Hood scoop trim
All of the aftermarket vendors have offered new hood scoop trim pieces for over a decade. I wonder if a) they used to be good pieces and now are not, b) nobody ever sold any because there were enough original floating around, c) no one could figure out how to make them fit, and were too embarrassed to publish, or d) everyone found it easy to modify them to fit, so didn't think any comment was necessary.
I've bought two sets via CA, but I'm certain its the same fabricator for all distributors. They are woefully unusable as-received.
The trim pieces are listed as fitting all cars, both US and Euro. 102.04.59.037.00. So, we should be able to assume that repro parts sold should have a hope of being usable.
The short of it is, the repros are too tall, and have the wrong curvature at both ends. I attempted to fit the first pair I bought by carefully filing away the ends to lower the height. This eventually led to the studs falling away before the correct amount of lowering was achieved. As part of this effort, I tried to change the arc of the ends, finding that the folded down flange at the front added too much stiffness to achieve much change in the curvature.
Note the originals are chrome-plated steel, and the repros are stainless. This is actually a good thing.
The originals have a roundish profile on the top, and the repros are flat on the top.
So.... What to do?
After thinking about it, I ordered another pair. The first step was to use my Dremel to remove the 4mm studs at each end (or are they 3mm? I'll double check). This allowed me to use a hand-held belt sander without having to navigate around the studs, which were going to fall off anyway, once the right amount of metal was removed.
I used the belt sander to narrow the width of the front flange. The combination of the soft stainless, and the slightly narrowed flange will allow some degree of re-arcing of the trim piece, to better conform to the two scoops.
On my car, and all I've seen, the scoops are taller near the center than the outer, and the curve is more roundish near the center, and slightly flattened at the outer end. Plus, since the scoops are slanted from front to back, creating a sort of "arrow" look, the angle of the ends of the trim must be twisted to match.
Using flat "seam" pliars, I was able to tweak the shapes to fit. This was a very slow, iterative process, as each change would involve some sanding/metal removal, with twisting and tweaking. The biggest challenge was to get the trim to lay flat on top of the scoop. The top of each scoop has a slight arc from inside to out, whereas the new trim pieces are flat across the top. Patience, patience, patience.
Of course, all this work lead to scratching of the stainless. Here's where it is a benefit to be stainless. I used a Dremel sanding wheel to remove the scratches, then a buffing wheel with polish to bring them back to a high shine. I may take one more pass at perfecting the shine before calling it done, but stainless is pretty forgiving in this area.
However, before polishing, I had to reinstall some studs.
As the original studs didn't match the distance between the holes on my hood, I made a jig to ensure I placed them the right distance apart. The jig, in the end, was a waste of time. With some study I was able to eyeball the placement of the new studs, which were held in place by my son while I brazed them. Regular brazing works fine on stainless, and was what I found on the new trim pieces when I removed the original studs. I found it helpful to slightly bend the upper portion of each stud to get a better contact patch with the trim, while allowing the stud to protrude down at the correct angle. I also pre-tinned both the stud and trim piece, to allow less heat-on time during the actual attachment of the stud.
Like most things we do on these cars, I reckon another set would take me only about an hour. This pair took the better part of a day and a half.
Last point..... I forgot that the studs had to protrude not only through the hood thickness, but also the various doublers and material on the underside of the hood. As it turns out, I cut the studs to the EXACT length necessary for final assembly, but it was close. I'd leave the studs longer next time, doing the cut after final assembly.
First pic below shows original as-removed on the right, with un-modified new repro on the left.
Second pic shows sort of arced "airfoil" shape of original trim. Repro is flat on top.
Third pic shows repro parts after significant grinding, shaping, sanding, and buffing.
Fourth pic is a repro just after stud removal.
Last pic was immediately after installation. Might do some more polishing.
Carson City, NV
59 102 Touring (first Alfa $500 running)
65 Sprint GT (2nd Alfa, $500 daily driver)
102 Sprint (never did anything with it, but wish I had)
74 Berlina (first new car - now certainly rusted into oblivion)
61 Giulietta Spider G-Prod Race Car (where is it now?)
84 Spider Veloce (rarely drove it, so sold it)
86 Quadrifoglio (Dull car - no more 115s for me)
1971 Montreal "The Full Monty". Fair winds and following seas
59 102 Touring Roadster - restoration complete, enough Alfa for any rational man. Or irrational, for that matter
Oops. Add to the "present" list, 10204 01488, 2000 Touring Roadster project
Two 1946 Stampe SV4C (c/n 294 "Rocinante" - wife's favorite airplane. RIP), and c/n 235 "La Bon Temps Femme" (gone to a new home, but never forgotten)
Zlin 50LA (+9 -6 gees, titanium spar, 1200 lbs, 260HP rumored to now be in Brazil)
1946 Luscombe 8A
Starduster Too (recently spotted at the Nevada City, CA airport - over 20 years and an entire continent separating it from our stewardship in Binghamton, NY)
1955 Cessna 170B (wife taught me to fly tailwheel in this)
64 Mooney M20E ("Rambo". My faithful steed for over 40 years) Over 55 years old, and just returned from a trip to Argentina in him
Newest in the fleet
1967 Piper Super Cub on Wipline amphibious floats (a true "all terrain vehicle")
2010 Triumph Thunderbird
You can snap roll an Alfa only one time...
Last edited by DPeterson3; 04-15-2019 at 10:10 AM.