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May the circle remain unbroken - 10204 01488

135K views 1K replies 59 participants last post by  Jim G 
#1 · (Edited)
Hello old friends.

If the plan holds together, Bob Fernald of Austin will trailer out my latest acquisition, his long-dormant project, 10204 01488. His story of this car is like many Texan stories, which awards the telling more than the veracity. That doesn't matter. There's enough documented history here to make this a project I simply had to do.

I've known Bob since the early 70s, although I suspect I remember him better than he remembers me. I was the parts manager at the Houston Alfa dealer, and later at BAP/Geon Imported Auto Parts. Bob bought some stuff from me, but his connection was far more with Joe Locario than some hourly guy working the counter. Bob owned Zap Garage in Austin, and later was the Alfa dealer in that, then much smaller, city.

When I got offered a traveling job with BAP, I offered my 102 for sale, and Bob shot over from Austin for a look. He was really thrilled at the fresh paint, engine, and tires, but then he took the trouble to look underneath. Did I say the car and I were in Houston? I was very young, and had never experienced rust on a car, but Bob was smart enough to divert his eyes and back away. I later sold the car to a Viet Nam vet recently returned home, and wanting to replace the 102 his parents had sold out from under him while he was away killing Commies for Christ.

I got rid of my two remaining Alfas in the late 70s and early 80s, expecting never to return. Both of my regular readers on the BB will acknowledge that personal discipline and impulse control are not my strong suits.

After declining my car, Bob looked around, and found 1488. His version of the story, plus the documents in the folder, suggest an American, J. W. Persohn, bought the car in Belgium, in 1964, probably as the second owner. The seller was Firma Olieslaeger, which sounds like a used car dealership. Mr. Persohn then (according to the story) drove the car to Italy where he married his fiancee, traveled around Europe, and shipped it back to Houston in 1965, where he went to work at NASA shipping lucky stiffs up to the moon.

J. W.'s son was allowed the use of the car. I don't know what his age was, but he supposedly took it drag racing, and blew up the clutch. "Blew Up", as in knocked a chunk of the bell housing out. The father was so enraged, he took the car away from the lad and dismantled it, with the plan to restore it. It sat. And sat. And sat. I'm still boggled at the thought of drag racing an unmodified 102. Or modified, for that matter.

Bob heard of the car, took a look, and bought it. It would have been after he looked at mine, but the year of Bob's purchase is a bit uncertain. Perhaps 1980? That is the most often repeated date. 1990? It doesn't matter. Since then, it sat in Bob's garage, avoiding the worst of the rain and all of the sun. The mileage, documented by sale documents, is about 96,000km, which is around 59,000 miles.

Bob is about to turn 77 (I think), and decided to thin his future "gotta do" list. Thus, I was told of the car, hopped a flight to Austin, had an indifferent chicken fried steak but very good company at an Alfa Club meeting, and shook hands on the car. Literally shook hands. Gave him a check, and he promised to deliver the car before the end of the year. Paperwork to be sorted upon arrival. No stress.

This is the way business used to be routinely done in Texas, and it makes me doubly happy to have bought this car in this manner. I have a heart warming sense that, for the moment, the world has returned to sanity. If I leave the radio off, maybe I can hold onto that for a while.

=========

Interestingly, the car has a US hood and trim strips, but Italian instruments. OK. I can work with that.

My goal is to have it complete within a year. My first Stampe biplane took 3 years. My second required only 14 months. My last 102 took about 3 years. What is the point spread on me driving the car in the first warm weather of 2019?

I don't think it needs many parts. The driveshaft is missing something. One hood scoop chrome trim piece is missing. Mostly it is complete, and (dare I say this), there is next to no apparent rust. Well, just a bit. Yes, I understand that stripping the car will reveal the folly of that statement.

It is currently red with black interior, but a RED carpet!!! Never saw that combination before. I'm hoping a letter to the new Storico (or whatever they call themselves) reveals the original color to be anything but red. If it was originally red, I will consider repainting it the same. However, I very much like the Grigio Biacca and saddle-brown Scottish leather formula I have on my current car. A steady stream of strangers tell me it is the most beautiful car they've ever seen. An even mix of men and women, but the women sometimes seem about to hand me their phone number. But, I digress.

Bob traded the original engine for an earlier worn-out Mk 1 2000 engine (large rear main bearing). I'll keep that engine, and rebuild it, in case someone in the distant future wants to revert my existing car back to something closer to original than its current hot-rod state. Fortunately, I have two freshly rebuilt engines with serial numbers that closely straddle the 1488 of the car. I'll drop one into this car, but using the OKP manifold set-up that transforms the car from a slug to pretty darn fun. When I offer it for sale, it will include freshly-overhauled components to revert it to bone-stock over a weekend. I wouldn't recommend it, but maybe someone will place a higher value on a set of fresh PHH44s, and sluggish performance, than I do.

So - Bob will head West in a few weeks. I've ordered a couple of new CA67s to help him roll it up onto his trailer. Hopefully the weather upon his arrival will allow him to do a bit of touring in my 2000/2300. I would like that.

Watch this space for tales of pain and triumph, in whatever measure they appear.
 
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#338 ·
So many 102s have been repainted in colors that are sophisticated and balanced to modern tastes (or worse, red), I’ve felt bound to keep this one as it was born. Particularly as it was a special-order car, with those unique color choices that unsubtly say “we’re Italian, and we create style you were too timid to think of”.
Exactly, Don. Good job!
 
#339 ·
She comes home tomorrow.

Goodby world. I’ll be back in awhile.
 
#341 ·
Assembly... 18-1109

In the shop, surrounded by ready-to-go subassemblies. No drama on the way home. However, the “Whatatruck” caught on fire just after being started this morning.

I should explain.

Outside temp at 730 this morning, 28F.
Truck lives outdoors. This helps perfect it’s patina.
Immediately after starting, a loud, screeching sound erupted, different than the normal medium screeching sound.
Smoke began dribbling out of the air vents.
I jumped out, engine still running, opened the hood, and traced the sound to the heater blower motor.
Just as I arrived at the blower motor, the screeching sound stopped.
I looked up to see my grandson, barely visible through the heavy smoke in the passenger compartment, scrabbling madly to roll down the window. My first thought was how this reminded me of a scene from a Cheech and Chong movie.
I returned to the driver’s door, opened it, and began choking on the thick white smoke. Oddly, it smelled like burning wood, not electrical insulation.

After closing all of the vents, and opening the windows, it cleared enough to drop the boy off for wrestling practice, and make the 30 minute drive to pick up the car.

Once the car was loaded onto the trailer, I pulled the blower motor and found a collection of crushed leaves, and the ash from burned leaves, inside the blower plenum. Further investigation found burned leaf residue inside the commuter end of the blower motor, ducted there via the motor cooling tube.

I cleaned it all well enough to get home, but more work is required. Whatever fire happened inside the motor has resulted in it having only one speed, high, rather than the original three.

For now.... nap time.
 

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#342 ·
Whoa, an exciting day.

Car looks excellent.
 
#343 ·
I should be done by Christmas!
 
#344 ·
The color is defiantly much better outside. Beautiful color and is going to stand out among its regular colored peers.
 
#347 ·
I started threading the wire loom I got from Lionel. As expected, it’s certainly a fine piece. I’ve encountered two discrepancies, but didn’t have time to sort them out. Probably just an error on my part.

Suddenly, I am finding which vendors tend to take advantage of the words “I don’t need it for a few months”. Nothing is holding me up, but things are going to happen quickly now.
 
#348 ·
All sorted on loom. While contemplating his future retirement in Spain, Lionel taped together the two rear branches into one. Once separated, the other inconsistencies adjusted out.

Today I got about 90% of the loom in place and switches wired. Given past experiences, I’m considering inserting high-current relays into the headlight circuits. Running all that current through a Lucas slider switch has been tested, and found wanting. I think I can hide them on the front side of the electrical panel that mounts the regulator. Moral quandary.

This loom has the oil temp balancing resistor pre-wired into the cable. Nice. My first one, 10 years ago, didn’t.

Hopefully my gauges come back soon, so I can wrap up the instrument pod.
 

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#349 ·
Hello Don,

Given past experiences, I’m considering inserting high-current relays into the headlight circuits. Running all that current through a Lucas slider switch has been tested, and found wanting. I think I can hide them on the front side of the electrical panel that mounts the regulator. Moral quandary.
100% agree with you. Even with a brand new loom the headlights need a perfect current alimentation (comming dirrectly from the battery) to be efficient.
Will you install 1 relay per light ? : that means 6 relays.
I will proceed to this improvement soon : Two 5mm2 (may be more) wires coming directly from the starter and 2X3 relays that I plan to install on each inspection door behind the lighthouse in the wheel arch.
I will also install a relay for the fan electrical engine.
You solution on the electrical panel that mounts the regulator is may be better but will require more modification.

This loom has the oil temp balancing resistor pre-wired into the cable.
Do you have a picture of this detail ?
What is the value of the resistor ?

Serge
 
#350 ·
I’ll get the resistor value for you, but I recommend a somewhat different approach.

The resistor is a type I’ve not used before, but didn’t really research the subject all that diligently. It’s contained in a screw-capped tube somewhat like you would find containing a fuse, but intended for a resistor. I’ll get a pic.

As our old analog gauges are not precision devices, I suggest another approach to choosing the correct value rather than simply duplicating what Lionel provided.

Once everything is working well with your engine, buy a small handful of resistors on either side of the value I’ll provide later. Drive your car on a highway, at speed, long enough that all of your temp gauges stabilize. Pull off the road, and quickly change the oil temp resistor until one results in the oil temp reading in the middle of your gauge.

Assuming your engine is fundamentally healthy, all you really want to know is whether the oil temp is suddenly behaving oddly, not the absolute temperature.
 
#351 ·
The value of the inline resistor probably also depends on what type of sensor is being used. It may be worth revisiting the sensor research dabraham posted in this thread.
 
#354 ·
Ah, beautiful work Don! The paint and wiring looks fantastic. I wish we could fast forward to the part where you get to turn the key and drive...

Given past experiences, I’m considering inserting high-current relays into the headlight circuits. Running all that current through a Lucas slider switch has been tested, and found wanting.

Wow, I've been driving Touring Roadsters for 29 years and never knew this was an issue...probably the next time I drive the car the switch will be found wanting for some attention. I wonder if your grounds were clean and connections tight?

Mark
 
#355 · (Edited)
Mark, et al,

I'm OK with designing my own approach to the relays. When it comes to modifying a 102, I think a lonnnnnng time before cutting anything. I generally end up NOT cutting anything.

My thought on relays in the front of the regulator mounting panel was purely to hide them from sight. Under the dash makes plenty of good sense as well, if I can find room. I'm working under there now, and there's not a lot of free space.

Yes, we must assume the wiring is of appropriate diameter, but I've got this thing about actually seeing at night, so will be using Halogen rather than incandescent. Not sure of the amperage draw difference, but will check that before doing anything. Nevertheless, my past experience (on ALL of the Alfas I've had) is that it is the switch that gets tired of carrying the current, not the wires. I'll study the schematic, but suspect one relay for the high and one for the low should suffice, and having them under the dash before the fuse panel would make the use of only two easier. If I go to the front, downwind of the fuses, it'll take four relays.

I think I've got three dead headlight switches in my spares box already. That's one for each of the three I've owned since I got back into Alfas in about 2006.

Here are the pics of the oil temp resistor box and the resistor itself. Lionel chose a 20 ohm resistor, which may be fine. As I said earlier, thinking any of our temperature gauges are fine, precision instruments is folly. I'll change this resistor to get a mid-span reading, regardless of what sensor I'm using (which should be the original on this car).

Does anyone have a spare wiper motor they'd like to let go? Of everything I've touched on this car, this is the only piece so far that looks like it was left out in the sun baking, after being used to beat a dead horse. Of course, it's Lucas. Sahines is checking to see if he has one, but he thinks a Giulietta unit is the same. An actual 102 motor might spare me a false start. I had a very good looking spare, but gave it to Dogga Dave in Australia to get his RHD 2000 finished. He ended up selling that car for $300k AUD, and I ended up needing my spare. Ain't it always.....

Running up to get some powder coating tomorrow. Surprising how many things I forgot in my advance work, but are now discovering are in the way of rapid progress.
 

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#358 ·
Cool.

I have two drive tubes with wiper gear boxes, plus the guts of my motor to scavenge. Thanks!

I’ll send a PM withe details.
 
#359 ·
18-1113 ---- Christening

Got a little distracted today.

I'm tootering away on electrical stuff, but am waiting on a few things from the plater, powder coater, or rebuilder to move forward without restraint. So, the "look! A squirrel" method of planning was in use today.

The replated and powdered mirror was reassembled, awaiting the freshly resilvered mirror from Chris'.

Horns half done, but awaiting the face plates from the powder shop.

So, I decided I could have some fun. The "Alfa Pride" radio delete plate was installed, the "Made in Italy" placard (an original made-in-Italy plate was screwed in place, the "tipo 10204" placard found it's hope (a repro from Doug), and the triumphant, original data plate was snugged up onto the firewall.

This led me to put the eyebrows on, under the theory they would be cheaper to replace if dented than having to do some straightening and repainting on the nose. Since I couldn't stop the forward momentum, I went ahead and put the heart in place to just see the effect.

The yellow by itself is a bit much. With the brightwork highlighting the lines, it starts to look pretty sharp, I think.

Door cards are nearly ready for leather.

Shark "gill" trims will go on tomorrow.

Had a crappy day with the new doctor that bought out the practice of my old doctor. Total arse. Will be getting a new doctor shortly.
 

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#361 ·
Doing a pirouette

Another long, and productive day.

Ever notice how we guys estimate time to completion totally wrong? We consider a job, add up the time to pick up a part, place part into position, turn the wrenches, wipe our hands, and call it done. 15 minutes, tops. But there’s all those little steps that we don’t count that get ya’.

Added some more bling today, as a sort of reward for a lot of drudgery.

Pulled the gas tank out of 00072, due to a steady drip leak, and a failing rear support strap. Seemed like a good time to do it, as I’ll be taking 1488’s tank and radiator up to the rad-shop for testing, cleaning, and etc.

I finished duplicating the Masonite door cards, but after much study have decided the old ones weren’t originally fitted to this car, so I’ve duplicated a misfit. Oh well, 1/8” Masonite is cheap. This gives further credence to my theory that the original owner replaced the interior when he repainted his yellow car red.

Ordered my 1/0 welding cable from McMaster Carr Monday night. It arrived today, along with end fittings. Getting that in will mark a significant point, as I can start back filling with the insulation and dynomat.

Chromer said he’d be shipping by the end of this week. Third week in a row I’ve heard that.

The post pointing forward in the picture below is one of two that allow my rotisserie to rotisize. It has a secondary purpose. While carrying a perfect, freshly restored and painted door across the shop, this post will bring one’s shin to a sudden and painful stop. This results in an almost total loss of balance, barking curse words like a tourette’s sufferer, and rotating around the trapped leg while flailing with the other in search of balance. To avoid striking the equally perfect paint on the car with the unblemished door, the door has been thrust upward over my head much like attempting that most hated of weight-lifting movements, the “overhead squat”. Yes, I know that sounds like a maneuver imposed upon a new pledge at a 70’s fraternity party, and possibly perfected by Steve-O under the direction of Johnny Knoxville, but in this case it was an automatic impact-avoidance response.

In the end, the flailing leg found the earth, barely avoiding a very expensive crash.

Wanna know the irony?

The rotating peg assemblies are dismountable with four bolts each, just to ensure this type of encounter need not happen.

Just too anxious to get started on the 15 minute job of installing the wiring harness.
 

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#363 ·
I can relate to so much of what you just said. The amount of times I have smashed my shins on the stop plates at the end of the ramp, usually whilst carrying something or having a screwdriver in hand. It also amuses me that trade people all over the world give the same 8-12 week time to get a job done. My gauges 8-12 weeks = 9 months the trimmer 8-12 weeks = 7 months and worst the chrome plating 8-12 weeks = 18 months! If I could do it myself I would! Probably only take me 8-12 weeks ?
Love to close up detail pics
 
#364 ·
The McMaster-Carr cable was orange!!!@&$#*%

I took a look at their website, and yes, it stated orange. Dang it. Now I’ve got 20 feet of custom-cut, flexible welding wire, if anyone is rewiring a car, and an orange + battery wire suits your tastes. Cost me a non-refundable $77.

Drove to my closest welding shop, but all he had was pre-cut 50’ packages for $135.

Went to my favorite, but not closest, shop and bought 17’ of 2/0 for $53. We have a winner.

Too soon old, Too late schmart.
 
#365 ·
Too soon old, Too late schmart.
If I may say so, Don, it would appear that your sincerity levels have declined somewhat. This is not something to worry about, it happens to all of us over time. An expedient solution is to perform a purification ritual in close proximity to your spider. If you're not too squeamish about it, spreading a little blood in close proximity to the cylinder head during the ritual certainly couldn't hurt. Old Alfas tend to respond positively to blood sacrifices for some reason. Do this and I'm sure all will be well.
 
#368 ·
Sincerity levels declined? I’m so full of crap I’m equipped with my own dipstick.

I currently have four, fresh wounds bleeding from hands and arms, plus the concave shin bone.

Fresh engine not yet in car, but that step is oozing closer. Bob F May have told you about the engine. He sat staring at it in its display case for several hours. So, there’ll be blood dribbled around the cylinder head soon enough.
 
#366 ·
There are a lot of uses for foam tubing that Home Depot carries in the plumbing or HVAC sections of the store. It would help prevent "shin digs" like you received. I put the stuff on the 6 posts of my king size bed, with zip ties, several years ago. It has saved my toes numerous times. I also cover the hood catch on the Touring when working on the engine, lest I get another racing stripe on my balding pate.

I wonder if you can buy heat shrink tubing in 20 foot lengths...electrical tape would have covered the offensive orange as well. I'll cover the shipping to GA.

Mark
 
#367 ·
Anyone got a spare horn?

Can anyone explain how they work?

What determines whether a horn is high or low tone? The diaphragm or the electromagnet assembly?

Will the Classic Alfa horn guts fit into an original Bosch body?
 
#369 ·
Hello Don,

Anyone got a spare horn?
Can anyone explain how they work?
What determines whether a horn is high or low tone? The diaphragm or the electromagnet assembly?
The tone is determined by the reference of the horn.

Mine (I have only one) is a HO/FSA 12/9

Product Audio equipment Auto part Technology Loudspeaker


On 356 Porsche you have HO/FSA 6/4 and HA/FSA 6/3 (2 tones).

What is the ref of yours ?

As these horns where mounted on many cars on this period, you can easily find some with google (just wright "HA/FSA ...").

There is no issue regarding the assembly of the horn.
But .... you can make a mistake while assembling the fix part of the electro magnet and the moving one

fix part
Auto part Vehicle brake Automotive wheel system Wheel Brake


moving part
Auto part Finger Nut Wood Fastener


The sheets of the moving part must be oriented on the same direction than the fixed sheets. As the assembly is made blindly, you can make a mistake and your horn won't work.

(I hope I'm clear).

Take care if you test your horn alone with a flying battery : If your ears are too close form the horn you won't appreciate it. Put a ears protection first.
 
#371 ·
To clarify...

I am wanting to know what component in the Horn determines its tone. Is it the diaphragm or something else? So, if one installed a hi-tone diaphragm in a previously low tone horn, would it become a hi-tone?

One of my horns works fine. The other will click when power is applied, but not make a continuous tone. I see no moving parts in the Horn, so I have no idea what to test. What causes the diaphragm to vibrate, rather than just click once? Is there some kind of internal interrupting switch?
 
#372 ·
In essence, the horn works like a electro-mechanical relay that opens and closes very quickly. So, yes, there is an internal interrupting switch, which is closed in the resting position. When power is applied, a coil creates a magnetic field that pulls the membrane yoke towards the coil, until the yoke opens the switch. When the switch opens, the spring force of the membrane moves the yoke towards the resting position until the contact is closed again. The cycle repeats for as long as power is applied. The frequency (pitch) of the horn is a function of mass and spring tension and contact gap size. I haven't opened a horn in decades, but I recall there's usually an adjusting screw that happens to tune the frequency (typically about 325 for the lower and 400 Hertz higher pitch sounds). I would guess that failure most often is a function of contact wear and/or corrosion.

Further descriptions of how a electromagnetic horn works can be found in the original Bosch patent here.
 
#373 ·
I studied both my operating and inop horn for an hour or so last night. I can see the area that would likely be the interrupting switch and the contact points, but could not manually move anything. I did not see any adjusting screw, but today’s a new day, so maybe it will all be clear.

My sense is that the inop horn is never triggering the interruptor.
 
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