Those numbers appear more than a bit low. Did you make sure the throttle was WFO while doing the test?
The tweak is with the VVT in there, and depending on if it's inertia or solinoid operated, you can end up with what seems like low numbers but that are perfectly acceptable due to whether the VVT actually activates or not. (an inertia type won't spin fast enough on the starter to engage, while a solinoid type may,
if there's adiquate oil pressure)
And then there's valve lash that can effect things too.
Cranking speed does have quite a bit to do with it also, so you might want to try and perk that up a bit before getting too worried about the numbers you're seeing.
I've heard 'safe' being anything from around 120-125 all the way up into the 150-160 and beyond range, depending.
Realistically you're looking for balance between cylinders before getting antsy about overall pressure. Basically even pressures mean even wear.
EG: your #1 is indicating it's the weak one by showing a 10-12% difference in pressure. The goal is usually 5-7% or less across all cylinders. (of course if you did #1 1st from dead cold
and you have a solinoid VVT
and oil pressure came up a bit by the time you got to #2 and the others.......)
Are you getting the impression there's far more variables involved than simply what a pressure gauge reads?
As to rev range type stuff, you do kinda have to work it like a motorcycle rather than what you would a normal car if you want to get anything out of it, though the S3's do tend to act a little better down low compared to the earlier versions. (not saying more powerful, just a bit smoother and more tolerant of revs under, say 3200. You still won't see peak power 'til around 5200 though)
'84 manufacture - '85 MY Spider Graduate 
Warming the engine will make a difference too. You can expect a lot of blue smoke from the oil you put in though.
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