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Old 07-21-2008, 12:29 PM
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Gary73Super Gary73Super is offline
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Thanks Andrew. That makes sense to speed things up for those "in the know"--that the groove is deeper in some spots to allow you to align it right and get it out. That would have halved my dismount/mount time or probably better. I'll file it away mentally for next time, since it does seem like a more reliable method to do the bleeding as well as more comfortable than being on my back shouting to the person operating the pedal.

Do you think the clunk I get sometimes now could be the throwout bearing going out, or is it pretty typical because 1st and reverse aren't synchronized like you mentioned?

Gary
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Old 07-21-2008, 03:46 PM
Andrew Andrew is offline
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It's not that the groove is deeper, it's that circlip is higher and lower in different parts, and so projects up more. One part of it will just clear the flange.

I don't know what to say about the clunk. Normally TO bearings screech and whir when going bad. This is a hydraulic clutch car, right? If so, is the TO bearing arm perpendicular to the slave cylinder pushrod? The arm itself, the TO bearing tangs the arm fits in, and the sleeve/tube that the TO bearing slides fore and aft on all can get cocked and funny, making the TO bearing work in a rough jerky way, though sometimes fine. It can be quite inconsistent. You might look at all that closely.

If the TO bearing arm forward face is not 90 degrees to the input shaft of the trans, when viewed from the side, it may be screwy. Obviously the TO bearing arm pivots, so I don't mean than angle, but when looking at it directly down its length. Another hard thing to explain by email.

Andrew
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Old 07-31-2008, 02:34 AM
Andy_junior Andy_junior is offline
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G'day Gary

I've just picked up this thread as i have the same problem in my 105 Gt1300.

I've completed a full engine Gbox rebuild. After a short drive with the gearbox behaving itself it slowly deteriorated until it wouldn't go into 1st or reverse.

I was wondering if you measured the travel of the slave cylinder push rod (should be 10 -11mm) and the MC push rod (should be 27mm +/- 1mm). I have got these travel distances right and I'm still having problems.

I can also hear a slight bearing noise when in neutral and my foot off the clutch. If I depress the clutch pedal the noise stops.

If you've had any developments i would love to hear it.

cheers

Andy
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Old 07-31-2008, 11:30 AM
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Gary73Super Gary73Super is offline
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Hi Andy,

No, I didn't measure slave/master travel distances, but that would be a good idea should the problem reappear on mine. I've put maybe 100 miles on it since the last fluid bleed with the cylinder out and haven't gotten a single time where the old "grind" came back where I didn't dare force it into first or reverse. I still do have the little "clunk" on occasion--kind of a "hitch in the giddy-up" when engaging first gear that seems benign enough now that I'm not going to worry about it.

As an aside, I figure there's a pretty high percentage of owners who don't even consider things like that as a problem. My whole experience with trying to get a pair of Dellortos in good tune and then switching to Solexes gave me that impression. Seems like lots of people just live with little flat spots during acceleration as an "they all do that" problem.

At this point, I'm not sure if the clunk is just because first gear is not synchronized as Andrew mentioned, or is something that is going south or misadjusted. Wild guess is that it is related to my problem before and then in conjunction with a bit of air in the lines, it was enough to cause the grinding. Now with all the air purged, it's just enough clutch disengagement to keep it from grinding at least until the clunk gets worse and gears don't fully disengage.

I also have the clutch out bit of bearing noise. But, from owning 5 BMWs between '71 and '89 models, most have done that as well (even louder) and in my time as owner I've never actually had the throwout bearing go out or had other clutch problems--including owning an E30 M3 that did that for at least a half dozen years. So, I know it's a long road downhill with the BMWs at least and I'm thinking the same on Alfas.

My clutch issue does have more of an "air in the lines" sense based on how it happened and I'm not sure that's the case with yours. Mine was going fine for weeks of near daily driving when I first got the car last October. Then while out running a quick errand and getting back in the car after a 5-minute stop, all the sudden it started to grind into first and reverse. It did this for a few days in a row, although all I was doing at that point was starting it and checking it rather than driving it anywhere since grinding gears obviously is not a good thing. Then I got underneath the car and was just fiddling with the slave cylinder while checking a suggestion that perhaps the snap rings became dislodged because the slave cylinder on mine had been recently replaced. Those were fine, but I was just "exercising" the piston rod a bit for the heck of it. I drive it again and the grinding was gone! Assumption is that I moved around some air bubbles enough to make a difference. But, I did find that it came back in the situation where I'd just let the car idle out of gear for a couple minutes, just never as bad as the original time last fall when it first happened. Car was stored over winter and then in Spring it was the occasional grinding after extended idling again--just enough not to trust the car especially turning it over for someone else to drive. My first attempt at bleeding the fluid maybe made a bit of a difference (with the slave cylinder mounted) as far as the amount of grinding. But, it was the second slave cylinder out bleed that made much more of a difference--grinding hasn't come back to date. Sorry for all the detail, just thought it would help you in determining whether it might be the same problem or not.

Good luck and I'll certainly update this post if anything changes on mine.

Gary
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  #20 (permalink)  
Old 07-31-2008, 11:39 AM
Andrew Andrew is offline
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Just to be clear, 1st is synchroed. I think it doesn't work from the neutral direction though. But it works from 2nd, if it's still functional.

I just read about a new cars (BMW I think) that has synchros on reverse.

Andrew
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