74 GTV Suspension Upgrades - Page 2 - Alfa Romeo Bulletin Board & Forums

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post #16 of 40 (permalink) Old 01-11-2017, 06:20 AM
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all im saying is that for now, if you need to run it for an extra couple of hundred revs here and there, no harm done.
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post #17 of 40 (permalink) Old 01-12-2017, 01:21 PM Thread Starter
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all im saying is that for now, if you need to run it for an extra couple of hundred revs here and there, no harm done.
You're absolutely right, but I think there's enough other reasons for me to go to the 4.1.

Thanks!
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post #18 of 40 (permalink) Old 01-12-2017, 01:30 PM Thread Starter
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Koni Shocks

So, I'm putting things back together and would like to assess the condition of my shocks. They're Koni reds set pretty stiff. If I have them extended completely and compress them, it takes about 6 seconds to reach the limit of travel. However, if I try to extend them, it's very difficult and takes at least a minute.

I've heard that this is not necessarily a reliable test...

If they need replacing I'll probably go with the reds again. If I find that I want to go to the stiffer yellows I'll move the new red ones to the rear.

Any opinions?
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post #19 of 40 (permalink) Old 01-12-2017, 01:40 PM
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if the shocks are set stiff & moving slowly & w great effort (by hand) most likely they are ok. usually, when they go bad, they are worn out and offer no resistance.
btw, they are only adjustable in rebound. jounce valving is fixed.
can't remember what you have for spring rates, but the reds are a good place to start. people say to set rears dead soft and fronts ~ 1/2 stiff.... not saying i am endorsing that, but over time, that has been the common recommendation. try there and see how the car reacts. shocks mostly (aside from the bump thing) determine transitional behavior - balance on turn in and out. if the front & rear spring rates are reasonable, ride heights ok - and if you are using a shankle/iap/centerline type package, and nothing bizarre w sway bars, should be pretty close. then any oddball behavior in transition, most likely result of shock tuning. trial and error tune to get car where you like it.
you will have fun.
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post #20 of 40 (permalink) Old 01-12-2017, 02:32 PM Thread Starter
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Shocks

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Originally Posted by barboncino105 View Post
if the shocks are set stiff & moving slowly & w great effort (by hand) most likely they are ok. usually, when they go bad, they are worn out and offer no resistance.
btw, they are only adjustable in rebound. jounce valving is fixed.
can't remember what you have for spring rates, but the reds are a good place to start. people say to set rears dead soft and fronts ~ 1/2 stiff.... not saying i am endorsing that, but over time, that has been the common recommendation. try there and see how the car reacts. shocks mostly (aside from the bump thing) determine transitional behavior - balance on turn in and out. if the front & rear spring rates are reasonable, ride heights ok - and if you are using a shankle/iap/centerline type package, and nothing bizarre w sway bars, should be pretty close. then any oddball behavior in transition, most likely result of shock tuning. trial and error tune to get car where you like it.
you will have fun.
Great feedback. Just before reading this I was on the phone with a knowledgeable friend who confirmed the same thing. The front and rear bars are stock and I have the IAP (or Centerline, can't remember) red sport springs that calculate to around 1,200 pounds. RJ also recommended that I stick with the Koni reds until I see how things behave with the new drop spindles and panhard setup.

Thanks!
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post #21 of 40 (permalink) Old 01-13-2017, 08:06 AM
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buona fortuna
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post #22 of 40 (permalink) Old 01-16-2017, 02:36 PM Thread Starter
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Hi,

Anyone have any good "tricks" for removing the inner wheel bearing race on the front? Won't budge with heat and a punch.

Thanks.
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post #23 of 40 (permalink) Old 01-16-2017, 04:34 PM
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Hi,

Anyone have any good "tricks" for removing the inner wheel bearing race on the front? Won't budge with heat and a punch.

Thanks.
The inner bearing race in the wheel hub? Run some weld around the race surface that the rollers run on. This causes the race to contract and shrink a small amount.

Inner bearing race on the stub axle, take to it with a grinder and carefully grind thru it at 1 point. Use a grinding wheel not a cutting wheel and a grinding action not a cutting action.

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post #24 of 40 (permalink) Old 01-16-2017, 04:53 PM Thread Starter
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Inner Bearing Race

It's the race on the inside of the hub for the inner bearing. I appreciate the advice.

I started putting things back together and after tightening the castle nut on the spindle I still had a small amount of play back-and-forth when pushing-pulling on the disk. With everything apart I decided to replace the bearings.

Thanks again.
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post #25 of 40 (permalink) Old 01-16-2017, 07:27 PM
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We use the bead of weld on a bearing race quite often here in heavy industry (Fitter and Turner at an Aussie steel works). Works very well on large and small bearings.

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post #26 of 40 (permalink) Old 01-24-2017, 02:02 PM Thread Starter
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Brembos

Hi,

I replaced the inner and outer bearings and races. I couldn't help dressing-up the calipers a little before installing.

Installation was a little tricky since the mounts on the steering knuckle were slightly off causing the caliper to touch in a couple of spots. I fixed this with some careful grinding to even out the spacing on both sides.

It's amazing how much lighter these are.
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post #27 of 40 (permalink) Old 01-24-2017, 02:06 PM Thread Starter
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Ride Height

Finally got everything back together and had a chance to evaluate the ride height. My understanding is that I should strive for spring pans that are level with the ground. I have 10 mm shims under the springs right now so I think if I remove these it should raise the pans about 1 inch.
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post #28 of 40 (permalink) Old 01-24-2017, 03:53 PM
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Suspension reference points

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Finally got everything back together and had a chance to evaluate the ride height. My understanding is that I should strive for spring pans that are level with the ground. I have 10 mm shims under the springs right now so I think if I remove these it should raise the pans about 1 inch.
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Don`t look at the spring pan. The points to consider are the center of the inner suspension arm bushings, relative to the pivot center of the outer ball joint in the spindle/upright.

When those are the same distance above the level ground that`s about as good as you can expect it to be using 15" wheels.

The spring pans make height adjustment simple as you simply use spacers to lower the pan & the cars height on that side. If it`s too low you have to shim above & or below the spring.
All this needs to be done with sway bars disconnected and with fuel & drivers weight in the seat.

Richard Jemison
RJR Racing

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post #29 of 40 (permalink) Old 01-24-2017, 05:55 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks!
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post #30 of 40 (permalink) Old 01-29-2017, 10:05 AM Thread Starter
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What the.... ???!!!

Ok, so this is a little embarrassing, but look what I found when replacing the diff on my car. No wonder sharp left-handers felt weird. Wonder what it will handle like with even-length springs?
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