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Thread: Engine removal
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post #17 of (permalink) Old 09-23-2017, 12:57 PM Thread Starter
eas
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Join Date: Sep 2016
Location: EU
Posts: 218
I have spent a few days working a couple of hours every time, and i can tell you that I am glad I will be removing the engine.

The engine and everything under there is filthy and it was worth removing just for the clean. For instance i though the face of the crank pulley was flat where in fact it was filled with gunk mixed with dirt, I put in screw driver and it went in about 2" in. Some of the bolts/nuts where so covered in this stuff that I didn't know they where there. Clearly the engine was never cleaned in its life. Castle nuts on the ball joints had to be cleaned with brake cleaner just to be able to see the cotter pins. No wonder I couldn't time the engine when I replaced the distributor. Link

I had to tear the intake rubber mounts, as they were frozen to the carbs. The 6 bolts between the exhaust manifold and the rest of the exhaust were the worse to reach. Upon removing the exhaust manifold from the head, i noticed that I had 7 nuts and one bolt Shouldn't all be studs fixed to head and nuts on the other side ?

The only things left should be under the car. Speedo Cable. earth strap, slave cylinder, gearbox mount, and the worse part is to separate the prop shaft from the gearbox (rubber doughnut). The bolts are seized and there is no room for a ratchet bit to get around the bolt/nut, they must be undone with a open ended spanner which can round the head. I've been socking them with WD40 and Wurth anti rust every time I visit.

One question.
I have two engine hoist brackets, one attached to the engine and a spare. Should I install these at each end of the engine and use an engine leveler, or just use one and move it on the second row towards the front of car ? I will be getting out engine with gearbox.

1971 - 2000 GT Veloce Euro
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