Are my plug wires bad and if so would that cause stalling after the car is hot? - Page 14 - Alfa Romeo Bulletin Board & Forums
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post #196 of 302 (permalink) Old 05-07-2017, 05:30 AM
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Contact Reale - Al Mitchell. He built mine.

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post #197 of 302 (permalink) Old 05-07-2017, 09:34 AM
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Validation....

Quote:
Originally Posted by alfaloco View Post
No negativity here...

182 posts, and this ONE is all you contributed to help this Alfa owner? What a useless, condescending response. I disagree with you completely on the usefulness of the Alfa BB. People try to help each other here for all the right reasons. Know what? I think you ought to buy his car... outright... right now... cash deal. Then fix it and sell it back to him, since you're convinced of your superior methodology.
The last 14 posts would seem to make my point...
Which was to get the car to someone who can fix it!
You can take it to 20 shops that don't understand the car and you will have the same result!
There are numerous Alfa Club and BB members not too far away who could recommend a knowledgeable shop or have a hands on look for themselves and give a more informed opinion.

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post #198 of 302 (permalink) Old 05-07-2017, 10:37 AM Thread Starter
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Ive actually been asking around for help from locals for months now but so far no one is willing or able. If I could come into a couple thousand bucks I could have it towed to a guy and just leave it for as long as it takes to get it running, but that's simply out of the question.
It seems the problem is either incredibly simple, like a single bad wire or connection, or incredibly complex, but either way would require possibly days of testing every possible component and many of Jose procedures are either unknown to me, like bypassing and hot-wiring components, I require skills and knowledge I don't have.
Hence the fatalist frustration. I feel like I've gone through every documented process and now it's down to highly specialized knowledge and skill.


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post #199 of 302 (permalink) Old 05-07-2017, 11:20 AM
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Lots of folks call themselves "mechanics" but are just parts changers with little understanding of the systems in a particular car.......

Are you in the local Alfa Club group? There are a lot of very smart folks in the hill country near you.

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post #200 of 302 (permalink) Old 05-07-2017, 11:21 AM Thread Starter
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I just posted a final plea for help there...


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post #201 of 302 (permalink) Old 05-07-2017, 01:28 PM Thread Starter
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Two things. With the distributor out but hooked up the the green wires, turning it produces a rapid "click-click-pop" with the clicks coming from the coil (I think) and the pop from from the injectors.
This is correct?
Also swapped back in the old fuel pump, just to test. In both cases fuel pressure bleeds down to zero once the pump is shut off. He old one is still a bit wobbly between 32 and 38 psi according to my gauge.


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post #202 of 302 (permalink) Old 05-07-2017, 02:00 PM
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Quote:
Two things. With the distributor out but hooked up the the green wires, turning it produces a rapid "click-click-pop" with the clicks coming from the coil (I think) and the pop from from the injectors.
This is correct?
That is correct. The injector click is a bit louder than the spark.
It is possible to frig the fuel pump so that it always runs when the ignition is on, that way you always have fuel when the engine is running or trying to run. I had mine like that for a while until I fixed an intermittent loss of power to the pump. Jumping the pink/black to the red/black wires from the AFM will do this.

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A little government and a little luck are necessary in life, but only a fool trusts either of them. - P.J. O'Rourke
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post #203 of 302 (permalink) Old 05-07-2017, 02:43 PM
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All the really bad stalling or hot start issues on L-jet are electrical.

I had a problem where the car would stall when the cooling fan would come on. Later, the car would get to the point where the engine would be off but the injectors and coil would be firing with key in. I thought it was the ignition amp. or hall sensor.

I tried swapping spare afm, ecu, ignition amp., fuel pressure, combo relay, coolant temp sensor...

I found that the ground wires to the ignition amplifier seemed to be kinda strange. I moved the ground wires under the coil on the Milano from the lower nut to the upper nut and all problems disappeared. Seemed like the lower nut point had excess resistance for whatever reason.


If you ever have a flooding situation, pull the coolant temperature sensor connector off and proceed to crank the engine. Once you hear some attempt at combustion, reattach the plug. The coil will fire this way but the ECU won't. It works great for weird situations where the car won't start from flooding.

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post #204 of 302 (permalink) Old 05-07-2017, 03:42 PM
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Sorry, did you say hall sensor? If your motor is '83 vintage, I'm pretty sure there is no Hall sensor? It should be mechanical advance and vacuum retard? Could it be the wrong distributor? I feel your pain, good luck!
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Two things. With the distributor out but hooked up the the green wires, turning it produces a rapid "click-click-pop" with the clicks coming from the coil (I think) and the pop from from the injectors.
This is correct?
Also swapped back in the old fuel pump, just to test. In both cases fuel pressure bleeds down to zero once the pump is shut off. He old one is still a bit wobbly between 32 and 38 psi according to my gauge.


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post #205 of 302 (permalink) Old 05-07-2017, 04:04 PM
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I have a good working distributor from my '83 that I could send you. I have a lot of duplicate parts for that matter so if there is something else you suspect, just ask.
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post #206 of 302 (permalink) Old 05-07-2017, 04:20 PM Thread Starter
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I think the 81-82 cars were different. Vacuum retard with a 2-wire hall sensors pickup in the chassis.


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post #207 of 302 (permalink) Old 05-07-2017, 04:29 PM
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I would double check that. To be clear, the later distributors used a hall effect sensor for advance (magnet counting number of rotations). The early distributor advances with spring tension which is a completely different animal. I'm not sure when it changed but I assumed '84. You mentioned yours is an 83 and that you tested the hall effect sensor? Not sure about 81-82 but my 83's distributor looks like this (springs for advance) http://www.alfabb.com/bb/forums/alfa...stributor.html

I can send more photos if you want or, you can send a photo of your dist w/cap off? Safe to say "IF" it's the wrong distributor (and it runs) it may cause a problem that would be almost impossible to diagnose.

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post #208 of 302 (permalink) Old 05-07-2017, 04:38 PM Thread Starter
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My car is an 82.


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post #209 of 302 (permalink) Old 05-07-2017, 04:42 PM
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They all have hall sensors. The early cars are two wire and the later cars are 3 wire. I think that the early cars have a centrifugal advance and the later cars have electronic advance.

Ed Prytherch
79 Spider
76 Suzuki GT500
2011 Jaguar XKR

A little government and a little luck are necessary in life, but only a fool trusts either of them. - P.J. O'Rourke
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post #210 of 302 (permalink) Old 05-07-2017, 05:32 PM Thread Starter
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I did want to mention this -

BMW bikes, but read - Hall Effect Sensor....Again - BMWSportTouring Forums
Remember the insane tach readings I was getting off the coil wire about a million posts ago?

Also - 7 Crankshaft Position Sensor Failure Symptoms | DoItYourself.com


Finally - Fourtitude.com - what symptoms do hall sensors have when they go bad??
"My bad hall sender symptoms: car would stall, once I would try to start it after it had stalled, it would not start, and the fuelpump relay would click wildly. Had to let it sit a while before it would be ok.
No more symptoms after having replaced my distributor."

Basically "symptoms of bad/failing hall effect sensor" in Google returns a gojillion such results.

Just saying...
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