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post #17 of (permalink) Old 11-08-2018, 10:21 AM Thread Starter
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plasmid's Avatar
Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: planet b
Posts: 591
Originally Posted by spiderserie4 View Post
by the by, has your car ever idled and ran well?
Hell naw!

Bought it in summer - maybe temps matter.

Part of the deal was changing the engine mounts (ie. remove lots of things on the intake side) and clutch. The shop that did the work was sloppy, if not incompetent. They left the Oil Vapor Sep. hose disconnected, shift lever was uncentered, inner boots torn, and overall the car felt worse than when I agreed to buy it.

It was idling, although it was hunting a bit and there was some stutter when the fans came on - that was my first post regarding this. From what I understand the ICV is supposed to compensate for the load placed on the system.

I did find multiple stored 1222's so I'm guessing it happened before I bought it also.

The stalling issue started after I cleaned the Oil Sep, ICV, throttle body, VVT, changed the plugs.
It was kind of intermittent. As it got colder it went from intermittent to constant.
Would that point to a leak? Bad electronic part?

On another car I had an issue with a TPS that was acting up in colder weather.

Honestly, the car feels pretty good otherwise, much better than when I got it.
There are a couple of other issues but they're unrelated.

on mine, if you peel back the ICV rubber boot the pin with the orange wire is on the left (faces back of car)
I know it should be numbered 1 & 2, but I didn't find any numbers on mine, unless they are underneath, and I didn't want to remove the whole thing.
Alright, I'll check this.

don't forget (also) the code 1222 - "Output stage of ECU for Idle Speed actuator" - could also be a dodgy ECU.....
Yep. I'm gonna order some replacement relays for the ones behind the parcel shelf.

And I guess I'll check for leaks with the air compressor method mentioned on the BB.
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