Anyone install the adjustable thermoswitch from Centerline? - Page 2 - Alfa Romeo Bulletin Board & Forums
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post #16 of 39 (permalink) Old 04-23-2016, 01:26 PM
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Originally Posted by Del View Post
"I needed it to get a/c cooling in sweltering 4 pm heat after car even with car cover on it and windows open some sat in hot parking lot all day. "

Now it really helps to install one of those electric ball valves for the coolant line to the heater core.
Been there done that, too, but with the manual PEX valve. I only need to do the open/close trick twice a year. I may move on up to the electric heater valve heater core shutoff valve once I am caught up on my other maintenance backlog items with higher priority.

Ciao, Alfisto Steve
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Alfa Semi-Daily driver: USA model - BB2 1991 164S Black Beauty II ALFISTO [U]

[U] BB1 1991 164L w/S engine and A/T now excess to inventory [U]

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post #17 of 39 (permalink) Old 04-23-2016, 08:16 PM Thread Starter
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Yup. Never solves the problem. Best thing to do is what Del has suggested. Repair the problems in the system. I have advocated for everyone to go back to running a stock setup. It works well when working properly! I have all the parts needed to repair the cooling fan system including resistor, fan switch, fan motors etc...
Looking at parts now Jason. I need to do some more testing/checking things out before I pull the trigger, but my fan feels a little stiff when spinning it by hand and doesn't really seem to come on at all when the car heats up.

'91 164L Bianco
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post #18 of 39 (permalink) Old 04-23-2016, 08:17 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks for all of the advice again gents.

'91 164L Bianco
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post #19 of 39 (permalink) Old 04-23-2016, 08:27 PM
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If the fan isn't coming on at all, the 1st thing to check is the 40amp bar fuse on the false fire wall behind the coolant bottle. They can get a fine crack barely noticeable

Red 1991 164S, Black 1991 164S, Red 1987 Milano, 1972 Berlina, 1973 Berlina rebuilding SPICA engine
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post #20 of 39 (permalink) Old 04-23-2016, 08:59 PM Thread Starter
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I actually have already replaced that .

'91 164L Bianco
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post #21 of 39 (permalink) Old 04-23-2016, 09:01 PM
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Have you gone through Steve's trouble shooting guide?

Red 1991 164S, Black 1991 164S, Red 1987 Milano, 1972 Berlina, 1973 Berlina rebuilding SPICA engine
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post #22 of 39 (permalink) Old 04-23-2016, 09:03 PM
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My low speed isn't coming on. I've got a new switch. I just need time to put it in along with the motor operated ball valve I got.

Red 1991 164S, Black 1991 164S, Red 1987 Milano, 1972 Berlina, 1973 Berlina rebuilding SPICA engine
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post #23 of 39 (permalink) Old 04-24-2016, 05:03 AM
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Tell me anyway these low speed cooling fan stuff check results

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My low speed isn't coming on. I've got a new switch. I just need time to put it in along with the motor operated ball valve I got.
With key Tell me your low speed relay clicks if you jump black to brown wire in Low Speed wire connector at radiator thermal switch and also if you jumper same color wires at a/c receiver trinary switch.

You do have continuity between larger brown and blue wires going to low speed fan resistor in radiator shroud, too right?

Ciao, Alfisto Steve
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Alfa Semi-Daily driver: USA model - BB2 1991 164S Black Beauty II ALFISTO [U]

[U] BB1 1991 164L w/S engine and A/T now excess to inventory [U]

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post #24 of 39 (permalink) Old 04-24-2016, 08:21 AM Thread Starter
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Have you gone through Steve's trouble shooting guide?
I've gone through some of it, which is how I found that the fuse bar in the false firewall was cracked. I need to take the time to go over everything though.

'91 164L Bianco
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post #25 of 39 (permalink) Old 04-24-2016, 09:33 AM
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When I had my "fan not running" problem it turned out to be the power connector right at the fan. It had overheated and partially melted the plug. I suspect the reason was due to bad bearing, I could hear them grinding when I spun the fan by hand. Bearing is fairly easy to replace if you have that problem. I couldn't find a new connector so I just hard wired right to the fan and clamped new wires to support then used a generic male and female connector for a disconnect point at the base.

When troubleshooting you can bypass all of the switches and verify that fan does run when given power.

Paul - 1972 Spider - (2)1991 164S's - 1983 308 - 2001 Discovery - 1997 F350
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post #26 of 39 (permalink) Old 04-24-2016, 04:28 PM Thread Starter
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Have you gone through Steve's trouble shooting guide?
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Originally Posted by kcabpilot View Post
When I had my "fan not running" problem it turned out to be the power connector right at the fan. It had overheated and partially melted the plug. I suspect the reason was due to bad bearing, I could hear them grinding when I spun the fan by hand. Bearing is fairly easy to replace if you have that problem. I couldn't find a new connector so I just hard wired right to the fan and clamped new wires to support then used a generic male and female connector for a disconnect point at the base.

When troubleshooting you can bypass all of the switches and verify that fan does run when given power.

Thank you for this. The fan does have some resistance when spinning so the bearing could be suspect. I'll take a look at that power connector too.

'91 164L Bianco
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post #27 of 39 (permalink) Old 04-25-2016, 07:02 AM
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Hi Andy. I live in Dallas and had one installed on my LS about 3 or 4 years ago. This was after going through the checklist to make sure all of the fuses and electrical connections were working on the cooling system. I would be in a constant state of anxiety when driving in the Dallas summer as the temp gauge would get close to 200 degrees.

With the new system, I have it set so that the car rarely gets above 185 degrees. I can now drive it in stop and go traffic in Dallas when it is 100+ degrees outside without worrying. The adjustable mechanism seems to last about 2+ years and then it needs to be replaced.

My mechanic installed it and says that he uses them on the race cars he works on and is familiar with them. Now the downside is that my radiator fan is working about 25% more of the time. Thus, I always listen for any bearing sounds coming from the radiator fan as it is getting more use than under the stock setup. However, for Dallas traffic, it has been a success.

Good luck with your decision.

Cheers.

Jeff B.
Dallas, TX
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post #28 of 39 (permalink) Old 04-25-2016, 02:30 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks for sharing Jeff, do you know how hard it was for your mechanic to install?

'91 164L Bianco
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post #29 of 39 (permalink) Old 04-25-2016, 05:23 PM
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"constant state of anxiety when driving in the Dallas summer as the temp gauge would get close to 200 degrees"

Actually, it is pretty normal for the gauge to hover around 185-210F in the 164. My DD 91S has done that since I bought it in 94, and the 94LS is pretty much the same, even in the summertime Southwest. Max limit for the pressurized coolant in these systems is ~260F.

However, I understand your squeamish feeling, we being more used to colder engines from the old days. My experience with the 164 is that if all is working correctly and in good condition, all will be well, as compared to say the Milano which, except for the Verde, had an undersized radiator. That standard radiator is NOA, replaced by the Verde unit. Our Milano ran very hot (red light and all) in Arizona on our way to Texas, having to pull the front license plate to get a little more cooling, besides running the heater, lol. It was awful!!
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1989 Milano, Shankle Sport
1991 164S, stock
1994 164LS (~Q)
1972 Morgan 27

previously owned since 1964:

62 Morris MiniMinor 850, 67 Austin 1275 Cooper S (Downton 3/4 race), 64 Giulia Sprint GT (1st red one made), 72 Fiat 128 Sedan, 75 Alfetta Sedan, 78 Alfetta Sedan, 78 GTV, 81 GTV6, 86 GTV6

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post #30 of 39 (permalink) Old 04-26-2016, 06:21 AM
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It was not hard at all. I believe the kit comes with instructions for the wiring. There is a flexible wire with a temperature probe at the end and he strung it near the top of the radiator and inserted the probe into the radiator fins near the top row and on the driver's side, away from the water input. He had to drill two small holes on the brace that is above the radiator, on the passenger side, to mount the small 2" by 3" adjustable mechanism.

That was about it. You can still set it to replicate the factory temperature settings if that is what you desire.

When my car would get close to 200 degrees, I was always worrying if the fan was going to come on and cool it down. Anything over 200 degrees and my car started to jettison radiator fluid through the overflow pipe. I was constantly positioning myself for a place to pull over in case something happened. It got to where I dreaded driving the car because of the fear of overheating. And where is the fun of owning an Alfa Romeo if you are afraid of driving it?

Thus, this modification took care of all of that anxiety. Now, maybe if Alfa had designed the temperature gauge with 200 degrees in the middle and the red line at 240 degrees, well off to the side, maybe my stress level would not have been as high.

This is probably more explanation that what you needed. And sometimes I think about that old expression: does the man fix the car or the car fix the man? Let's meet up in Nashville to discuss this further.

Cheers everyone. Jeff

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Thanks for sharing Jeff, do you know how hard it was for your mechanic to install?

Jeff B.
Dallas, TX
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