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  #16 (permalink)  
Old 01-20-2007, 11:13 AM
GTV6PASSION GTV6PASSION is offline
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Speedometer To Work

Now i do not know if this would work but i found this website on another thread www.dakotadigital.com here is what they offer:

Universal Speedometer Signal Interface
From Dakota Digital





The SGI-5 Universal Signal Interface Unit can handle all of your electric speedometer signal conversion and calibration problems. The SGI-5 can recalibrate 8K pulse per mile (ppm) through 250K ppm electronic speedometer pulse rates. The SGI-5 is great for readjusting aftermarket and OEM electric speedometers on vehicles after changing rear end gears.

The SGI-5 can also handle all of your speedometer pulse rate incompatibility problems. Does your VDO Hall Effect Speedometer generator produces a 16K ppm and your cruise control requires a 2K, 4K or 8K ppm? No Problem!
Does your older GM 700R4 transmission produce 4K ppm and your new cruise control require a 8K ppm? No Problem!

The SGI-5 can also assist in creating tach signals for diesel engines when combined with a flywheel gear-tooth sensor or purchased as a kit the DSL-2 Universal Diesel Flywheel Tachometer Interface.

Would this make the GTV6 speedometer work using the Milano transmission.
Any help thanks Sebastian
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  #17 (permalink)  
Old 01-20-2007, 11:28 AM
GTV6PASSION GTV6PASSION is offline
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More info

I just found out the I have an earlier 1985 GTV6 without the isostatic shifter.
What is an isostatic shifter first of all and how not having this isostatic shifter affect me? Can it be added?
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  #18 (permalink)  
Old 01-20-2007, 11:45 AM
Greg Gordon Greg Gordon is offline
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With a little sledgehammer work it can be added.
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Old 01-20-2007, 12:01 PM
GTV6PASSION GTV6PASSION is offline
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Clarify

Greg can you clarify what gets hammered?
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Old 01-20-2007, 12:14 PM
Greg Gordon Greg Gordon is offline
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Not exactly as I have not done it. The body of the car needs to be reshaped near the linkage at the transaxle. I think there is an article on alfagtv6.com about it. I know Michael Harris has done it. He also solved the speedometer issue by using a Milano speedometer inside the gtv6 housing.

Personally, I prefer the gtv6 transaxle. It has tougher gears and better bearings. With an improved bushing at the front of the linkage it will be nearly as good as the later linkage in terms of precision. It's also A LOT easier to change a clutch or perform transmission work on the car with the early linkage.

Greg Gordon,
www.hiperformancestore.com
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Old 01-20-2007, 08:21 PM
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AR4me AR4me is offline
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If you have a non-isostatic GTV6 and want a Milano transaxle, I would simply replace the shifter input shaft on the Milano transaxle with the one from the GTV6. That is the simplest and what we (with the help of Andrew G) did on Colin's GTV6 race car. This retains the GTV6 shift linkage.
Jes
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(Repeating what I suggest or do is at your own risk - be critical)
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Old 01-27-2007, 10:26 PM
GTV6PASSION GTV6PASSION is offline
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Decision

After much thought and reading and listening to this BB and "experts" My last conversation was with Andy Garcia at AlfaGarciaRacing in Houston.
I will get a Transmission from a 1982-1983 GTV6 and add LSD and increase the LSD to 50% vs the stock 25%. The best transmission with the best ratios for my use would have been a Verde transmission which has
a 3:53 vs the Platinum or my existing which has a 4:10. To buya Verde transmission is much more expensive than GTV6 transmission. I could get a GTV6 transmission get it with new synchros, some gears lightened and a 50% LSD for about the same as a Verde transmission done the same way. The biggest difference the GTV6 transmission is a drop in. No problem mounting, speedometer, and all the regular problems associated the a Milano trans retrofit into a GTV6. I think it makes sense. Thanks to Andy. I can not wait to receive my new transmission from you guys.
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Old 01-28-2007, 12:40 AM
Greg Gordon Greg Gordon is offline
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Wow, you don't hear about too many people wanting a 82'-83' 3.42 box. I thought I was about the only one who liked those. The tall gears are not a big drawback for a powerful motor, with enough power it's really a good gear box. Watch my drag race video and you will see it's easy to spin the tires all the way through first anyway.
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Old 01-28-2007, 07:16 AM
GTV6PASSION GTV6PASSION is offline
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The right box

Greg you are right. Thats exactly what Andy said. The 82-83 box on a car with no power probably sucks. But when you got over 220 hp the shere power increase makes that box just right. Think about this you go to mothers house 45 minutes no no the track 1 hour away with the 4:0 at 65 mph you will be revving about 700 hp more than a 82-83 box or even a Verde box. The RPM at those revs will be great at first but after awhile welllll...And think about the cost factor. Nobody wants those GTV6 boxes you can pick them up cheap maybe $100-$200 but a Platinum well well over $500 if you find one and a Verde box the same. So the savings in the purchase of the transmissions pays for the LSD addition onto the GTV6 box and no headaches for the Milano retrofit. So Greg chears to you realizing thay the GTV6 box is better You are the pioneer and now all will follow.
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Old 01-28-2007, 09:20 AM
Greg Gordon Greg Gordon is offline
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Thanks! Andrew knows those transaxles as well as anyone. He will do a great job setting it up.

Another thing: If you do the math the overall drive ratio in first gear is about the same between a 3.42 GTV6 box vs a 4.10 Milano box (both are quite a bit taller than a 4.10 GTV6 box). So the drawback to the GTV6 boxes ratios becomes more of a spacing issue. With enough power, it's really not a big problem.
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  #26 (permalink)  
Old 01-28-2007, 12:25 PM
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Alfar7 Alfar7 is offline
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Cool Transaxle Quandry

I can assure you that your GTV6/Milano transaxle is as capable of handling every bit of power as the Verde/Plat unit. I have built as many close ratio racing transaxles (RJR) in these cases as the V/P units. Your simple solution is to replace the ring gear carrier wth a LSD unit & insure the backlash & preload is OK. Pinion depth will not change. It`s simple.
Unless you are wanting to tear down your transaxle I would not get involved with gear lightening. The greatest burden on the syncros is the clutch driven disk. Get one that has an aluminum center & bonded friction material. In the pic above the one on the right is one with a rivited lining I built for a 2 liter. The bonded lining very light, releases smoothly & completely, & the BEST thing you can do for the syncros & shifting. You don`t need springs. You have plenty of rubber in the driveline! Contact me off line if you want more info.
The best internals would be 1st & 2nd from the Verde or plat on your Pinion shaft with 3rd/4th from a Alfetta. Takes a bit of machining but a wonderful close set of gears & speedometer unchanged.
Richard
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