20 Degrees?

[BattleBug]

I'm in the process of installing CL's performance brake kit, I thought it would be a one-day job but she's fighting me at every step (don't they all?)--this leads to a couple o' questions.
1. Since I had to drill out the screws that held hub to rotor in the front, does anyone know of a surefire method to remove the screws in the rear? PB Blaster, heat, impact?? Also, is replacing the screws required? Won't the tension of the lug nuts hold the rotors in place? If I replace the screws is anti-sieze OK?
2. 20 degrees? My Alfa workshop manual alludes to a "20 degree " position of the piston. I see that there is a step machined on the pistons' rims--how does that relate to the 20 degrees WRT wheel rotation?
3. Are caliper paints worth a darn? If so, would you also paint the exposed surfaces of the hub/rotor? What color...black?

T.I.A!!

[Tifosi]

Hub screws: dunno, but it sorta makes sense that the wheel whould hold it all together.

For getting stuck ones out I can't think much beyond impact screwdriver, heat and PB blaster which already went through your head anyway (I suppose one could just drill them out too)


Paint: some are pretty good and go a long way toward stopping that sexy rusty caliper look.

Doing the edge of the rotor might be a bit on the frivoulous side though.

I'd recommend brush on over spray as you can control the application much better (as in get in all the corners without wasting half a can and it also saves a lot of hassle in regard to masking the cylinders along with the line and bleeder holes.)

Goldish silver is the caliper color new out of box, black would prolly be acceptable, but red is sorta sexy in it's own way. (I opted for red....)


20 degrees: Click this link and it'll take you to IAP's tech section where you'll find a description of what you ask and PDF templates that you can download then print and cut out.

[BattleBug]

Thanks Tifosi