Restoring Some 105/115 Rear Calipers... - Alfa Romeo Bulletin Board & Forums

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post #1 of 41 (permalink) Old 12-29-2008, 04:59 PM Thread Starter
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Restoring Some 105/115 Rear Calipers...

Hi Gang,

Many here have been extremely helpful when I was searching for some specialty calipers for a rally car. Found them I did and I figured I'd pay back the list with a little "how-to" thread.

I came upon the fact that the 105/115 calipers would be what we were looking for. Originally we wanted the vented rotor kit that was offered by an Alfa supplier but they decided that would be a rules violation so we stuck with the solid rotors. The upgrade for this car is now little more than switching from a 35mm piston to a 38mm piston.

Here's what we started with, it's a pair of 105/115 rears that were stuck tight. With stuck pistons we use a high quality grease gun to literally "pump" the pistons out. You can find the 10x1 adapter fitting at McMaster Carr. I like to use white lithium as it cleans up easier:





The pistons simply push and "plop" out. With fluid there is no high compression/pressure you find with air. It's very safe and effective:





For the second piston I use the same process and block off the now open bore. I use a block off plate made from sheet steel and a round rubber gasket (large rubber washer found at Lowe's). The plate sticks down in the vise and the top is clamped shut with C-Clamps.

Once the pistons are out I begin to dismantle the calipers. Be "VERY" careful with any and all of the M7 hardware on these calipers. They use Ribe heads and they are irreplaceable. There are no sources for Ribe M7 fasteners (or virtually "any" M7 through bolt fasteners for that matter... trust me). Use the proper "Ribe" bit, which is an R5 in this case, to hold the head while turning the 11mm nuts with a fairly large impact. They can be tough. If you have to fight them with a smaller wrench or a hand wrench, use heat in the form of a MAPP torch.







Once the fasteners are out of the way you can take the bleeders out. Be careful here, bleeders can get stuck. Do not use a 7mm open end as it will simply strip the bleeder. Use a deep 7mm or simply use a pair of small Vise-Grips set VERY tight. If they give you trouble, go back and use the MAPP torch to heat the bleeder and surrounding area first.



Once the shells are stripped I take a hooked dental pick and remove the seals and it's off to the platers for a fresh coat of yellow zinc.

Eric Shea
Sandy, UT

Last edited by PMB_Performance; 12-29-2008 at 05:28 PM.
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post #2 of 41 (permalink) Old 12-29-2008, 05:25 PM Thread Starter
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Assembly Time

Back from the platers we have what appear to be brand new caliper 1/2's. I really encourage this step for any of you looking to rebuild you calipers. Google some local metal refinishers and drop off your calipers and have them done right.

Here you see the caliper 1/2's in yellow zinc and the fasteners have been brought back to a new look with black oxide treatment. New rebuild kits wait patiently by:







When they come back from plating they'll need to be honed out to prep them for new seals and the pistons. Enter McMaster Carr again (McMaster-Carr) as they supply the 3-stone brake cylinder hone. You can usually find these at Pep Boys as well for around $16.00:



Once the bore is honed the seal goes in...:



...and once the seal is in I slather the bore with caliper grease. Make sure you use caliper grease or caliper assembly lube when you put the calipers back together as other greases will swell the seals and ruin your nice new rebuild:



Now we're moving on to pistons. For pistons, I like to clean the tops and then use POR-20 manifold grey paint. This is their high temp paint and it's extremely durable. Once it dries I take the pistons and polish them with a bench top polishing wheel:



With the dust boots installed we're now ready to press them into the caliper 1/2's. The notch in the piston top needs to face into the oncoming rotor movement by 20 degrees. To determine the proper angle simply run an imaginary line through the middle of the caliper and place the bottom notch on this line.This helps angle the pads into the oncoming rotor and reduces squeal:



Once they are in position I use a bench arbor press to push them into place. You can also use a vise and a suitable socket to help with this step.



Finish it off with a dust boot clip and that part is now behind us:



Finally, it comes time to bolt everything back together. First I put the caliper 1/2 seals (these do not come in rebuild kits) in the nose section of the caliper. Then I install an outside fastener to use as a starter/guide post:



Then I drop the back 1/2 of the caliper down on the nose and start spinning on 11mm nuts:



TIP: Once I start spinning on the nuts I like to have an 11mm socket on a 3" extension nearby. You can hand tighten and arrange the caliper 1/2's prior to torquing them down.

Finally; they get torqued together (sorry for the bad picture). Use the following sequence and number the nuts from left to right:

Torque to 7 ftlbs. 2-3-1-4

Then torque to 17 ftlbs. 2-3-1-4



Finito!


Eric Shea
Sandy, UT

Last edited by PMB_Performance; 12-29-2008 at 05:44 PM.
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post #3 of 41 (permalink) Old 12-29-2008, 05:35 PM Thread Starter
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Next...

Next we'll dig into these for Brian...




Eric Shea
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post #4 of 41 (permalink) Old 12-30-2008, 07:31 AM
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That's very impressive work, Eric. I just looked at the pricing for this service on your website. Prices seem pretty reasonable for the amount of work that's put into the rebuild.

Brian __________________________________
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post #5 of 41 (permalink) Old 12-30-2008, 09:44 AM
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This is fantastic!

This should get a sticky for sure!
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post #6 of 41 (permalink) Old 12-30-2008, 10:10 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks Guys,

Brian, your's are all apart. They were in excellent condition. The adjuster shaft seals were hardened and there was some old grunge/sludge type fluid in there but overall great shape. One of the bleeders appears to have been damaged in shipping (bent a little) but it came out fine. One of your outer adjusters was missing the lock clip so I'm sourcing that and the outer adjuster seals (which are larger than the ones we normally see).

My only concern with these IHB (integrated hand brake) types for the Alfa is the cable attachment cam/pivot. They are pot metal and I need to hand deliver them to the platers so he knows about it before dipping them. If they went through the normal acid cleaning process it would be gone when it came out of the tank.

ATE had made some tremendous leaps with these compared to some of the Porsche 914 and 914-6 and the Ferrari 308 calipers. One is the worm gear adjustment mechanism. The other is increasing the size of the outer adjuster from 4mm to 5mm. The 4mm adjuster on those calipers "always" stripped.

I'll start posting some pics soon. I'd expect them to go into plating next week.

Eric Shea
Sandy, UT

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post #7 of 41 (permalink) Old 02-26-2009, 10:42 AM
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i have a quick question. if i "split" my rear left cal (82 gtv6) is it now "thrashed and ready for the trash"? by the way, what you have posted up here is great! thanks

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post #8 of 41 (permalink) Old 02-26-2009, 03:21 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PMB_Performance View Post
Back from the platers we have what appear to be brand new caliper 1/2's. I really encourage this step for any of you looking to rebuild you calipers. Google some local metal refinishers and drop off your calipers and have them done right.

Here you see the caliper 1/2's in yellow zinc and the fasteners have been brought back to a new look with black oxide treatment. New rebuild kits wait patiently by:

When they come back from plating they'll need to be honed out to prep them for new seals and the pistons. Enter McMaster Carr again (McMaster-Carr) as they supply the 3-stone brake cylinder hone. You can usually find these at Pep Boys as well for around $16.00:


Once the bore is honed the seal goes in...:
Hi, not sure why you honed the bores as the pistons seal on the o-ring. Is it a piston to bore clearance issue? Do you do anything with the o-ring groove after plating or just leave it plated??

BTW I have used the grease gun approach for pumping seized motorcycle pistons free or out of their bores.

Regards

Ken

Ken Geiger, Toronto
1965 GTA, RHD, Stradale
ex- 1965 GTA, RHD, Corsa, Trans/Am 66-72
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post #9 of 41 (permalink) Old 03-01-2009, 10:31 AM
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Very nice job Eric...you're lucky to have a plater near you willing to work with small quantities. In our area, not many will undertake to plate parts for less than $200....so one needs to do a big batch of parts at one time in order to make it worthwhile.

Rossano

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post #10 of 41 (permalink) Old 03-02-2009, 06:48 PM Thread Starter
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We usually send in a large batch every week... PM me if you want some calipers plated. The USPS Flat Rate boxes make it doable.

Eric Shea
Sandy, UT
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post #11 of 41 (permalink) Old 03-02-2009, 06:49 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rawr View Post
i have a quick question. if i "split" my rear left cal (82 gtv6) is it now "thrashed and ready for the trash"? by the way, what you have posted up here is great! thanks
No way... that's a myth.

What size fasteners does that caliper use and... let me know if you need some seals (PM me).

Eric Shea
Sandy, UT
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post #12 of 41 (permalink) Old 03-03-2009, 07:02 AM
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We usually send in a large batch every week... PM me if you want some calipers plated. The USPS Flat Rate boxes make it doable.
Thanks for the offer....I'll keep that in mind and will look into the cost of shipping when I get to the point of re-assembling my calipers...which isn't for a while yet. Right now I've disassembled both front and rear calipers...and need to buy the rebuild kits.

Rossano

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post #13 of 41 (permalink) Old 08-07-2009, 05:22 PM
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Totally awesome! Thank you!
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post #14 of 41 (permalink) Old 08-12-2010, 04:26 PM
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Finito!

Eric,

Could you please tell me what the correct finish is on the pad holding in pins and the spring plate (that I assume stops the pads rattling)?.

Thanks to your post I now know the correct finish for everything else on my rear calipers .
Pete

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post #15 of 41 (permalink) Old 08-12-2010, 05:24 PM Thread Starter
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The correct finish on all of the ATE stuff is yellow "Zinc". Many people get confused as a lot of these cars have cad parts on them but the ATE calipers were "zinc". Yellow zinc to be precise.

Often the yellow dichromate will wear or, a previous owner may have aggressively cleaned the calipers with a wire brush or wheel and the calipers will appear silver (clear zinc) but, once the calipers have been disassembled the mating surfaces will show yellow dichromate.

So... pad springs and pins will be yellow zinc as well.

Hope that helps.

E.

Eric Shea
Sandy, UT
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