Brake line flushing

**Geoman** · #1 (**permalink**) 02-07-2009, 06:25 PM

As I continue to work on and learn about my '77 Spider, I'm getting to the point of replacing the brake fluid. Looking at the brake lines that come off the MC, I followed them to what looks like a junction box located under the wiper fluid reservoir. What is this component called and is it necessary to disconnect the brake lines here and clean the inside of this component separately, or will new brake fluid and subsequently bleeding of the brakes be all that is necessary?

Thanks!

**1750GT** · #2 (**permalink**) 02-11-2009, 08:40 PM

Hey Reed, I see that your thread has received no replies yet. Unfortunately I've noticed that this technical forum does not seem to get the same number of views as the Spider Forum does. You'd probably get a much stronger reply if you post your thread in that Forum. If that fails, I would strongly recommend that you purchase an Alfa parts manual, workshop manual and tech bulletins for your car...I got all of these for my car from cardisc....IMHO they're by far the single most valuable tool I posses.

**Tifosi** · #3 (**permalink**) 02-11-2009, 09:48 PM

One of the better 'don't need to take everything apart' means of flushing out all the old fluid and getting new in the whole system is a pressure bleed kit. (IAP has one, and surely others too if'n you look around)

It gets nice new fluid in it, connects to the MS resevior where that cap is, a little air pressure put to it (many have built on hand pumps and gauges to let you know you're in the right zone) and go around opening bleeder valves until fresh fluid comes out.

If your bleeders actually work and don't just snap off, you're looking at around 20 minutes or less for the whole job from start to finish.

**Geoman** · #4 (**permalink**) 02-11-2009, 11:45 PM

Thanks Darren. I do have a Mighty Mite vacuum bleeder which should do the job, although you have to set it up for each wheel. Sounds like simply keeping the MC reservoir full while bleeding will push out all the old fluid, no need to take things apart. Sounds like a plan, first I have to rebuild the calipers!

Cheers.

**Tifosi** · #5 (**permalink**) 02-12-2009, 08:13 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Geoman

Sounds like simply keeping the MC reservoir full while bleeding will push out all the old fluid, no need to take things apart

**Tifosi** · #6 (**permalink**) 02-12-2009, 08:19 AM

Query:

How do you know you need to rebuild your calipers anyway? Is one or more hung up, sticky, frozen or leaking? Or, are you doing it to clean things up? (just curious, and no harm in doing so in any event, provided you do it right. And there is that peice of mind knowing exactly when the last time it was done so you don't have to worry about it again for another decade or so)

When/if you do, spook ye up the template that shows how to orientate the pistons when setting things up as they have an eyebrow looking ridge on thier face that's supposed to orientate a certain way dependant on what wheel its servicing.

If you don't, the brakes will still work, though they won't evacuate air between the pad and disc as effectively (likely something you'd never even notice in regular driving, but if you like to get out there and get things hot, you'll definitely be aware of it occuring) along with multiplying the chances of pad squeel by a really large amount, and the pads will actually start to wear a bit funny which will make more squeel yet. (basically the wrong angle, though they likely won't wear out any quicker than normal)

**Tifosi** · #7 (**permalink**) 02-12-2009, 08:26 AM

Link to the IAP page that has DL-able templates for the piston alignment.

**Geoman** · #8 (**permalink**) 02-12-2009, 11:57 AM

When I got the car, it wouldn't even roll. After getting it up on jacks I found that the front right caliper was seized and the pads were firmly seated against the rotor. Took a bit of persuation with a small hand sledge to knock the caliper off. I have yet to be able to remove or even move the piston. Need to try using a large C-clamp to push it loose. The rear wheels are also hard to turn by hand. I know that it's common for disc brakes to have the pads slightly touch the rotor, but it seemed a bit to sticky. And if one of the front brakes was bad, I figure it's not such a bad thing to check them all. I did see those templates and will definitely use them. I'll also make note of the orientation of the pistons when, if, I can remove them!

I also realize that the rear wheels will be harder to turn as it is also turning the axle and diff gears, not to mention the possibility of the parking brake pads causing problems. In fact I'm not sure how to get at the parking pads, they seems to be behind the backing plate which would need to be removed.

It surprised me at first that when I turned one of the rear wheels the other wheel turned, but in the opposite direction! I assume that's because of the diff gears and the lack of friction between the tires and the ground, as the car is elevated?? Correct me if I'm wrong. I have considered simply getting remanufactured calipers from IAP with new pads and call it a day. But that wouldn't be inexpensive and I would enjoy learning and successfully completing my first brake job!

**Tifosi** · #9 (**permalink**) 02-12-2009, 02:31 PM

The parking brake drum is built into the center of the brake rotor.
Literally a drum brake with shoes in there.

With the rear wheels off and the calipers removed, you remove the two screws in the face of the rotor hub and pull the rotor straight off the lug studs. (well, that's the way it's supposed to work anyway, but usually a lip worn into the drum ends up hanging on the shoes and you've gotta fiddle about with the internal adjuster to loosen the shoes enough to let the rotor go)

**Geoman** · #10 (**permalink**) 02-12-2009, 05:53 PM

Thanks Darren for the info!

**Tifosi** · #11 (**permalink**) 02-12-2009, 11:13 PM

Some pix scaved from a few different threads here and there in the forum:

Rotor installed, note the two screws in the face of the hub section.

Rotor removed.

'sploded schematic view of the p-brake shoes and associated guts. Note the adjuster (#8 on diagram)
If the rotor won't come off due to the aforememntioned lip on the drum hanging up, you'll need to back that adjuster off to get the shoes to move outta the way.
It's accessed through the not-screw-holes in the face of the rotor hub and a flat tip screwdriver is the tool of choice.

**Geoman** · #12 (**permalink**) 02-13-2009, 09:10 AM

Hey great photos...I guess a picture is worth a thousands words, and keeps me from bumbling around trying to figure it out on my own.

**Tifosi** · #13 (**permalink**) 02-13-2009, 10:56 AM

Just so's ya know, that adjuster thingy is at the 9 o'clock position on the LR wheel and 3 o'clock on the RR. (just as shown in the schematic, it's 180 opposite to where the cable comes in)