Trunion Bushing Replacement

ossodiseppia · #1 (**permalink**) 11-10-2003, 07:33 AM

I want to replace the trunion bushings. I've already removed the bushing from the trunion, but can't figure out how to get the bushing out of the mount. I know it's a real pain in the %$@, but I'd like to do it anyway. The bushing is pressed in from only one side and that's the same side it needs to come out. I think what I may end up doing is just buying new mounts and bushigs. It's a lot easier that way.

Keven · #2 (**permalink**) 11-10-2003, 08:06 AM

Osso,

Might take the part and the new bushing to a reputable machine shop. They should have a good press or puller to do the job.

Whats the cost difference between replacement, and pressing in a new bushing?

The rear susapension is my next project, any tips or good lessons you have learned?

Thanks

ossodiseppia · #3 (**permalink**) 11-10-2003, 09:17 AM

I have a press, but can't figure out a way to press out the bushing. I'll more than likely go the route of getting the new pieces. I'm not that worried about the money.

The trailing arm bushings are a bear. The sleeves that they press into are brazed on. So, extreme care must be taken when removing the bushing. I was able to press out one of them. The rest had to be removed the hard way.

Drill out the rubber. Use a hack saw to cut the bushing sleeve. Be careful so as not to cut the sleeve that is brazed to the trailing arm. You may actually end up cutting into it a bit, but it's ok. Press or just push out the bushing. Buy only OEM bushings. The ones I got from IAP didn't fit. I could push them in with my bare hands. I had the same problem with the sway bar bushings. I went with OEM on those to.

Dropping the trailing arms is pretty simple. A floor jack works best. You just need to be careful. One slip could cost you a digit. The same applies to the front springs.

Here's my version of the front spring compressor tool.

**smestas** · #4 (**permalink**) 11-10-2003, 10:34 AM

Id use a torch on that darn bushing and bun/melt it right out of there.

ossodiseppia · #5 (**permalink**) 11-10-2003, 10:46 AM

I need to remove the metal sleeve as well. The bushing is similar to the trailing arm bushings. I've drilled out the rubber, but the metal sleeve that surrounds the rubber is still pressed into the mount. The bushing gets pressed in from the side that is not visible in the picture. If you look at the picture, you can see that there is no way to get to the sleeve to press it out. There is no way to get a hack saw in there either.

**Roadtrip** · #6 (**permalink**) 11-10-2003, 03:58 PM

I never done it, but here's a couple of suggestions:

1. Use a hacksaw and just saw through the lip of the outer holder and through the inner bushing's metal. I don't see where there's any stress on that holder that a cut would affect. You could always tack it back with a stick welder afterwards.

or

2. Grind out a couple of divots opposite each other on the rounded side of the outer sleeve. Grind a stout piece of flat stock to fit the outside diameter of the inner bushing and press or hammer it out. A bit of heat on the outer portion would help as well.

To get the rear trans bushing out, I had to carefully slice the bushing with a hacksaw in order for it to compress enough to get out. (I didn't have a press handy) Elegant it wasn't, but it worked.

You could take those buggers up to the machine shop, but I'm pretty sure you're not gonna want to watch them get 'em out.

ossodiseppia · #7 (**permalink**) 11-10-2003, 06:52 PM

I had thought of that as a last result before buying new ones. I was just to darn chicken to do it. Well, no guts no glory. I'll go for the glory this weekend. Thanks for the suggestion

**Roadtrip** · #8 (**permalink**) 11-10-2003, 08:04 PM

A couple of more thoughts . .

1. Maybe a dremel tool with a cutter burr

Or even better and faster . . . . .

2. Set the assembly in a vice, flange side up. Take your trusty saber saw and trim a metal cutting blade (or shim the top of the assembly) so that it's the correct depth is reached at the bottom of the stroke, then very carefully cut down through the bushing metal at two places, but not into the holder. Use a broken off hacksaw blade by hand to cut through the last few micros of metal before you hit the holder. Should pop out easily after that.

norton · #9 (**permalink**) 11-10-2003, 11:27 PM

i've just replaced all the bushings on my 84,including the trunnion bushings,i took a torch to the rubber part and used an air chisel to ' vibrate' the metal outer part out of the retainer,take care not to put too deep a gouge in the bushing holder.
john l.

alfa_corse · #10 (**permalink**) 11-28-2003, 05:20 PM

Osso-

That spring-compressor fixture you made is nice; how long are the rods that trap the pan bolts? I'm assuming that they are long enough for the stock springs, right?

-Russ

ossodiseppia · #11 (**permalink**) 11-28-2003, 07:51 PM

They are 13", but that was just a bit too short. So, I needed to do a little squeezing to get the jack in place. Please do not use a piece of angle iron like I used. It is just not strong enough. As you can see from the attached picture, it bends. I think some box tubing (is that what you call it?) will be much stronger.