. Also if it turns out this is the issue, I have a part number for a bmw module that is much easier to find and works perfectly as I am running it now and have for the past year with no issues at all. It wasn't terribly expensive either
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You're a saint. It's the stock silver Bosch box? I'll PM.
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post #250 of 302 (permalink) Old 05-15-2017, 07:20 AM Thread Starter
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Send that along. That would be ideal.

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post #251 of 302 (permalink) Old 05-15-2017, 08:13 AM
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Here is the replacement next to the working unit I am sending you. There are no markings on the case so part # is out but the link/part # I sent to you from Amazon was the unit on the left I purchased in 2014 and still run in the car today without issues
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post #252 of 302 (permalink) Old 05-26-2017, 08:41 AM Thread Starter
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Alright guys, update time. GMJOHNS sent me some additional spare ignition parts, which I've been swapping around.

The good news is it actually started after I changed the amp and the coil! Then it died because I forgot to lock down the distributor and it jumped out of the well. After rotating back to TDC, reinstalling the distributor, and locking it down, I tried again.

So now it's struggling to turn over. It'll crank a few times then uggggggh... not, as thought he battery was dead. But I checked and it's fully charged (has been on a trickle charger while I was waiting for some time to work).

Could it be the ignition switch now, or maybe the starter solenoid? With the sort of cascade of ignition burnouts I experienced I'm wondering if that's not the issue? I might try popping in an ignition relay to see if that helps at all.

Any other ideas? Again, both cams and the crank were correctly aligned, the distributor was on the first wire, everything locked down and signaling.

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post #253 of 302 (permalink) Old 05-26-2017, 09:24 AM Thread Starter
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And now it won't crank at all. The engine turns over easily by hand though. I wired in an ignition relay, getting juice from it back at the fusebox, but no crank. It'll try once then give up.

What the heck, guys? Could it really be a cascading failure, with one bad part burning out another? To be absolutely clear, I've NEVER had this problem prior to this morning. The starter always fired right up... you know, when it was running.

The most frustrating thing is it RAN, however briefly.

Is it too early for vodka???

as good as a car can be... briefly.
'82 GTV6

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post #254 of 302 (permalink) Old 05-26-2017, 09:49 AM
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Incorrect timing - too much advance will cause those symptoms.

Ed Prytherch
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76 Suzuki GT500
2011 Jaguar XKR

A little government and a little luck are necessary in life, but only a fool trusts either of them. - P.J. O'Rourke
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post #255 of 302 (permalink) Old 05-26-2017, 09:53 AM Thread Starter
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Well, just for grins I removed the distributor and it still won't crank.


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as good as a car can be... briefly.
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