Burman Box Rebuild - Page 4 - Alfa Romeo Bulletin Board & Forums

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post #46 of 286 (permalink) Old 07-18-2010, 10:27 AM
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Burman Box

I took the box out of the car and found 3 cracks in the case. Picked up another and took best parts from both and reassembled using wheel bearing grease instead of oil. I also replace the seal although not required.
My box had a universa joint between the steering column and the box and could not find a replacement. This can allow you to remove the box without removing the steering column.
It is working find, however I did put the front wheels on concret blocks and moved the steering from side to side and found the body structure flexing where the box mounts and haven't found any cracks.
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post #47 of 286 (permalink) Old 07-18-2010, 11:39 AM
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Originally Posted by 1750GT View Post
That's great.....slowly but surely we're finding spares for replacing all the wearable items on these units. FYI four sets of gaskets have already been claimed....looks like I should order a few more sets.
if i can get another set for $20 please put me down for one..

thanks

db
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post #48 of 286 (permalink) Old 07-18-2010, 03:56 PM
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Not a problem....Sent you a PM.

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post #49 of 286 (permalink) Old 08-05-2010, 07:24 PM
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Steering Shaft Hardware

Transferred to new thread.....see below.

Steering Column Hardware

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post #50 of 286 (permalink) Old 08-05-2010, 07:59 PM
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Burman Box.

I had some bad bearing, however the shaft that the bearings ride on also had pitting on both ends. I put the shaft in a leath and used emory cloth raped around a screw driver and got rid of some, but not all the pitting.
I assembled the box with wheel bearing grease on all touching parts.
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post #51 of 286 (permalink) Old 01-10-2011, 07:07 PM
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Burman Gasket sets for sale

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Originally Posted by 1750GT View Post
Yeah they turned out nicely. I've received a few requests already for these so I decided to offer a complete gasket set including a new "O" ring as shown below. Total cost will be $20.00 + shipping.
Interest on the gasket sets has been slow but consistent...so I've ordered a few more from the supplier. If anyone is interested, the cost is still $20 per set...shipping extra. PM me with requests.

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Hope I'm not high jacking this thread Rich....but I think this is the best thread that folks will be referring to for assistance on their Box rebuild.

Rossano

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post #52 of 286 (permalink) Old 01-27-2011, 10:24 AM
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I am going to remove my steering box in the near future and I wondered if the worm ever gets pitted or badly worn. Does this happen? In the event that it is pitted or badly worn can it be re-ground or is sourcing a second-hand replacement the only alternative? Or lastly is it a bit of a non issue?
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post #53 of 286 (permalink) Old 01-30-2011, 01:48 AM
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I am going to remove my steering box in the near future and I wondered if the worm ever gets pitted or badly worn. Does this happen? In the event that it is pitted or badly worn can it be re-ground or is sourcing a second-hand replacement the only alternative? Or lastly is it a bit of a non issue?
Hi WA-Alfa!

I believe that it is a non issue. Normally the problems are leaking steeringbox due to the bottom rubber seal or if you are unlucky cracks in the aluminium casting of the box. The worm gear itself should not be an issue. When I took my box apart I did change the small balls that run in the wormgear too. I replaces the old papergaskets by making new ones my self.

Good luck
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post #54 of 286 (permalink) Old 02-06-2011, 09:27 AM
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Bronze bushing - normal to wear?

Hey all..

Great thread. Just received a new, totally uncracked box that I'm going to rebuild to replace my cracked one.

Only thing that gave me pause on disassembly was a helical groove worn into the bronze bushing on the bottom of the box. Can't see a corresponding groove on the internal arm and the arm sits snugly in the bushing. Is this normal or cause for replacing the bushing?

**EDIT - duh should have looked closer at the original thread... looks like these grooves are original. What are they for? http://www.alfabb.com/bb/forums/susp...tml#post811947 **
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post #55 of 286 (permalink) Old 02-06-2011, 11:32 AM
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The groove is to facilitate oil flow along the entire length of the bearing...acting somewhat like a pressure pump.

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post #56 of 286 (permalink) Old 02-12-2011, 03:48 PM
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One more question...

The bottom flange on my steerer gear seems to be rather pitted. Everything else in the box i'm rebuilding was in excellent shape, including the race which holds the ball bearings that bear on the flange in question. I'm wondering if this is normal?

Thanks for your opinions!
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post #57 of 286 (permalink) Old 02-12-2011, 06:08 PM Thread Starter
That is serious pitting. PM me Monday and I'll check and see if I have a spare.

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post #58 of 286 (permalink) Old 02-23-2011, 06:27 AM
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Grainger has the 9/32 balls, in steel (part no. 4RJG1) for $12.42 per 100, and stainless steel (part no.4RJJ2) for $22.53 per 100. I did not buy them as they had to be drop shipped and I have plenty of original ones that were good. If someone has lost a few, send me a PM.

I have found the boxes with the u-joint shaft already have the case bored to accept a standard oil seal. It measures 28x40x7. This seal, and the 8 mm version, must be ordered.

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post #59 of 286 (permalink) Old 02-23-2011, 06:47 AM
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@ Rm-m.

Go the local machine shop and have it regrinded. Should only cost 20-30 USD. The pitches will go through the shaft and then you'll feel them while steering.

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post #60 of 286 (permalink) Old 03-09-2011, 02:21 PM
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Hi Rus,
Yeah, that looks marginally worse than the one I rescued. If you do nothing, you'll get excessive backlash and/or 'notchiness' depending on how you preload the box up with the steel shims when reassembling. Not nice given how good the steering is on these cars when they're set up right. My guess is a combination of incorrect preload, lack of lubrication, poor surface treatment when new, and a hard life lead to this.
To repair the shaft you need a fairly specialised bit of kit - basically a lathe with a separately-powered counter-rotating grinding stone mounted where your tool would usually go on the lathe. You then need to dress the stone to give you a radius approximately equal to that on the face that is pitted (exact radius shouldn't be too critical, just based on the way it works) and then re-grind the face just enough to return it to an un-pitted condition.
I wouldn't like to speculate on what (if any) surface treatment (hardening) was applied when new (although I vaguely remember it looking like it had been heat treated from marks on the steel?) but you might have ground through the hardened layer. Ideally you would re-harden before reassembly. You could test a non-critical part with a small file to get a feel for how hard the resulting surface is.
If you can get the whole job done cheaper than getting a new one, then it might be worth it, but if there are spares available it's a lot of effort! I was a student at the time, and had access to the machine shop...
Hope this helps, and if you have any other questions just drop me a PM.
Regards,
Will
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