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Old 09-29-2006, 09:12 AM
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Question Idler arm adjustment

I have noticed that the idler arm on my 1969 Spider is a little loose. The shaft slides up and down about 1mm in the bearing housing. It doesn't appear to be a sloppy fit side to side, so I don't think the bearings are worn. Is there an end float type of adjustment that would remove the play, or is some movement acceptable?
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Old 09-29-2006, 03:34 PM
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I haven't taken one apart but here's a picture from the shop manual. It sure seems like there are enough washers in there that they must have some influence on the free play... #5 are 'washers' as is #10
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Old 09-30-2006, 03:44 PM
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I took the cap off the top of the idler and there is a nut, held with a lock washer. When it slides up and down it looks like the top bush is moving within the housing, not the shaft itself - odd. I can't see what is happening at the bottom but I'll try to tighten up the nut and see if it removes the free play.
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Old 10-19-2006, 12:06 AM
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Hi mate,

I had the same problem with the idler in my Duetto - If you take off the nut and the lockwasher, there's a special washer(s) underneath with a small hole offset from centre that slips over a tiny roll pin to stop it turning with the idler arm. Mine was marked with a size in mm I think - appears to be a precision spacer - perhaps they measured the required size at the factory and fitted the right one - and over time with wear, you need to add a slightly larger one. Mine still had ~1mm vertical slop even with the nut tightened right down.

I made another washer (about 1.1mm) and fitted it here on top of the existing one, (with plenty of grease in between, as these parts do rotate against eachother) then put the lock washer and nut back on and tighened up until the up/down slop was gone, then peened the lock washer over to lock in place.


I think the only other option is to remove the idler completely and inspect the washers / spacers in the base of the housing . As far as I can tell the internal bushings only control axial movement of the shaft, not vertical.

If you do end up pulling the whole idler housing out - consider fitting a grease nipple a-la something either Papajam or Osso did elsewhere on the list (memory like a seive me)

Anyway - this sorted mine out - good luck with yours !

Scott.
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Old 10-25-2006, 02:09 AM
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Did it reduce the play in the steering wheel or did you notice any difference in the steering feel at all?
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Old 10-25-2006, 05:50 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cosmo
Did it reduce the play in the steering wheel or did you notice any difference in the steering feel at all?
Not really - it removed a 'clunk' noise under braking, where the idler would move up in the housing, and then clunk down when the brakes were released.

Side to side play in the steering is usually Tie rod ends or steering box (if there's more play in the centre, compared to, say, halfway to the rh lock. If you're in the UK you probably have the RHD box (burman I think) There's some great advise on the bb re adjusting shims for these).

I'd start with the tie rods - they wear out pretty quickly compared to everything else if you can use a large screwdriver to lever the round housing part up against the spline part that mounts to the arm and it moves noticeably, that's a good sign of a dead one. Compare them all to eachother as a benchmark - there's usually one that's more worn than the rest You probably already know this
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