#76 (permalink)  
Old 05-23-2008, 12:24 PM
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eburrows eburrows is offline
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Well, I did get it all back together. It starts, runs, switches gears, and drives nicely....but:

The exact same worrying noise is there as when I started. I was sure it was the throwout bearing, especially after seeing it, and it's damage, but the sound is exactly the same. A metal-on-metal grinding kind of noise that goes away when the clutch is depressed, and a clunky vibration when moving. I'm very depressed, I'd hate to have to go through that all again!

Any ideas would be greatly appreciated, and I'm going to cross-post to the Spider forum to get a wider audience.
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Old 05-24-2008, 11:44 AM
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Cool idea

eburrows
Check for rubbing heatshield or exhaust. The only simple thing I can think of.
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Old 05-24-2008, 05:23 PM
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Flywheel deglaze

Ok got the flywheel prepped and installed the clutch and pressure plate. I had already done the pilot bushing.

Used a 50 grit 2 inch sanding disk and went around it at high speed lightly, after cleaning everything. Cleaned it up and here it is.
Name:  Flywheel prep.jpg
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Torqued the 13mm bolts to 16.5 lbs

Name:  New Clutch and pressure plate.jpg
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Last edited by gadwhite; 05-24-2008 at 05:24 PM. Reason: sp
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Old 05-24-2008, 05:44 PM
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Excellent work!

It looks like a CNC machine did it. Good job.

Go Gadwhite, Go!
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Old 05-24-2008, 05:45 PM
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Old Transmission bushing Removed, Poly Bushing installed

Got the old Transmission bushing out, by hacksawing through the bushing from the inside, Then used the old bushing to hammer in the new one, ( which I had frozen in the freezer. IT WORKS!)
Name:  old trans bushing.jpg
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Name:  Trans bushing.jpg
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Here is the Poly Bushing added to the new stock. I'm going to give this a try, but if it transmits too much vibration to the car then I'll pull it out.
Name:  Poly Trans bushing.jpg
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Last edited by gadwhite; 05-24-2008 at 09:27 PM.
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Old 05-24-2008, 10:58 PM
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Before you go stuffing that trans back up in, the flywheel has been double, treble, and quadruple checked to ensure it's orientated correctly, right?

When/if you do a bushing again, after freezing the thing, heat the trans where the bushing goes with a propane torch 'til spit sizzles off it.

Then you can slip the bushing in with your finners and even adjust it a little bit side to side and rotationally before the hot cools and the cool warms up locking it all together.

Still, looks like you got a darn good line-up on it the first time. Goodonya
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Old 05-25-2008, 01:22 PM
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alignment

Quote:
Originally Posted by Tifosi View Post
Before you go stuffing that trans back up in, the flywheel has been double, treble, and quadruple checked to ensure it's orientated correctly, right?

By alignment, do you mean with the alignment tool? I have also marked the drive shaft, propeller shaft etc for balance.
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Old 05-25-2008, 11:15 PM
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Nope, I meant the little tick mark on the edge of the flywheel lined up with the TDC mark at the top back of the block while the crank was at TDC which indexes the magnet thingy on the edge of the flywheel so the sensors can let the engine run.

If it's off by even one bolt hole, (there's 5 ways to put it in wrong, but only one right), you're gonna be taking the trans out again to correct it.
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Old 05-25-2008, 11:37 PM
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Thanks

Quote:
Originally Posted by Tifosi View Post
Nope, I meant the little tick mark on the edge of the flywheel lined up with the TDC mark at the top back of the block while the crank was at TDC which indexes the magnet thingy on the edge of the flywheel so the sensors can let the engine run.

If it's off by even one bolt hole, (there's 5 ways to put it in wrong, but only one right), you're gonna be taking the trans out again to correct it.
I'll take a look. Funny how the shop manual ommits this little tidbit. Does this mean I have to hand turn over the motor to line this up?
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Old 05-25-2008, 11:41 PM
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Wait Wait Wait

Tifosi
I think I know whats going on. You think I removed the flywheel right? I never removed the flywheel.
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Old 05-25-2008, 11:49 PM
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If it's not lined up, yes, but you can pull it over with the fan if you're careful to not rank on it too sharply.

Even more easy if the plugs are loose so you don't fight compression.

If you jump through the link in my sig, there's some infobits regarding that including some diagrams and pix to show what we're on about.


The basic premise is #1 cylinder at TDC (the timing pointer set to 'P' is usually close enough for that) then orientate the little tick mark on the edge of the flywheel (it's between the ring gear and where the pressure plate bolts on) so it's at 12 o'clock and lined up with the little notch you'll find in the back of the block (it'll be obvious as it's the only mark or out of place looking bit of machine work there).

When done, the flywheel will be 'timed' to the sensors and distributor so that the ICU can fire the ignition at the proper moments. Otherwise, it may throw spark, but it sure won't run.
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Old 05-25-2008, 11:50 PM
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There I go typing really slow again. (I must get new fingers and/or a quicker mind one of these days.....)

Quote:
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Tifosi
I think I know whats going on. You think I removed the flywheel right? I never removed the flywheel.

Ya, I thought you had pulled the flywheel.

Nevermind, you've got it under control LOL
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Old 05-25-2008, 11:56 PM
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Thanks

Phew
You had me worried for a bit there, but I appreciate someone keeping me on track.
I keep making little notes like remember to:

put the new throwout bearing in before installing trans,
re-attach the fan shroud before starting engine.
put oil in transmission.

Thanks Gabriel
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Old 05-26-2008, 12:02 AM
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Quote:
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put the new throwout bearing in before installing trans
And clutch fork (it looks like you could slip it in through the bell housing hole as an afterthought, but I promise you it can't)
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Old 05-31-2008, 06:18 PM
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