Removal of Clutch Disengaging Lever...

othercarsaford · #1 (**permalink**) 12-10-2006, 06:25 PM

Well, it is time for a new clutch in my '68 Spider Junior. The clutch has mechanical actuation like the '67 Duetto.

All seems to be progressing well, but does the Clutch Disengaging Bellcrank Lever need to come off of the aluminum carrier that it and the brake master share before the gearbox can slip down between it and the other side of the tunnel? This is the lever that attaches by the adjustable cable to the throwout bearing yoke. My manual doesn't seem to require that this lever be removed, but it looks like life would be a lot easier with it out of the way. I'd like to use a tranmission jack adaptor to get the gearbox back and down, but I don't want to "bugger" that lever in the process.

The Lever is kept in place by a Key Bolt that appears to be pressed into the bellcrank lever. This bolt must lock the lever onto the shaft that runs through the aluminum carrier.

Any ideas on how to get that bolt and the lever off? The 10mm nut comes right off, but the bolt is hard and fast. A little "assistance" from a drift and mallet doesn't seem to move the Key Bolt, and I am afraid to get too physical. Any advice?

Thanks in advance.

Greasy/Oily in Georgia

othercarsaford · #2 (**permalink**) 12-13-2006, 03:15 PM

No one?

I am thinking about drilling it out...

Does that get anyone's attention?

HMMMM????!!!!

geh458 · #3 (**permalink**) 12-13-2006, 04:17 PM

Can you post a picture or two of what you are talking about? That might help us give you guidance.

othercarsaford · #4 (**permalink**) 12-13-2006, 07:03 PM

I was afraid you would ask for that. I'll try to post something up tomorrow.

Thanks

othercarsaford · #5 (**permalink**) 12-14-2006, 06:49 AM

OK. Let's give this a shot...

First, BEHOLD, THE OILY UNDERSIDE OF MY JUNIOR! This shot gives you a larger perspective of the offending lever...between the trans drain and fill plugs in this picture. The 10mm bolt that comes off no problem is at the top left-center, almost out of the picture, next to the brake master...

I'll try to send one with another view next.

othercarsaford · #6 (**permalink**) 12-14-2006, 06:54 AM

Here is a little bit fuzzy, but closer view of the lever. The large circle surrounds the lever itself, the smaller, "inner circle" surrounds the nut, keybolt and bellcrank shaft that runs through the aluminum carrier that these levers share with the brake master. It is grimy, but I hope you can see it. The grime keeps the car together.

**Andrew** · #7 (**permalink**) 12-14-2006, 09:04 AM

It should be an 11mm nut on a wedge cotter pin. Once you remove the nut, drive the pin out with a small punch. Try not to bend it or booger up the threads. Once it's out, you can remove the lever by sliding it towards the trans, prying the trans a bit sideways, and pushing the lever's shaft as far as it will go into the pedal support piece. Its' a big of an undisciplined prying/levering job.

Getting a straight shot at the cotter to drive it out without having your punch or hammer slide off sideways can be a challenge too. An extra set of hands can help.

Andrew

othercarsaford · #8 (**permalink**) 12-14-2006, 10:58 AM

Thanks, Andrew.

I'll take a look tonight. I swear I did not see the cotter pin, but that doesn't mean I didn't look close enough. I'll let you know.

Thomas

**Andrew** · #9 (**permalink**) 12-14-2006, 11:49 AM

It's a big cotter, like on an old cottered bicycle crank, not a tiny bendable-type cotter pin to lock a nut in place; the wedge bolt itself is the cotter.

Maybe somebody swapped in a regular 6mm (10mm head) bolt? It seems like it wouldn't tighten up properly, and the shaft would rotate some without the arm following it.

Andrew

othercarsaford · #10 (**permalink**) 12-14-2006, 12:06 PM

Andrew,

Do you have a drawing or picture of the key bolt you are talking about? That would help. I took the bolt off last weekend, so I can't now remember for sure if I used a 10mm or 11mm. Regardless, the nut came right off, with a flat washer. Then, the bolt was not going anywhere. The head of the bolt (I don't have a picture of it) looked like it had been pressed (or maybe even peened) into the arm, so the head of the bolt is actually "sunk" into the radius of the mounting part of the arm (in other words, there is no bolt head protruding from the other side). Even some pursuasion with a drift and a mallet (against the nut end of the bolt after the nut was removed) would not budge the bolt.

My parts manual for the 1600 Duetto specifies two different kinds of key bolts. I wonder if the one you describe is the other version?

I'll try to get a better view of it tonight and post more pics tomorrow.

Thanks.

Thomas

othercarsaford · #11 (**permalink**) 12-15-2006, 07:11 AM

Well I spent some more time last night with my lever and key bolt. I am now convinced that this key bolt does not come out of the lever unless it is drilled out and a new one put in its place. Attached are a couple of fuzzy pictures of the bolt and head. I got too close for my camera to focus well. Perhaps you can see the head of the bolt, but it looks as if it is pressed in. It will not budge.

I am going to try to take the gearbox down around it. It looks like the gearbox is narrower closer to bellhousing, which may mean that by the time I back the gearbox out of the clutch assembly, the narrower part of the gearbox will slip down beside the lever.

I'll keep you posted.

Thanks for the help.

**Andrew** · #12 (**permalink**) 12-15-2006, 08:08 AM

It's a wedge. Drive it out, hammering from threaded side. I think you're trying to hammer it out the wrong way.

Andrew

othercarsaford · #13 (**permalink**) 12-15-2006, 08:16 AM

No, I've been hammering from the threaded side, but even with real persuasion (with the nut on the end to protect the threads), the bolt will not move. I have even used a Dremel lightly around the edges of the bolt head side just in case there was a "booger" or something preventing it from backing out. I have hammered on it enough that I am afraid I'll crack the carrier that carries it or tear up the tolerance of the bellcrank shaft in its tube. Already, the lever seems to rotate more freely and "sloppily" than when I started.

Can you think of anything that is small enough to get in there to "press" it out, like maybe a small C-clamp or something? I was hoping someone here had experienced this issue and had a home remedy.

Thanks for trying with me, though.