Well, again it is hottest day of year but I got started changing my 1991 164 12v V6 brake master cylinder 60760126.
My car is a non-ABS so there are four brake lines going to master cylinder instead of two on ABS models. Same master cylinder used on all 12v V6 164B/L/S models but L and S models have ABS so bottom two master cylinder ports are plugged on those models and two top port lines go to ABS pump and then the four brake lines go from ABS pump to brakes.
Shop manual makes it sound simple HOWEVER COMMA they fail to mention some dissassembly of engine compartment is required to even see master cylinder.
To make it easy on myself I removed the following first:
1. Air cleaner top with air flow meter and bottom including mounting support after I unbolted cruise control actuator from support.
Note models with ABS will have more brake lines running forward to pump as shown in last pictures
2. Drained engine coolant and removed coolant tank.
3. Removed AFM inlet corragated tube from throttle body.
4. Disconnected heater hoses from engine and coolant tank tee fitting.
5. Sucked fluid out of brake reservoir with vac pump brake bleeder kit.
6. Disconnected brake reservoir from body mount and disconnected hydraulic clutch master cylinder fuild supply hose from reservoir (port blocked off on A/T models). I left supply hoses from reservoir to brake master hooked up.
7. Loosened/disconnected steel brake lines from master cylinder with 11mm brake line flare nut wrench.
8. Removed two 13mm nuts and star washers holding master to brake booster and broke vacuum by pulling on master cyllinder.
9. Removed master with reservoir and lines as one unit and retrieved vacuum booster o-ring for face of master cylinder from front of booster (Major item to account for).
10. Removed hose and elbows from old master with reservoir attached.
11. Cleaned out reservoir and hoses with brake clean spray solvent and blow dryed with compressed air hose nozzle.
12. Installed elbows, hoses and reservoir to new master cylinder and installed new brake booster sealing o-ring on face of master cylinder in machined groove. Note on ABS models install two steel plugs from old master to new master bottom two ports.
13.Reinstall master, washers and attaching nuts loosely.
14. Hooked up and clamped clutch master supply line to brake master (NA A/T models) and reclamped reservoir to body.
15. Carefully started all two or four steel brake lines (depending on non-ABS or ABS set up). Once all line flare nuts started in master cylinder ports and turn easily tighten two 13mm mounting nuts to booster and then tighten brake line nuts with 11mm wrench and finish final tightening with flare nut wrench.
16. Filled reservoir with good grade fresh brake fluid DOT 3/4 such as Castrol LMA or Pennzoil super heavy duty which has a minimum 448F boiling point and a wet boiling point of over 311F.
17. I used a Actron Europe automatic brake and clutch bleeder kit CP4062 from UK I bought from www.ipdusa.com
IPD Volvo # 4062. It uses air pressure from front tire to pressurize system.
18. I bled clutch slave first since feed port of clutch is higher in reservoir than brake ports.
19. Next I bleed two front brakes and then jacked up rear body under trunk and then jacked up both rear suspesnions under trailing arm pivot points under rear struts to keep rear brake proportioning valve in weight on wheels configuration and then bleed rear brakes.
20. Reinstalled wheels and torqued lug bolts to 75 ft lbs.
21. To be continued as temp is 97 and heat index is now 105 and tomorrow is another day.