Time to rebuild the brakes, I guess... - Page 2

**Bill** · #16 (**permalink**) 10-01-2009, 08:35 PM

Nice job Peter, I guess this means you will be ready for this weekends romp thru the Hill Country!

NZ1300 Ti · #17 (**permalink**) 10-02-2009, 04:55 AM

The tapering of the pad could be due the cut-out on the piston being in the wrong position? here's a link to what i'm talking about. you may already know this though.

http://www.alfabb.com/bb/forums/susp...-calipers.html

**Peter** · #18 (**permalink**) 10-16-2009, 10:46 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by NZ1300 Ti

The tapering of the pad could be due the cut-out on the piston being in the wrong position? here's a link to what i'm talking about. you may already know this though.

http://www.alfabb.com/bb/forums/susp...-calipers.html

Sprintn · #19 (**permalink**) 10-26-2009, 01:02 PM

Dang these old calipers are difficult to get clean!!!
Once clean, can anyone recommend a primer and paint to use on them that will withstand the harsh elements that brakes have to deal with? I guess Powder coating is out of the question since everyone seams to say to not split the calipers. evidently they are very difficult to get to seal again. Plus... no one seems to stock a complete rebuild kit for them.?.?
Thanks for any hints out there!
Cheers
Sprintn

**PMB_Performance** · #20 (**permalink**) 10-26-2009, 03:16 PM

Hey Sprintn,

I can probably help with the kits and some BTDT advice.

Brake cleaner and a wire brush work well to clean calipers. ***IMPORTANT*** do not use a heavy amount of cleaner on the rear calipers with the integrated handbrake. There is a wiper seal on the handbrake arm that can buldge if it gets exposed to an excessive amount of brake cleaner. If that happens, your handbrake arm can stick.

If they're too far gone I find it best to entertain replating them. This is not as difficult as it seems. Most major cities have a plating shop. ATE used yellow zinc in their plating process. We has a NOS set tested at our plater that does everything (Cad, Zinc etc.) they are zinc.

There is absolutely no problem splitting calipers. Understandably, the factory didn't want every Tom, Dick and Harry with a set of metrics digging into something as important as brake calipers. And... can you imagine the lidigation if a rebuild procedure was written into the Haynes manuals as such? All you need are caliper 1/2 seals and the proper torque specs and sequence. I would categorize it as easier than changing plugs.

I'm not a fan of any other coating other than the zinc. Here's some of my reasons:

1. We painted some calipers for a client. We went to clean them up with some brake cleaner and guess what happened... the ceramic caliper paint melted off. If you think they're hard to clean now... If you must paint, POR15 will probably last longest and be the easiest to clean. It will probably cost as much as doing them right however.

2. We've powdercoated calipers. The fastener tollerence is tight on these. To powder coat them properly means masking and pluggin over 20 surfaces. Now imagine how the torque settings apply with powder built up under the head of the fasteners. A plug leaves a ridge at the opening of the hole. Matting surfaces of the mounting ears should also be bare... lots and lots of work to powder these properly. If you must powder coat them, I would say assemble them first and leave the dust boots off and have them tape the piston bores. Remember, they should get 450 deg. in the powder oven. While brakes can get there every day... you'll want to take care with seals etc.

3. Zinc. It's lasted this long. A good heavy coat of zinc will probably give you another 20-30 years. It looks good and... it simply works. You can actually coat the bores with it etc. (just like the factory did). And while it does negate some of that [s]ricer[/s] err... racer look, it will net you a damn good looking caliper, one that looks like it belongs on your car. Local platers can probably do this for $20-50 bucks. Plate the caliper 1/2 in yellow and the fasteners in black zinc.

Hope that helps.

E.

P.S. Peter, you probably had a sticking piston on that one pad. I'd be concerned about the finger tight nut though. The method I've always used is to tighten them until the washer underneath is tight, then back off the nut until that washer can just be moved with a screwdriver... then lock it down. As others have said, they shouldn't be tight but they shouldn't be finger tight either. The "made noise when I went around a corner" comment has me thinking the bearings may have been too loose.

Sprintn · #21 (**permalink**) 10-26-2009, 03:36 PM

PMB,
That was very good of you! Thank you very much for the time and tips! I need to think about this a bit. I may just clean them as much as i can then paint them and install new blunger seals (the ones that are visable)(one is torn)... as i intend on upgrading to something else in the future so right now i just want them to work smoothly and look presentable. However... I may hit you up for a rebuild kit if I might.?.?
I'll keep you posted
Cheers
Sprint

**PMB_Performance** · #22 (**permalink**) 10-26-2009, 04:12 PM

Not a problem. Happy to help.

I can supply you with kits that have the caliper 1/2 seals as well. Most FLAPS have some type of zinc looking spray. I believe Eastwood had a two part kit with the gold and a rainbow coating. May want to try that route if they're only temporary. I've found it's not worth it to get the more expensive caliper rattle can stuff... viva la NO difference.

Sprintn · #23 (**permalink**) 10-26-2009, 04:51 PM

PMB.. I'll PM you.
Thanks!

**Peter** · #24 (**permalink**) 10-29-2009, 07:57 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by PMB_Performance

P.S. Peter, you probably had a sticking piston on that one pad. I'd be concerned about the finger tight nut though. The method I've always used is to tighten them until the washer underneath is tight, then back off the nut until that washer can just be moved with a screwdriver... then lock it down. As others have said, they shouldn't be tight but they shouldn't be finger tight either. The "made noise when I went around a corner" comment has me thinking the bearings may have been too loose.

**Stan Murray** · #25 (**permalink**) 10-30-2009, 12:01 PM

Peter, just wanted to add that when doing brakes on my 67 I did all the rebuild thing like you and eventually figured out that my dragging was cause by a bad brake hose. It would let fluid into the caliper but would not release. Put new hoses on both sides and have had no problem since. Had the same problem and fix on a 69.

Looks good !
Stan

**Peter** · #26 (**permalink**) 10-30-2009, 01:45 PM

I read that before, and therefore also replaced the hoses

Thanks!