Steering Box Seal

[velocedoc]

I did some searching before posting but I really didn't see a definitive answer as to what seal goes in to the bottom of the steering box.
Anyone know what size, where to get one and cost? The aggravation of installing this seal must be priceless.

[Alfajay]

Christopher:

Seals are one of the few parts that are fairly easy to source. Here in Orange County there are several suppliers with names like "Acme Bearing", or "Amalgomated Seal". Just take your old seal into one of these places, let them know its metric, and they will probably have a replacement in stock. At worst, they will can order one, and have it within a few days. Most seals cost under $10. All the supplier should need is the seal's OD, ID, and thickness. Measuring the shaft diameter with a caliper is probably a good idea if you don't disassemble the steering box - otherwise, bring in all the components so you can test the fit.

[papajam]

There's an excellent how-to by Roadtrip in this thread that includes the seal size.

[velocedoc]

Papajam, that is the "cats meow" when it comes to repairing the seal on a steering box. Thank you! I will make a few calls tomorrow and see if I can track down a seal locally. I have the tools so the rest is just labor, but dang its cold outside! I will wait until the weather warms up as its not a pressing problem. or should I say a pulling problem?

[Alfajay]

VeloceDoc:

Which of your Alfas needs the steering box seal? Roadtrip's procedure is labeled "Burman", but my understanding is that the Burman boxes are all "ball screw" - when you disassemble them, you suddenly have ball bearings all over the place. I have disassembled - and successfully re-assembled Burman boxes - but it can't be done with the box in place. The Alfa manuals describe the procedure - even the aftermarket ones like Glenns or AutoBooks show exploded views of the Burman and ZF (see below) boxes.

If your 101 Alfa needs the seal, it probably has a ZF - these are simply worm & roller, and have a lot fewer parts (i.e., no loose ball bearings). When Roadtrip's procedure says "these boxes have few moving parts", it sounds like he is referring to the ZF, rather than a Burman ball screw style. The ZF boxes are characterized by the large screw + locknut at the top that allows you to adjust the freeplay. Burman boxes adjust freeplay with shims, and don't have that screw + locknut at the top.

Another alternative would be to just follow the first N steps in Roadtrip's procedure (through removing the steering arm from the sector shaft), and then just use a seal removal tool to pop off the old seal, and a large socket or other driver to install the new one. The disadvantage of this is that you don't get to inspect the sealing surface of the shaft. The advantage is that you don't have ball bearings rolling all over your garage floor (assuming you have a late 105 or 115 car with the Burman box).

Hope I haven't totally confused you!

[velocedoc]

Jay, you haven't confused me at all. You have clarified. This is for my wifes '76 spider. The seal is leaking and making a mess of a clean car. The car was in storage for 15 years, and now after putting 100 miles on the odo, things are starting to show up that need attention. I was pleased with how things have come together over all with just a couple minor issues after having gone through the entire car. The steering box seal is just one of them and probably the most problematic one to repair. I was thinking of just popping the seal out but it was trying to find the right dimensions (I have that now).

Sidebar story about a steering box problem. I took delivery a 1974 Berlina as part trade on another car that I had up for sale. The car had been sitting for sometime and shuffled from pillar to post. The car drove fine around the block, put in some fresh gas and injector cleaner and headed home. Out by Magic Mountain on I-5, I am blasting in the fast lane about 75 mph, when I see my exit coming up. I went to turn the steering wheel and nothing happened! I pushed and pulled but the car refused to move. Slowing down with the flashes going, I pulled as hard as I could on the steering wheel and it broke free. Now I had my hands full as the car refused to answer the steering wheel input! I did manage to get the car slowed down and under control by turning the steering wheel from stop to stop. Once I got the car stopped on the shoulder of the road and my emotions under control, I checked the steering box. It was EMPTY of any fluid. The box must have been like that for ages or it drained it self out while sitting. I did manage to drive the remaining 35 miles home very slowly. Once I got the car going straight it was easy to control, it was those corners on the road that were scary trying to get the car to respond to input. The result was the bearings in the end of the box fell out and jammed the shaft! Now you know why it is important to keep oil/grease in the box. Lesson learned.
Finally there was a tip that came out years ago to modify the cap that goes over the filler hole. Take a very "tiny" drill, but not so big to allow dirt in and put a relief hole in the top. This allows the box to vent when it gets heated, relieving any pent up pressure, thereby slowing down any drainage from the bottom seal.

[jgates]

Worth a try...auto transmission seal sealer additive.

John Gates
Enumclaw, WA
'65 Spider Arruginnito

[ossodiseppia]

Quote:

Originally Posted by velocedoc I did some searching before posting but I really didn't see a definitive answer as to what seal goes in to the bottom of the steering box. Anyone know what size, where to get one and cost? The aggravation of installing this seal must be priceless.

[Alfajay]

Velocedoc had written:

"there was a tip that came out years ago to modify the cap that goes over the filler hole. Take a very "tiny" drill, but not so big to allow dirt in and put a relief hole in the top. This allows the box to vent when it gets heated, relieving any pent up pressure, thereby slowing down any drainage from the bottom seal."

I'm skeptical. I understand the principal: with the steering box located near the exhaust manifold, heat would cause the oil to expand and lose viscosity, both of which would aggreviate leakage through the seal. HOWEVER, the oil filler on these boxes is just a rubber plug - I doubt that thing would contain pressure. In other words, as the oil expands due to heat, the increased pressure in the air above the fluid would just leak out past the little black plug. I don't see a need for a vent hole.

You were brave man to drive that Berlina with dodgey steering!

My guess is that your '76 spider does have a Burman ball bearing box, and does take a conventional seal - not an O ring. Replacing the seal is likely to fix your problem - clearly the box hasn't run dry (yet), since it keeps leaving puddles on your garage floor. So the bearing that keeps the sector shaft centered should still be OK, and the shaft shouldn't be rusted (since it has been coated with oil).

[velocedoc]

Jay, about the vent hole, I was just sharing what I learned along time ago. Seems plausible even if not logical.

[papajam]

Quote:

Originally Posted by Alfajay I'm skeptical.

[papajam]

Just found this post.

[genericwood]

For what it's worth, I've replaced the seals on a Burman box with the box in the car. It isn't hard to keep the balls in place. You just have to be careful. It's a much easier job than most make it out to be! Chris, I'm surprised you didn't break the steering box housing on that Berlina. These boxes are prone to failure if you really have to lean on the wheel like that.

By the way, does anyone have an extra 2L GTV steering box laying around. It's a Burman box with a u-joint right at the back. I really need a spare for my race car. I'm sure I can find trading stock or pay you a fair price!

Erik

[velocedoc]

Erik, just sent you a PM