Back from the platers we have what appear to be brand new caliper 1/2's. I really encourage this step for any of you looking to rebuild you calipers. Google some local metal refinishers and drop off your calipers and have them done right.
Here you see the caliper 1/2's in yellow zinc and the fasteners have been brought back to a new look with black oxide treatment. New rebuild kits wait patiently by:
When they come back from plating they'll need to be honed out to prep them for new seals and the pistons. Enter McMaster Carr again (McMaster-Carr
) as they supply the 3-stone brake cylinder hone. You can usually find these at Pep Boys as well for around $16.00:
Once the bore is honed the seal goes in...:
...and once the seal is in I slather the bore with caliper grease. Make sure you use caliper grease or caliper assembly lube when you put the calipers back together as other greases will swell the seals and ruin your nice new rebuild:
Now we're moving on to pistons. For pistons, I like to clean the tops and then use POR-20 manifold grey paint. This is their high temp paint and it's extremely durable. Once it dries I take the pistons and polish them with a bench top polishing wheel:
With the dust boots installed we're now ready to press them into the caliper 1/2's. The notch in the piston top needs to face into the oncoming rotor movement by 20 degrees. To determine the proper angle simply run an imaginary line through the middle of the caliper and place the bottom notch on this line.This helps angle the pads into the oncoming rotor and reduces squeal:
Once they are in position I use a bench arbor press to push them into place. You can also use a vise and a suitable socket to help with this step.
Finish it off with a dust boot clip and that part is now behind us:
Finally, it comes time to bolt everything back together. First I put the caliper 1/2 seals (these do not come in rebuild kits) in the nose section of the caliper. Then I install an outside fastener to use as a starter/guide post:
Then I drop the back 1/2 of the caliper down on the nose and start spinning on 11mm nuts:
TIP: Once I start spinning on the nuts I like to have an 11mm socket on a 3" extension nearby. You can hand tighten and arrange the caliper 1/2's prior to torquing them down.
Finally; they get torqued together (sorry for the bad picture). Use the following sequence and number the nuts from left to right:
Torque to 7 ftlbs. 2-3-1-4
Then torque to 17 ftlbs. 2-3-1-4