Maybe you just need to add a relay if key won't run starter.

Here is a write up and picture I posted yesterdayfor somebody else:

http://www.alfabb.com/bb/forums/562957-post4.html

 

My starter works fine. The problem is much more complicated and involves the in tank fuel pump.

http://www.alfabb.com/bb/forums/spider-1966-up/7297-electrics-fuel-pump-no-start-blues-help.html

Does anyone have a DIY on the ignition switch?

 

The ignition switch was originally installed with a security bolt. The hex head is designed to shear off once tightened, leaving what looks like the head of a carriage bolt.

(stolen from Tifosi who didn't say where he stole it)

To access it, remove the column covers.

Then, with your head down in the footwell and looking up at the column, locate the head of the shear bolt. (the photo below is of a spare column - not installed in the car) It will will be slightly recessed and thus not easy to grasp (the whole idea behind a security bolt...). Some have been able to use a center punch and persuade it to unscrew (counter clock-wise) with a few taps around the edge of the bolt's head. Others use a dremel type cut off disc to cut a slot into the head and use a screw driver. (I first ran the cut off disc against a grinding wheel to reduce its diameter to about the size of a dime so it'd fit down into the recess and cut less of the surounding metal of the column).

IIRC, either way (center punch or screw driver in slot) you'll need to also turn the key to 'on' to release the steering lock and allow the shear bolt to unscrew.

The second photo below shows how to remove the actual switch from the metal housing. IIRC, you'll also need to remove the plastic connectors from the ends of the short harness attached to the ignition switch's wire harness. Make note of which wire goes where in the plastic connectors so you can re-install them correctly.

When you install the new switch, use a regular bolt of the correct length (an allen head screw should work well) and future replacements will be much easier. I doubt any crook will go to the trouble of removing the switch as described above...

 

Ignition cylinder removal question



Are you saying that I cannot remove that shear bolt without turning the key? What if I cannot turn the key?

 

These photos are not of the ignition switch but the concept of removing the spade connectors out of plastic harness plugs is the same.

Use a tiny screw driver to reach inside the harness plug and depress the tab then slide the spade connector out. When re-installing, bend out that tab so it'll engage a notch inside the harness plug.

 

If-n-when you get the switch replaced, and if you were just gonna toss it anyway, I'd take your old switch off your hands if you wanna give it up so I can scav it for tumblers and springs.

I've taught myself how to match a key and switch that didn't match before, (spider column switches only), and the more little bits like that I have around the less hand fabricating of tumblers I have to do.

 

I just replaced the switch in my '87 that had the 4 wire shorter switch originally with the slightly longer 3 wire version(the last owner had a NOS one in the trunk, thank you very much). If you want my old one let me know. Something is silly with it, whereas with the key out, if you press in on the tumbler where the key enters, the switch will turn to the run position. It wont start it, but maybe the tumblers and such are good. You're welcome to it.

 

Anyone actually take the switch part apart? Got photos?

If one could get inside the switch portion (appears to be riveted together) then maybe the electrical contacts could be cleaned/renewed to revive the old switch.

 

Anyone actually take the switch part apart? Got photos?

I've got one here that could be re-disassembled and photo'd to show all the component parts.

Those rivets you speak of I know I've seen somewhere before, so a replacement should be obtainable. Just a matter of remembering where and for what. (while looking at that bit before it 'almost' looks like there's room for a tiny nut-n-bolt setup, but I never persued it beyond that)

Gimme a couple days to dig it out, break it down, and lay it out in some sort of sensible order for a picture and I'll post it. (if I do it, it'll be the whole swtich, not just the electric bits)

 

I think IAP can order a switch for you. I had an issue with a switch sending current every which way on an internal failure, and they were gracious enough to get ne out a new switch in about 2 weeks. I thnk that the switch being used is a retrofitted Fiat switch, so there is a wiring remodeling that comes with the territory. The new switch comes with a new bolt, although it is not a security bolt as far as I can tell. I had posted a thread on the rewiring of the IAP switch on this BB, so if you do a search you should find it. Good luck!

 

Thanks guys. I'll order from IAP then.

 

Added this to the thread Alfisto Steve linked above. (same idea, just way easier to read)

 

Hi Tom. I found the thread about the switch I received from IAP. Read it over, and it gives the lowdown on the wiring that you WILL need to alter to get the switch to work... That is unless they have changed it. Good luck and keep us posted.

http://www.alfabb.com/bb/forums/spi...b/forums/spider-1966-up/41427-iap-ignition-switch-arrived-wiring-questions.html

 

Just to add some trivial info to the above:

That's one of the differences between the short barrel (early S3) and the long barrel (late S3 and beyond)

The short barrel still carried the wire and circut for an external ballast resistor, which was eliminated as a seperate item and built into the L-jet coil, while the long barrel did away with the circut all together. (as it was in the coil already, it became redundant by the time they worked up the monopod harness layout)

One switch had 3 wires, the other 4, and even the underdash harness had different receivers/plugs to accept them.

You can make either work with the coil internal ballast resistor by shuffling a wire on the late switch, but I imagine it would be tough to make the late switch work with an external ballast resistor. (moot point, unless you were trying to adapt it in to a pre-82 car)

 

Darren,

Where are you located? Northern NY can mean many places to many folks. I'm near Syracuse.

Tom

 

Watertown.

 

Fellow BBer ossodiseppia has some igntion switches for sale here.

 

Thank you.
PM sent.

 

how long and how complicated is taking the ignition switch out?

 

It depends on whether it has been removed before or not.

Originally it was installed with a 'tamper proof' bolt - the hex head would shear off leaving what looks like the head of a carriage bolt - no easy way to unscrew it. If it has been removed before and replaced with a regular bolt then it won't be too hard to remove the switch.

If you have to futz with the tamper proof bolt it could add 5 minutes or 5 hours to the job.

 

SUBJ: remove and replace ignition switch

OK, time to tackle the next project - replace the ignition switch. More and more frequently, I would get nothing when I turn the key so I rigged a pushbutton and a switch to by-pass the key switch. With that, it starts perfect every time (so I feel certain it is the key switch). Strangely, this has also solved my mysterious battery drain condition (after a few days, the battery would not have enough to start the car - and it's a fairly new Optima).

As usual, I found detailed info and pictures (thanks Eric!) but I have a phillips head screw in place of the tamper-proof bolt (from PM, I assume). Fortunately, it will take the biggest phillips screwdriver I have so I can get some pretty strong torque on it without slipping out but it will still NOT budge loose. I have tried putting the key in each position to make sure it wasn't locking the screw in place.

Any ideas for the screw that won't budge? It's not rusted so I don't think penetrating oil is the answer. Can the steering column be unbolted and lowered some or will I likely have to remove it completely to be able to really get on that screw?

 

SUBJ: remove and replace ignition switch

OK, time to tackle the next project - replace the ignition switch. More and more frequently, I would get nothing when I turn the key so I rigged a pushbutton and a switch to by-pass the key switch. With that, it starts perfect every time (so I feel certain it is the key switch). Strangely, this has also solved my mysterious battery drain condition (after a few days, the battery would not have enough to start the car - and it's a fairly new Optima).

As usual, I found detailed info and pictures (thanks Eric!) but I have a phillips head screw in place of the tamper-proof bolt (from PM, I assume). Fortunately, it will take the biggest phillips screwdriver I have so I can get some pretty strong torque on it without slipping out but it will still NOT budge loose. I have tried putting the key in each position to make sure it wasn't locking the screw in place.

Any ideas for the screw that won't budge? It's not rusted so I don't think penetrating oil is the answer. Can the steering column be unbolted and lowered some or will I likely have to remove it completely to be able to really get on that screw?

 

Make sure the steering wheel lock is not holding pressure against the switch.

For more torque how about a short phillips bit in a socket? (lefty - loosey, correct...?)

 

Sorry for the double post - slow internet and I thought it timed out the first time.

Wheels are straight ahead and the steering wheel is not near locked position so I assume there is no pressure from there. Key should be in "on" position, correct?

I like the idea of a socket wrench - I'll try that. Thanks!

 

Geez, finally got it out. Drilled it to get the screw head off and then used the dremel tool to grind out the rest of the screw. Using a little mirror was a great help to see (so I wasn't laying directly underneath with all the metal filings falling in my face). Considering how difficult it is to get to, it actually drilled out easily.

The iginition switch I removed had two tiny gauge wires in addition to the actual ignition switch wires. I assume the ignition switch maybe had a light in it? Any ideas?

 

Those are related to the key buzzer on mine. They remain disconnected in my case.

 

In the for whats its worth department, I found it much easier (on my old 79 Alfetta) to just remove the steering column (marking return locations) and replace the ignition switch on my patio along with a margarita.

 

Please tell us how you use a margarita to replace the ignition switch. And how you then start the car...