Restoring Some 105/115 Rear Calipers... - Page 3 - Alfa Romeo Bulletin Board & Forums

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post #31 of 41 (permalink) Old 06-29-2011, 12:57 AM
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Depends which side of the car the caliper is for.

Pete

'71 1750 Series 2 GTV:
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post #32 of 41 (permalink) Old 06-29-2011, 01:33 AM
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Well that's obvious now - a friend warned me this piston rotation could become a bit of a mind bender. Therefore it's really important once they are all reassembled to label them left and right.

1974 GTV 2000, 1986 75 1.8, 1989 75 2.0 TS
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post #33 of 41 (permalink) Old 06-29-2011, 05:48 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Am I missing something
Yes, the graphic you posted shows the "drivers side" caliper. My example is showing the "passengers side". The same principle applies with the rotation of the disc being the determining factor as to which way the piston goes in.

Here's the same graphic showing the line process (the red line) and the relationship to the bleeder (the green dot) on the caliper:
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post #34 of 41 (permalink) Old 06-29-2011, 05:50 AM Thread Starter
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Therefore it's really important once they are all reassembled to label them left and right.
They're already labeled. You just need to learn how to read "bleeder". Bleeders are always at the top.

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post #35 of 41 (permalink) Old 06-29-2011, 04:35 PM
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Went through this as well with the brake shop - Even they had problems with this.
The centerline graphic is very confusing and only the templates were useful.
In the end I found the graphics (attached images) in shop manuals. These are much clearer as they show the orientation on the car

In summary - The recessed part is towards the disk rotation and the (extended) line of notches would line up to the center of the hub (about 20 degrees)
Just ensure the bleed screw is at the top and inward facing
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post #36 of 41 (permalink) Old 07-02-2011, 02:03 AM
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And that would be the friend that warned me and the instructions he provided that finally put me on the right track. And thanks guys for your simple instructions and patience to what was (now) obviously simple but made difficult by the LHD/RHD transpositions, rotations, and my own completely left/right dyslexia. In my defense though it has been a very long week with very little sleep - so my advice is NEVER work on your car when you're tired and short on patience. So here's a few pic of my finished work. If you spot anything assembled incorrectly please don't comment - I think I rather die in a fireball than have to push the pistons out again. Joking - please do comment.
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post #37 of 41 (permalink) Old 07-06-2011, 09:07 PM Thread Starter
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Excellent job!

It doesn't "appear" that the pistons have been pushed in all the way. With the knockback mechanisms (those pins and mechanisms in the pistons) they can be tough to get in. We use a bench arbor press. The piston should "bounce" by about 1/8" once they hit bottom. This will tell you that the spring in the knockback is working properly.

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post #38 of 41 (permalink) Old 07-06-2011, 11:49 PM
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Thanks for that. The caliper halves are only loosely assembled, so I'll pull them apart again and make sure the pistons are all the way home.

1974 GTV 2000, 1986 75 1.8, 1989 75 2.0 TS
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post #39 of 41 (permalink) Old 10-08-2012, 08:54 AM
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An excellent thread! I'm just getting into this with my '69 GTV 1750. This is BIG help!
Thanks Eric & everyone who made this a great & informative read!
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post #40 of 41 (permalink) Old 01-23-2017, 05:25 PM
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This file has full sized templates for the ATE piston alignment. I got them from IAP a while back and note that Centerline instruction don't have the templates. Print an extra page, glue onto card stock and cut them out for use.

Removing caliper pistons: using rubber tipped air nozzle at the brake line opening, with a a rag or piece of wood between piston to keep them from getting damaged when they pop out. If only one comes out, then use a small clamp (4") to push and hold one back in partially then do the same to get the other piston out (holding it in with clamp). If aligning or removing the piston use a channel lock (small one) to grab the projecting part of the caliper (not the polished part) to gently twist it out. Cleaned out bore and piston with steel wool; clean groove with steel wool using a popsicle stick and a pick (angles and straight) to do this. Blow out passages with air; rinse out with some brake fluid; insert rubber rings and lubricate with brake fluid; align using above gauge and press back in with clamp. Use old brake pad to push it in to the limits of the caliper with clamp.
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File Type: pdf Alfa IAP brake piston alignment tool template.pdf (86.5 KB, 37 views)

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post #41 of 41 (permalink) Old 02-17-2017, 09:38 PM
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Thanks for the file on the "template"..
that is going to be useful

"No chance, no destiny, no fate can circumvent, change or control the firm resolve of a determined soul"

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