
01-10-2007, 11:28 PM
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Christopher Boles
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Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: At the other end of the state
Posts: 2,185
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Input Shaft Bearing Removal
I am replacing the input shaft bearing (an expensive bearing!) on a transmission I am prepping. I have removed the bearing, but still remaining on the shaft is the lower bearing race. There isn't hardly any room to get a chisel in there to work it up off the face of the gear. Just how does one get that race off? Does one strike the race with a chisel to split it in half like you do on some axle races when you want to remove them?
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04-24-2007, 02:06 AM
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Join Date: Mar 2006
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I've used a belt file in these situations before (tends to be gentler than a grinder). Remove most of the thickness of the inner collar at one point (just grind down a tangent across the width of the collar) - as soon as the area you are ginding starts to blue you know you are almost there. Typically, it'll just crack as it cools and practically fall off the shaft. Takes a bit of care of course, but works well.
HTH
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04-24-2007, 03:05 PM
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Senior Member
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Join Date: Aug 2003
Location: Acworth, GA near Atlanta
Posts: 171
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Velocedoc,
Is the replacement bearing all in one piece or are the races and the ball cages separate? I took the front bearing off the mainshaft (which is the same bearing that is on the input shaft) and the forward most race stayed on the shaft and the darn BBs fell to the ground..(still missing one). I was able to press it off with the next gear in the chain (can't remember which one and I don't have a picture with me). Also it seems there is quite a bit of variation in the price of those two bearings between the normal suppliers..they are still expensive for bearings but it might pay to shop around.
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04-24-2007, 05:34 PM
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Senior Member
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Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: VB, VA
Posts: 7,892
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GTV, Spider or 164 bearing?
__________________
Ciao, Alfisto Steve
Virginia Beach, VA
AROC 164 Tech Advisor
s.patchin@aroc-usa.org
http://www.aroc-usa.org/
Daily drivers: USA models 91 Bianco 164B 5-speed - ALFA 4ME, 91 Argento aka "Quik Silver" 164B w/AT 1QUIK AG, 91 Argento 164L w/AT aka "Quik Silver 2 - ALFA 4US and 93 Rosso 164L 5-speed - ALFISTO.
Rescue projects: Organ donor 91 Nero 164L w/AT and 91 "Old Blue" 164L w/AT
"A day without an Alfa whine is like a day without sunshine"
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04-24-2007, 11:38 PM
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Christopher Boles
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Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: At the other end of the state
Posts: 2,185
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 Sheesh, I forgot that I posted this question. I got to messing around with the bearing shell that was left behind and found I could use a drift punch and hammer to get it off. Once it was off, I polished the shaft and pressed on a new bearing and locked it down. It is now ready to install in a transmission. 
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04-26-2007, 10:40 AM
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Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: Pontiac, IL "Land of no curves"
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Velocedoc- would you happen to have any pics of the bearing removal, I understand what your saying, but am having a tough time visualizing how you can get that thing off with the technique you explained. Maybe I'm just kinda slow?  Were the gears not in the way? I'll be tackling this job in the coming weeks.
__________________
Todd S.
84 Spider Veloce
67 Giulia Sprint GT Veloce
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05-09-2007, 12:14 PM
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I used my press and pressed it off with first gear and the first gear collar/spacer. I figures it was ment to be pressed off anyway. Are there suppose to be seperate inside race and outside race??? Both edges of the races look too clean and perfect to have been sheared? Yet... the manual says nothing about this.
Quentin
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05-09-2007, 06:32 PM
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Christopher Boles
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Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: At the other end of the state
Posts: 2,185
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I did manage to get the race off with out to much of an effort. I put some heat to it with a propane torch and used a drift punch to knock it off. The replacement bearing has two inner half races that when pressed on become one race. Was alot easier than I could have imagined. I polished the shaft with 400 wet/dry sandpaper before reassembly to make the effort easier.
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05-11-2007, 01:52 PM
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Now that all parts are cleaned, inspect, and or replaced... what is the best meathod of pressing everything back on? I have a nice 12 ton press and the apropriate plates that worked awesome for pressing everything off... but it seems like it may be a bit of a trick to press everything back on. Although... I realize you just work backwards.?.? I'll heat the Syncro hubs to 350 deg F as per the shop manual, but i think they are still not going to slide on in an overly easy manner.?.?
Cheers
Sprintn
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05-11-2007, 05:50 PM
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Christopher Boles
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Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: At the other end of the state
Posts: 2,185
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Pressing the new bearing on is really easy. Just find a collette that will fit properly around the inner race, lubricate the shaft with some light grease and it will press on really easy.
About the syncho hubs, heating them up properly is the key. I found that my problem is the woodruff keys want to slide out and the hub gets jammed on the keys, so you have to pull it off and start over. If anyone has an idea how to keep the woodruff keys in place for the hubs I am interested in learning.
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05-14-2007, 04:32 PM
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Collette????????????
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05-14-2007, 06:04 PM
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Christopher Boles
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Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: At the other end of the state
Posts: 2,185
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OH NO! A word that doesn't exist in the meaning I was using. *glup* Well what I meant to say was to find a tube or something similiar that would fit down over the input shaft and sit on the inside face of the bearing race so you could push it into place. 
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05-15-2007, 10:28 AM
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Co worries.  Just wasn't sure if that is what you meant.
What sort of tube did you use? Where did you find it?
Cheers
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05-15-2007, 06:25 PM
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Christopher Boles
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Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: At the other end of the state
Posts: 2,185
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I took a bearing with me to Home Depot/Lowes and looked in the plumbing section fora pipe long enough to go down over the shaft to where the bearing is seated and fits the inner race. Not hard to find.
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05-16-2007, 10:39 AM
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Location: CO
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 Funny.. I was just thinking about doing that last night!
Thanks!
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