Spider operating temperature

RogerD · #1 (**permalink**) 06-25-2008, 09:33 PM

I've found lots of older threads on this subject, but sometimes not clear on the final word. So, I have a 72 Spider with Dellorto carbs. When the weather is cool and the road is flat, it runs with the temp gauge straight up at 180. Now that the weather is warming (finally) and we are having days in the 70s and 80's (not hot yet) if I'm climbing a long grade the needle pushes toward the 212, but never seems to get past about 200. Once I'm going down the other side, things go back to 180. Is this normal or something to chase down? If a problem, where should I start?
Thanks

Kilgore Trout · #2 (**permalink**) 06-25-2008, 09:42 PM

Normal, nothing I'd worry about.

davelgee · #3 (**permalink**) 06-25-2008, 09:58 PM

Problematic, something to check - IMHO
If you are not sure about the condition of the radiator/coolant, that might be a good place to start

Cheers!
Dave G.

**Zunige** · #4 (**permalink**) 06-25-2008, 10:09 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by RogerD

... So, I have a 72 Spider with Dellorto carbs. When the weather is cool and the road is flat, it runs with the temp gauge straight up at 180. Now that the weather is warming (finally) and we are having days in the 70s and 80's (not hot yet) if I'm climbing a long grade the needle pushes toward the 212, but never seems to get past about 200. Once I'm going down the other side, things go back to 180. Is this normal or something to chase down? ...

Kilgore Trout · #5 (**permalink**) 06-25-2008, 10:52 PM

I have to respectfully disagree. If the needle approaches 200 (or 212) under a heavy load, followed by a return to the 180 range afterwards, that's simply nothing to worry about. A 180 degree thermostat certainly doesn't guarantee a max temp at that level, that's simply when it opens to coolant flow. I've got several Spiders, series 2-4 in my garage, live in the deep south, and they all exhibit this behavior when driven hard (or in stop/go traffic, too). All their cooling systems are in top shape, and I've never had the issue progress to an overheat situation. Variables can include a non-original recored radiator with less capacity than the original, for example, but as long as the upward temp trend reverses, I can't imagine there's anything to worry about. Please feel free to clarify your assessment, if you feel the need.

**Zunige** · #6 (**permalink**) 06-26-2008, 07:01 AM

Nothing wrong in disagreeing... Quite the contrary, different points of view and sharing different experiences adds tremendous value to our various topics.

Regarding the operating temperature of a series 2 or series 3 Spider, it has always been my experience that the cooling systems work very well and the needle is steady in the middle position, and only goes up a hair above 180 degrees under load. I drove my Spiders daily and year round until 2004, through some very hot summer days, and heavy traffic in New York City, in 90+ degree days... In fact, last year one of my Spiders started doing what RogerD described: needle going up past the mid point but not up to the 212 mark, when under load. After checking all components, I had the radiator re-cored and the car went back to operating as it always did, with the needle steady in the middle position.

I will agree that going up to 200 and then coming back down is not going to hurt the car at all, and this has nothing to do with the thermostat. However, going up to 200 is an indication that the cooling system is not keeping up like it used to...

Best regards,

**spider4me** · #7 (**permalink**) 06-26-2008, 07:02 AM

Roger, if you do not have the rad shroud let me know. I have an extra one I believe from a 71 1750. When you get your carbs from Dan, might be a good time to have rad rodded out too.

RogerD · #8 (**permalink**) 06-26-2008, 10:37 AM

So , again, there is disagreement on what's normal vs bad. It seems to me that the symptoms indicate something wrong; the system should be efficient enough to deal with the extra heat from an uphill drive on a warm day. My guess is that the radiator is likely clogged and rodding out or possibly a recore might be needed.
Neil, I now have a fan shroud, but thanks for the offer. Haven't heard again from Dan on the carb/cam swap deal, but that woud be a good time to check the cooling system out. But I'd also like to get it taken care of before any really hot weather hits.

**Tifosi** · #9 (**permalink**) 06-26-2008, 11:49 AM

Clean the dead bugs and leaves out of the radiator fins lately?

RogerD · #10 (**permalink**) 06-26-2008, 01:05 PM

Sounds like a good place to start!

WindChill · #11 (**permalink**) 06-28-2008, 06:29 PM

My 87 Quad (silver) temp needle just started to only barely register on a drive. Cool weather today. Long drive 2hr. All else is fine. No overheating problems. Temp always right around 175 even on hot days. sending unit problem? Suggestions??

Windchill
1987 Quad

**Zunige** · #12 (**permalink**) 06-28-2008, 07:01 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by WindChill

My 87 Quad (silver) temp needle just started to only barely register on a drive. Cool weather today. Long drive 2hr. All else is fine. No overheating problems. Temp always right around 175 even on hot days. sending unit problem? Suggestions??

Windchill
1987 Quad

**PJN** · #13 (**permalink**) 06-29-2008, 10:37 AM

run my spider in phoenix, 110 outside, car temp. 112 with the air running, this includes stop and go traffic

RogerD · #14 (**permalink**) 06-30-2008, 08:25 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by PJN

run my spider in phoenix, 110 outside, car temp. 112 with the air running, this includes stop and go traffic

**PJN** · #15 (**permalink**) 06-30-2008, 10:40 AM

sorry, summer day in phoenix a 110. Driving my spider in traffic with the air going keeps everyone cool. The engine temp guage gets up to 212 and no higher with the air on full blast. Alfisimo says to expect the same with an aluminum radiator upgrade (210-212).
I redid the radiator, new water pump, and thermostate. used 50/50 mix and water wetter. without the air on the temp stays around 200.