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Old 03-22-2007, 09:07 AM
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MarcoGtv6 MarcoGtv6 is offline
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Positioning the Shifter Fork on it's Rod.

I am almost done with my rebuild of a GTV6 transmission!

One last question: When positioning the shifter forks (1-2gear and 3-4gear) on their control shaft these have about 2mm of total adjustment for their final position. For example the fork for 1/2 gear can be moved closer to first gear than second....

The manual is somewhat obscure on this matter. It pretty much says to "center" the fork, tighten the bolts, check that when the gear is engaged the syncro ring has about .7mm to .9mm of play and to "register" it if it does not

Now the position of this fork determines how much a syncro band and the dog teeth are engaged and should not be taken to lightly.....Too much in one direction and 1st enganges "deeply" and second engages "lightly"...and we all know that we need all the use of 2nd gear syncro we can get!

My current position would be to measure that, once tight, the fork and syncro ring engage the dog teeth of both gears with the same depth. This could be done by measuring the distance (once the gear is engaged) from the syncro ring to the start of the actual gear.

Am I missing something here? Is this the way to proceed?
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[COLOR="Silver"][B]1983 GTV6[/B][/COLOR]
[COLOR="Red"]1983 Moto Guzzi LeMans III[/COLOR]
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Old 03-22-2007, 02:12 PM
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Craig Craig is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MarcoGtv6 View Post
The manual is somewhat obscure on this matter. It pretty much says to "center" the fork, tighten the bolts,
My manual actually says to mark before removal but 'pretty much' centered should be ok.

Quote:
Originally Posted by MarcoGtv6 View Post
check that when the gear is engaged the syncro ring has about .7mm to .9mm of play and to "register" it if it does not
This is only a check of how much play there is between the shifter fork and the syncro ring groove. ie. how much wear there is on the shifter fork


Quote:
Originally Posted by MarcoGtv6 View Post
My current position would be to measure that, once tight, the fork and syncro ring engage the dog teeth of both gears with the same depth. This could be done by measuring the distance (once the gear is engaged) from the syncro ring to the start of the actual gear.
Sounds fine.
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Last edited by Craig; 03-22-2007 at 02:41 PM. Reason: Brain fade.
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Old 03-22-2007, 02:44 PM
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Geezer Geezer is offline
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I was wondering the same thing. My main shaft wouldn't come out of the case until I moved the 3-4 shift rod out of the 1-2 shift fork. The manual is sufficiently vague on the adjustment. It looks like the adjustment should be centered when in neutral and engaged equally when shifted into gear. Shouldn't be too hard to accomplish.
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Old 03-23-2007, 07:38 AM
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MarcoGtv6 MarcoGtv6 is offline
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well...I have these forks adjusted so that they equally engage both dog rings. But this doesn't necessarily coincide with the center of their allowed play. In my case the 1/2 gear fork is moved as close to second as possible, to get good engagement of second gear. Tomorrow will be the trial by fire: It does back in!

I believe that this adjustment might not be all that critical, as some people I have talked to didn't even realize this play existed. And I believe other factor probably have some influence here in...wear on the forks, syncro rings, play of the selector rods, etc...I am sure that if this was a more critical issue we would have seen quite a few more posts on the subject. Or maybe some "premature syncro wear" and "jumping out of gear" is due to this?
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[COLOR="Silver"][B]1983 GTV6[/B][/COLOR]
[COLOR="Red"]1983 Moto Guzzi LeMans III[/COLOR]
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