torque specs for dounghnut? tips on removal?

[burne doctor]

Hello to all, and thank you in advance for your time/expertise. I am doing a r+r of my driveline (the doughnut looked more like doughnut holes) of my new to me 73 gtv. I just did the center support and bearing as well as new u-joints, made marks for it to be aligned properly. I have a new doughnut to replace the old one that is in pieces, 6 to be exact, 3 on my trans, 3 on my shaft.
Not really enough room to get an impact gun in there, any advice on removal of the old doughnut pieces near the trans?
Also I would love the torque specs on the doughnut bolts.

thanx to all, hope everyone gets to spend time with their Italian "girlfriends" this weekend

[Gordon Raymond]

Don't know why no one has answered you. My area of experience is with earlier Giulia's and race applications, so this is just my opinion. For removal, these bolts may be hardened, not just 8.8's.I've never paid much attention to the nuts. I remove them with the proper 6 sided socket an long box end, or two box end wrenches. If a lot of zip is required, I soak them overnight in PB Blaster. IF you have had a doughnut explosion at any speed, it IS possible the bolts, or forged forks can be bent, allowing the bolts to splay outward. If this is the case, it is wise to replace the bolts and forks with undamaged used parts. If the failure was at low speed and nothing is bent, the new doughnut, with band in place, should slip on easily. As for torque on tightening, I have none listed, as I have always drawn them up tight end evenly, (then removed the band!). While you are pondering things under there, check to be sure the rear transmission mount has not sagged or broken, and that the engine mounts are also reasonably fresh. Sagging mounts do not help doughnut life. Hope this helps.

[burne doctor]

thanks gordon,
I do have new motor and trans mounts, that are goin in, I just need to get my driveline in and I can bring it to a friend's shop, I have a broken stud/bolt in my engine block from the old motor mount to get out. I understand how everything goes together, just curious on a torque setting but I guess i will get it three teeth tight with some loctite, should do it. Hope your weekend went well, I will post pics of my newer babe soon.

burn-e

[Andrew]

I have always honked down on them pretty much as hard as I reasonably can with one normal-length 19mm combo wrench on each end), and have never found one loose on later disassembly.

2000-era ones should be nylock nuts, and if the "ny" still has any lock left in it, they will not tend to back off. You could always look up what standard torque for a 12mm bolt is and use that.

Andrew

[burne doctor]

thanx Andrew. I will just give it a good wrench and call it good. Maybe re-check in a few drives. Driveline goin back in tomight, and motor mounts on saturday.

cheers

[Gordon Raymond]

Andrew,
Thats about the way I do it. Tight, but not enough to hurt yourself. Never had one come loose using normal wrenches and normal tightening strength. No need to go crazy with them. After all, one does check them occasionally, or use a paint telltale, right?

[60sRacer]

Sounds like you all are over-tightening the nuts. Yes, the bolts are specially hardened, but you can still deform the threads with too much wrench. Use locktite, and tighten them well, but not teeth clenching. That's always too much. The bolts are not carrying an axial load - like the head nuts do - so the tightening is just to keep them in place. And that's what the thin metal lock nuts are for (anybody still have these?). So just use good wrenching and some locktite.

Robert

[Alex]

These thin metal lock nuts are known over here as "PAL nuts", and are still available, mostly only to order though. I used nylocs on my doughnut bolts. I wasn't aware that these bolts are specially hardened though .. thanks for the heads up.

[Gordon Raymond]

Guess NO ONE read the second post on this thread! Soooo much for my 40+ years experience with these things!

Sooooo long!

[Joe Papa Sr]

Quote:

Originally Posted by burne doctor Hello to all, and thank you in advance for your time/expertise. I am doing a r+r of my driveline (the doughnut looked more like doughnut holes) of my new to me 73 gtv. I just did the center support and bearing as well as new u-joints, made marks for it to be aligned properly. I have a new doughnut to replace the old one that is in pieces, 6 to be exact, 3 on my trans, 3 on my shaft. Not really enough room to get an impact gun in there, any advice on removal of the old doughnut pieces near the trans? Also I would love the torque specs on the doughnut bolts. thanx to all, hope everyone gets to spend time with their Italian "girlfriends" this weekend

[burne doctor]

Doughnut's in. I was hoping to be able to do it without taking the exhaust/trans crossmember out but no such luck. Now the big deal is to get the broken stud out of my block.....