Re-assembling rear suspension - Page 4 - Alfa Romeo Bulletin Board & Forums
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post #46 of 54 (permalink) Old 07-30-2019, 01:14 PM Thread Starter
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You don't need to leave any bolts loose. When you have loaded the suspension accurately you can back off and retorque the bolts and the bushings will release and reset as you back off the bolts.

They will but you also don't want to load up your suspension with those bushings way off, you can damage them if they are far enough off to begin with. Its only supposed to deflect within a small range. This was the basic concern of my initial question, because clearly doing it that way would quickly damage the bushing.

Why tighten the crap out of them when you are going to need to loosen them and retorque anyway. Just leave them lightly attached so they will 0 out when the suspension loads up, and then tighten them properly.

-RL; 1991 Alfa Romeo 164S, 2014 Mercedes Benz E350 4Matic, 2010 Chevrolet Camaro SS, 2008 Chevrolet Silverado 2500HD, 1995 Volkswagen Golf (Race Car)
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post #47 of 54 (permalink) Old 07-30-2019, 01:43 PM
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They will but you also don't want to load up your suspension with those bushings way off, you can damage them if they are far enough off to begin with. Its only supposed to deflect within a small range. This was the basic concern of my initial question, because clearly doing it that way would quickly damage the bushing.

Why tighten the crap out of them when you are going to need to loosen them and retorque anyway. Just leave them lightly attached so they will 0 out when the suspension loads up, and then tighten them properly.
Exactly! All I stated was leave them loose as in not tightened to spec. Just tighten enough to hold them in place but loose enough so everything moves. Also similar to doing an alignment, bounce the car up and down a few times to settle the suspension before tightening the bolts/nuts.

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post #48 of 54 (permalink) Old 09-05-2019, 01:04 PM
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Just to say, found the rear clearance of my 164 on the ground is high enough for me to slide underneath with spanners in hand and tighten the rear suspension bolts, now in their natural position. How did I miss this before? It totally answers all previous ideas of spring compressors or jacks or wheel ramps.

By the way, also found that the lower rear strut suspension bolts, the 105mm and 200mm (205mm) M10s, are (EU/UK) grade 10 steel, not sure what the US equivalent is, with special zinc coating. Think it is thicker than even passivated yellow zinc. As temporary measure, have grade 8.8 (UK/EU) 110mm bolts in the top holes of the bottom struts. This is still really strong steel and probably strong enough to rip through the strut itself before breaking. Not managed to free up the long lower bolts yet - still spraying them with variety of rust penetrating stuff and got some emery paper strips to clean up their exposed shafts.

Hope this helps.
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post #49 of 54 (permalink) Old 09-19-2019, 05:22 PM
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Help!
Today got the car up on a friends ramps and managed to bang out the 8" long bolt on the bottom struts on one side, after about an hour of freeing the lateral arms up. On the other side - zero joy. Hammering it hard (club hammer), breaker bar adding torque on the head end - nothing. Took out the 5" bolt above it and moved the stub axle in/out a bit relative to the strut so the bae of the strut is free - just nothing else.
With a longer breaker bar had the head turning a bit, though zero visible movement in the rest of the bolt. Not even in the open middle section between the stub axle sides.
Considered using butane/propane to apply heat but the strut/shock is too close and it would burn the bush in the stub axle, possibly the ABS sensor too.
Another option am considering is just dropping the rear subframe, stub axle/trailing arm and that strut as one then trying to get the bolt out. While it is on the car the rubber bushings take the jarring out of the hammering, reducing the ability to break the corrosion on the bolt.

Any suggestions would be really very welcome.

A final though: has anyone tried snapping the bolt head off and then using the nut on the other end to pull the remains out?

Last edited by richardbradford; 09-19-2019 at 05:24 PM. Reason: extra info
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post #50 of 54 (permalink) Old 09-19-2019, 07:28 PM Thread Starter
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Help!
Today got the car up on a friends ramps and managed to bang out the 8" long bolt on the bottom struts on one side, after about an hour of freeing the lateral arms up. On the other side - zero joy. Hammering it hard (club hammer), breaker bar adding torque on the head end - nothing. Took out the 5" bolt above it and moved the stub axle in/out a bit relative to the strut so the bae of the strut is free - just nothing else.
With a longer breaker bar had the head turning a bit, though zero visible movement in the rest of the bolt. Not even in the open middle section between the stub axle sides.
Considered using butane/propane to apply heat but the strut/shock is too close and it would burn the bush in the stub axle, possibly the ABS sensor too.
Another option am considering is just dropping the rear subframe, stub axle/trailing arm and that strut as one then trying to get the bolt out. While it is on the car the rubber bushings take the jarring out of the hammering, reducing the ability to break the corrosion on the bolt.

Any suggestions would be really very welcome.

A final though: has anyone tried snapping the bolt head off and then using the nut on the other end to pull the remains out?
Wow yours are worse than mine.

I used VERY liberal amounts of pb blaster which I sprayed on multiple times over the period of days. And once I got the bolt in somewhat i used a screwdriver to drive it out through the hole.
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post #51 of 54 (permalink) Old 09-20-2019, 04:45 AM
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Originally Posted by richardbradford View Post
Help!
Today got the car up on a friends ramps and managed to bang out the 8" long bolt on the bottom struts on one side, after about an hour of freeing the lateral arms up. On the other side - zero joy. Hammering it hard (club hammer), breaker bar adding torque on the head end - nothing. Took out the 5" bolt above it and moved the stub axle in/out a bit relative to the strut so the bae of the strut is free - just nothing else.
With a longer breaker bar had the head turning a bit, though zero visible movement in the rest of the bolt. Not even in the open middle section between the stub axle sides.
Considered using butane/propane to apply heat but the strut/shock is too close and it would burn the bush in the stub axle, possibly the ABS sensor too.
Another option am considering is just dropping the rear subframe, stub axle/trailing arm and that strut as one then trying to get the bolt out. While it is on the car the rubber bushings take the jarring out of the hammering, reducing the ability to break the corrosion on the bolt.

Any suggestions would be really very welcome.

A final though: has anyone tried snapping the bolt head off and then using the nut on the other end to pull the remains out?

Here is what I did to get rear suspension apart on BB2 back in 2011:
https://www.alfabb.com/bb/forums/1015722-post36.html

https://www.alfabb.com/bb/forums/1015724-post37.html
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post #52 of 54 (permalink) Old 09-21-2019, 12:22 PM
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Thanks Guys.

Steve, am pretty much heading your route now. Bought a 6mm cobalt drill bit in case have to drill final bolt out, after angle grinding off long bits.

How did you access the 3 nuts on top of the struts? Through the boot with something like a swan neck spanner or from above via the parcel shelf?

Did you manage to leave the rear brake balancer cylinder in situ? I.e. was it possible to slide it off the subframe without having to undo the hydraulics?

Great posts/pics by the way.

Thanks again,

Richard
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post #53 of 54 (permalink) Old 09-21-2019, 01:24 PM
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Originally Posted by richardbradford View Post
Thanks Guys.

Steve, am pretty much heading your route now. Bought a 6mm cobalt drill bit in case have to drill final bolt out, after angle grinding off long bits.

How did you access the 3 nuts on top of the struts? Through the boot with something like a swan neck spanner or from above via the parcel shelf?

Did you manage to leave the rear brake balancer cylinder in situ? I.e. was it possible to slide it off the subframe without having to undo the hydraulics?

Great posts/pics by the way.

Thanks again,

Richard
I accessed three 13mm nuts on top of strut going in trunk/boot area under rear speaker area with a socket and ratchet. Pull out sound deadening material on top of strut tower first.

You maybe able to unbolt brake valve from rear cross member but long brake lines go over top of gas tank and shorter lines go out to brake calibers. So you probably will have to disconnect short lines from hoses in wheel well.

Parking brake wire cables may have to be disconnected from calipers, too.

I ended up removing and replacing everything in both front and rear suspension and brake system as well as gas tank and gas lines/brake line all the way to engine bay.
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Ciao, Alfisto Steve
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"A day without an Alfa whine is like a day without sunshine"
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post #54 of 54 (permalink) Old 09-21-2019, 01:53 PM
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Thanks Steve,

Will probably drop tank too as have replacement to go in and want to change those brake lines too. A good chance to change the fuel filter and treat the bits of corossion starting to show around it.

Cheers.

Last edited by richardbradford; 09-21-2019 at 01:54 PM. Reason: typo
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